Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Replaced the cabin air filter today

 

bec8edd79ba95c93d6b4024673aa7fc5.jpg

 

Also cleaned the outside. Spent 2 hours on it and it still looks like crap. Only downside to being on a well, the hard water spots. Guess I need to detail it. Or just trade it in... [emoji23] [emoji23]

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Truck hit 60k on the way to work last night. Thing is barely broken in, but I do wonder what's going to break/go bad next though.

Posted

Just had a guy come over with a very puzzling problem with a 2004 Sierra. Kinda looks BCM related but.... He came to see me thinking he had a cluster problem but when I put my spare in, to work on his, my spare did the same thing. I'm no know it all so I'm asking you guys. All 4 small gauges don't work until you press the brake pedal, then they come alive for about 5 seconds. If you leave your foot on the brake pedal they keep working. You can pull the truck out of park without pressing the brake, dome light will only come on when pressing the brake. Rear backup lights don't work unless pressing the brake. Somebody here must have come across this before.

Posted

Sounds like the power wire to the tail lights from the brake switch is powering up the BCM or cluster somehow. Or it could be a bad ground to the BCM that's finding ground through the brake pedal switch when it's closed. Electricity can do some strange stuff ...

Posted

Topped off the cooling system with distilled water, only took a few cups. I believe the last time I filled up was possibly last summer in July? The minor leak at the water pump persists and it's still not worth the effort to replace.

 

I also added half a quart of oil a few nights ago. Oil is only at the halfway point at 2,500 miles.

 

Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk

Posted

Installed a new drivers side mirror on the duramax. Unfortunately I was stoooooooopid and forgot to order one with the integrated LED turn signal into the mirror. But at this point, who cares.

Posted

Not sure if I mentioned this last weekend when I towed the bikes to go riding but I always keep the truck in 4th gear with tow/haul activated so it's not gear hunting and I have some power on tap if I need it. Anyways, the coolant temp climbed slightly above the 210 mark which I though was odd considering they just flushed my system, replaced the thermostat, and also the radiator under the extended warranty. This is certainly not the heaviest load I've towed with the truck but I'm just wondering why it climbed up that far, considering its never left the 210 mark in the history of me driving this truck. Coolant was topped off too, weirdest thing.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Not sure if I mentioned this last weekend when I towed the bikes to go riding but I always keep the truck in 4th gear with tow/haul activated so it's not gear hunting and I have some power on tap if I need it. Anyways, the coolant temp climbed slightly above the 210 mark which I though was odd considering they just flushed my system, replaced the thermostat, and also the radiator under the extended warranty. This is certainly not the heaviest load I've towed with the truck but I'm just wondering why it climbed up that far, considering its never left the 210 mark in the history of me driving this truck. Coolant was topped off too, weirdest thing.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Maybe a little bit of air in the system?

Posted

Might just be that this thermostat runs a few degrees warmer that what you removed. Parts these days ain't what they used to be, even straight from GM. Tolerances vary wildly. Only way to know for sure would be to heat both the old and new ones at the same time, and note water temp (in a pot) when they open.

 

When my truck was still very new back in '09, I had my temp gauge go way over 210° on a long, steep hill. Was 93° outside, and I kept my speed at 45mph towing about 5,700 - 6k lbs behind me (trailer weighs 2k, plus a '89 S10 Blazer). Transmission also hit 210° - hottest I have ever seen it. As soon as I crested the hill, both temps dropped like a rock, indicating the cooling system was working like it should.

 

Some things to check would be cooling fan operation, and for debris on or in between the radiator and condenser. My money is on the new t-stat just being slightly different from what was in there prior. As long as the temp came right down after the load was lessened, I think it'll be fine.

Posted

Drove to work on my new fall/winter/spring setup.

 

Lt295/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on my old MB Gunner 6 wheels

 

 

 

 

IMG_20170218_123525721_HDR2_zpsigh8dfsf.

  • Like 1
Posted

Figured it was about time to fix an oil/coolant leak I've had for 14 years in the Grand Marquis, coming from the timing cover. 239k miles ... and just realized this thing had a plastic cam gear! I knew earlier 302's going back to the 70's had these, but I had some bad internet info that the '85 model was the last year of plastic, and that the '86 model year had the steel gear.

 

There was 1-1/4" of slop in the chain! Spec is 1/2"! Clock was ticking on that one, although I had the same car back in '00 that I ran to 258k miles and had never opened the timing cover. Never did water pump on that one either. Very well built cars, no question about it.

 

I was amazed at how dirty inside the engine was. Figured the FI plus my religious oil changes would've kept her clean. Guess I can't expect much after 31 years, & nearly 240k miles.

 

IMG_6923_zpsjljfzdsu.jpg

 

IMG_6921_zpsllwqjxfo.jpg

 

IMG_6922_zpsggjklje8.jpg

 

IMG_6925_zpsyblqylle.jpg

 

 

 

 

While playing with all of this, I happened to notice the start signal wire to the solenoid was broken in several places. 31 years of engine heat / cool cycles took it's toll.

 

Made me think of our modern rigs. Imagine a 1" thick bundle of wires that looked like this? YIKES! No way the vehicle would run. Would light up the ECM on the first key-on cycle ...

 

IMG_6924_zpsokd9fwch.jpg

 

 

 

 

Also, finally got a smoke machine! Wasn't the $800 unit I had planned to buy - ended up being 10x cheaper. :smoker: Could've built it myself for alot less, but I figured I'd throw money at the problem and just get it fast. eBay, FTW! :lol:

 

IMG_6917_zpspdxl98kv.jpg

 

IMG_6919_zpszum5r10o.jpg

 

IMG_6918_zpsnxqfwc1p.jpg

 

fullsizeoutput_843_zpsxz07ltor.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...