Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Time to trade.

Only reason I'd trade in is to get an HD. That's why I'm not doing many modifications because it may end up happening depending on my needs

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Only reason I'd trade in is to get an HD. That's why I'm not doing many modifications because it may end up happening depending on my needs

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

d5f5fb203c524baf622722e08d86aecc.gif
  • Like 2
Posted

Stadium where the Green Bay Packers play

 

oh, football.

Posted

We got about 5 inches of wet heavy snow this morning. Did a bit of shoveling and had to go clear the walks down at 2 church buildings using an Ariens Pro 32 and a John Deere 1032 Snowblowers. (Ariens was awesome, the old JD was built by Murray and is a piece of crap but the Techumseh Snowking 10HP engine did well) On my way home, a moron in a Dodge Ram clipped my drivers side mirror with his passenger side mirror because he was too far over in his lane or was new to driving a big truck or something. My mirror will have to be replaced, cracked, broken. Just what I needed. He apologized sincerely, and I took a few deep breathes and told him he was forgiven and I took off. Traffic was backing up and I just wanted to get out of there. I have not been in a good mood lately and I didn't want things to escalate to the point I did something stupid. So yes, I'm probably out $200 or so for a new mirror. But oh well. $200 is better than a $20,000 lawsuit for punching the guy. Went to Dairy Queen, got me a peanut butter cup blizzard, and kept my cool. Tomorrow is another day. No guarantees in life. Shit happens. Move on.

Posted

Just repaired and refurbished a 2004 Gas HD cluster that had all of the problems that these clusters have.

1. It would kill the battery after 3 days of non-use

2. PRND321 display was dim when the cluster ever came on.

3. Cluster most of the time wouldn't turn on.

4. Half the bulbs were burnt.

5. Most of the stepper motors were shot

6. High beam LED dim lit all the time.

Took it apart and fixed everything, replaced all the motors and bulbs. He wanted OEM background color so warm white LEDs were used.

 

2017-01-17%2011.11.31_zpsnt3inu4v.jpg

 

2017-01-17%2011.25.37_zps3xu4pgni.jpg

Posted (edited)

A member PMed me for the polarity in the HVAC control panel so he could add LEDs to replace the burnt bulbs.. Might be a nice to know for some of you. The black stripe indicates the negative side.

 

2016-11-10%2017.21.17_zpssagjroao.png

 

2016-11-10%2017.10.49_zpsioruo5r1.jpg

 

2016-11-10%2017.23.57_zpsynl6xizb.jpg

Edited by Coby7
Posted (edited)

Still working on the Alero, in between other small jobs. Thing is becoming a royal pain in the ass.

 

Got the Time-Sert installed - that part is good. What sucks is, the lifter is acting like it's pumped to the max. Every time I tighten down the rocker arm, the clearance goes negative and hangs the exhaust valve open. Got down the lifter galley with a borescope - no debris in the lifter. Got a long, stiff wire to try and force the lifter to bleed down. Could see it moving within spec. Ground down on the rocker tip as a last-ditch effort. Didn't work. SOAB.

 

Out of ideas. Pushrod is clear of debris, nothing has changed height-wise with the rocker mounting. Torqued it down and fired it up without the valve cover. Everything is working fine, but that cylinder now misfires due to the hanging valve.

 

Been chatting with other techs. Was suggested to run it a bit and see if it bleeds down on it's own. I doubt it will be this easy. Nothing ever is these days! After that, next step is tear the whole damn motor down just about to reach the lifter, pull it out and inspect. It might have got damaged from running with zero load, and smacking into the camshaft.

 

Thanks for designing another winner, GM. I really appreciate it! :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

 

0116171548_zpsw184qc2t.jpg

 

0116171647_zpswvjlhwom.jpg

 

0116171654_zps5gawxoeg.jpg

 

0116171738_zps6rfnmrgm.jpg

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted (edited)

This morning working on a Hummer H2 cluster, it was dead when I received it, it now works but not 100% sure I fixed it. I will be switching it on and off all day to see if it fires up every time.

 

2017-01-18%2008.18.03_zpsrwj1juye.jpg

 

Just repaired a 2003 Tahoe cluster with the usual problems except motors were still good. Sometimes it wouldn't come on, sometimes it wouldn't shut off and kill his battery and of course the PRND321 display was dead. All the bottom bulbs were burnt so I LEDed it in cool white.
2017-01-18%2009.58.35_zpsukj3qbv4.jpg
2017-01-18%2010.27.33_zpsxieqdfu7.jpg
2017-01-18%2010.44.35_zpsd28ywr0o.jpg
18:30 Just finished a 2005 Venture 3 gauge cluster.
Edited by Coby7
Posted

Finally finished the Alero. Went on a 10 mile test run, then changed the oil when I got back. Fixed a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor, changed the bearing in the tensioner pulley (had to dremel that stupid plastic lip they put on there to get you to throw the thing away ... ), and replaced a burnt out 194 running lamp bulb in one of the rear tail lights.

 

She lives to run another day!

 

Quite the difference sound-wise from my last video, lol:

 

http://vid297.photobucket.com/albums/mm215/jjs05polaris/Forum%20pics/0119171315_zpsmvobrxpe.mp4

Posted

Today was a slow day, only sold and programmed a (22733524 ) to a 2010 Cobalt and replaced the 2 front speakers for him. Me and my big mouth!!!!!! Anyway he left happy but doing this outside was a bit harsh while he sat in the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...