What did you do with your truck/shop today

[Jsdirt]

Take it from me, Daryl - do it ALL while you have it apart. So many times I've bitten myself in the ass trying to save a buck on front end work.

 

It sucks when you have to take everything (that is only a few months to a year old) apart again to replace the OTHER part that failed, which was ok at the time. Tie rods are easy enough to leave alone and change any time, but the rest of the front end (ball joints, control arm bushings, hub bearings) is a bit more work. It's a big hit to the wallet, but you'll be set for years, and only need ONE front end alignment.

[Jsdirt]

4 hours ago, Coby7 said:

......

 

Well I opened it up and found his boo-boo, cleaned that up to find that the speedometer stepper motor was bad.  Come to find out they use the same motors as the Ford Mustang 03-05 and I happened to have a few of these that were sent to me by mistake by a seller.

 

.......

 

 

Yeah, Ford bought Volvo for a time, ran them into the ground, then sold it again .. much like GM did with Saab (only that was worse).

 

Main reason Volvo's today are no better than any of the other junk for sale today. Back in the early 90's, they were some of THE BEST automobiles ever built in history. They used top-shelf paint and clear coat, along with the best metals available. They weren't the fastest cars out there, for sure, but they were the safest and most durable. Their heavy trucks were just as good, too. All went downhill in 1996 onward ...

 

Good you took a look at it, and it turned out an easy (and profitable) fix - those are the best ones. 

Edited November 7, 2018 by Jsdirt

[RyanbabZ71]

Update: spoke to the store manager yesterday and he agreed the damage was not acceptable. He is ordering a replacement wheel. Only thing that sucks is I have to re-ceramic coat the wheel.


Ryan B.

[rkj__]

Picked up some free red oak on the way to my father-in-law’s place.

 

I took all I could fit.

 

Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.sportscard.trade

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jsdirt]

Got my buddy's blown up OE 6.2 out of his '10 Camaro (I can never remember what friggin year this thing is - it's the FIRST year of this style, whenever that was ... '10 or '11). Looks like a lifter is ate up pretty bad. Can't see very good on camera, but the roller wheel is pulverized, and the skirt of the lifter around the roller is blown out on each side. That's what was making all the racket. Since he ran it so many times like this, all that metal is now embedded in EVERY bearing in the engine. Needs a complete overhaul.

 

We're going to tear this thing down soon to see what kind of damage we've got, besides the windowed lifter and debris in all the bearings. The plan is to rebuilt it, and drop it in a 80's Regal / Grand Prix / Monte Carlo /Cutlass, and make a wheelie-drag vehicle. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 12, 2018 by Jsdirt

[RyanbabZ71]

2010 was the first model year of the 5th gen


Ryan B.

[Jsdirt]

Thanks, Ryan. I can never keep that straight! I must've made 100 posts calling it an '11.   It's a 2010, then. 

[RyanbabZ71]

Mini Cooper trying to hide



Ryan B.

[StinkyCheese]

Changed the oil and filter as well as the external transmission filter.  Also heard my oh so favorite phrase "it's a dually, it rides just like a dually should.  Throw some weight in the rear end."  Yeah maybe the duallys you've ridden in but if it was normal I wouldn't be taking it to you dangit!  I think I messed up one or two of the new tires already.  Haven't even hit 1k mileage on them yet.  If I did then I'm definitely changing to a different tire when these go.  Seems pretty absurd one hit unloaded is enough to mess up a tire.  It rides acceptable at 85+ right now so I'll figure it out after my road trip I guess.  Hopefully tomorrow I clean the head light lenses and the driving/fog light lenses and maybe even a bath before I go to work.

[Jsdirt]

The tires could be defective right from the factory. Wouldn't surprise me at all in this day and age. If the shake or roughness started after the tire install, then one or all of them are defective. I'd see if there's any warranty on them and try to get a new set.

[StinkyCheese]

29 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

The tires could be defective right from the factory. Wouldn't surprise me at all in this day and age. If the shake or roughness started after the tire install, then one or all of them are defective. I'd see if there's any warranty on them and try to get a new set.

 

Should be a warranty on them.  They warrantied 3 of 6 on the last set and they had 38k on them.  I'm just going to have to find another place that does road force balancing, or another shop period for that matter.

