Jump to content

RC 2" level issues?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Do you really have to retorque every 1000 miles like the instructions say to? That's every other weekend!

Posted

No. Maybe after the first 1000....but not every 1000.

 

 

Exactly.........It would really be a PITA to have to torque al lthe time. Same thing with a regular lift, just check and make sure everything it still tight somewhere around the first 1000miles after install and you'll be fine.

Posted

I read that in the installation instructions, made me decide against it. I really don't want to have to do that every 1000 miles. I also looked at the Tuff Country aluminum spacers. Their instructions said to retorque every 3000.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to check mine at 500 and then again after 1000 (1500 total). I figured if they are still torqued correctly the second time I check they should be good, if not I will keep checking them every 1000 miles until they keep torque.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Do you know the factory specs for torque on the ball joint and sway bar? What are the risks of over-tightening these bolts? If I did the install myself and got them really tight, is that a problem?

Posted

DO NOT pay to have this intstalled on your truck. it takes maybe 45 mins to do this.

Posted

I went to the dealership yesterday to get some stuff done on the truck. While there they did their usual inspection and they noticed that my upper and lower ball joints on both sides were shot. I checked them myself and they are bad. I've had the RC 2" level on the truck for approx. 30,000 miles. I can't say 100% that it was caused by the level kit, but I bet it was. The cost for the dealer to fix is $1,800. I will be exploring alternative options.

Posted

1800 for ball joints?

 

I know right. It was 850 for parts and 850 for labor. That price includes upper and lower control arms for both sides. I priced aftermarket parts and I can do it myself for around $250 + getting an alignment.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...