 

 

Anyone have a pretty big drop in their OLM?  I changed the oil this morning and it's already at 89% with only 39 miles driven.  Maybe 10-15 minutes of idle between checking for leaks, checking trans fluid level, and auto start to cool truck off walking to the truck from work.  At that rate I won't make it out of Florida before it needs to be changed again. 

Edited November 14, 2018 by Chevyguy85

[Jsdirt]

Might need to switch brands.  What brand are they? 

 

I'm not totally sold on road force balancing, unless tires today are so crappy when they leave the factory that this is the only way they will roll straight and true ...

 

I pay no mind to my OLM - never have as far as oil changes go, but I've noticed it will drop fast on short trips, and in the winter. I run Amsoil Signature Series, and change it every 18 months or 8k miles. Usually I'll dump it due to age, rather than miles.  I think the OLM was designed for conventional oil, so that GM could ensure an engine failure not long after 100k miles, and people would run right back to the dealer for either a $10,000 engine, or to trade the thing in for the next rolling extortion device. Anyone that changes oil based on that, running conventional oil, is just asking for trouble. I've changed my oil at 9,900 miles once, and still had life left on the monitor! Imagine doing that on dealer oil ... (CRINGE).

[StinkyCheese]

I run 15w40 and change 4-8k.  If I towed more or lived in a colder climate I'd consider going synthetic but doubling the cost of 10 quarts isn't something I plan on doing anytime soon.  15w40 worked just fine last year in low the 20s when I was in VA and I don't see why it won't work well next week when I'm up there again.  I had about 4k when I changed this morning and I think OLM was down to 25%.  Michelins are what I went with again.  So I guess I'll try something else next time, or go back to the old M/S instead of these Defenders.

[kstruckcountry]

Might need to switch brands.  What brand are they? 
 
I'm not totally sold on road force balancing, unless tires today are so crappy when they leave the factory that this is the only way they will roll straight and true ...
 
I pay no mind to my OLM - never have as far as oil changes go, but I've noticed it will drop fast on short trips, and in the winter. I run Amsoil Signature Series, and change it every 18 months or 8k miles. Usually I'll dump it due to age, rather than miles.  I think the OLM was designed for conventional oil, so that GM could ensure an engine failure not long after 100k miles, and people would run right back to the dealer for either a $10,000 engine, or to trade the thing in for the next rolling extortion device. Anyone that changes oil based on that, running conventional oil, is just asking for trouble. I've changed my oil at 9,900 miles once, and still had life left on the monitor! Imagine doing that on dealer oil ... (CRINGE).

My 2006 usually comes up at the 8 to 9 thousand mark, which coincides pretty well with synthetic.

I run AMSOIL XL for 10k and last oil change's analysis suggested moving up to 12k. Guess I'll try that on the next change. I don't think I could go back to going less than 10k, it's really nice.

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[Jsdirt]

Amsoil is great stuff. When I changed mine at 9,900 that one time, the oil itself was fine, but I had very high levels of wear metals in the oil, so Blackstone suggested changing it at 7k. I've been doing that the past couple changes, and the metal content is a little better. That's all due to this engine, and not the oil, as backed up by the analysis. I'll post a pic of the analysis from that 9,900 mile run below:

 

 

9 hours ago, Chevyguy85 said:

I run 15w40 and change 4-8k.  If I towed more or lived in a colder climate I'd consider going synthetic but doubling the cost of 10 quarts isn't something I plan on doing anytime soon.  15w40 worked just fine last year in low the 20s when I was in VA and I don't see why it won't work well next week when I'm up there again.  I had about 4k when I changed this morning and I think OLM was down to 25%.  Michelins are what I went with again.  So I guess I'll try something else next time, or go back to the old M/S instead of these Defenders.

Yeah you'll be fine with that, so long as the temp doesn't stay in the 20° range and you're using the truck daily for months on end. It would still work, but will be like molasses in the morning - would make the engine rattle for a few seconds at startup in those temps. If you're only there for a couple weeks, it won't hurt anything. If you did that every winter there for the entire winter, in a few years you could potentially wear some bearings out.

 

 

 

This particular analysis was after that longer run (thought it was 9,900 - it's 9,635), but it's in the history on the page there (those 2 prior analysis were on 5w-30 - I switched to 10w-30 to try and save this engine from a short life):

Edited November 14, 2018 by Jsdirt