Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I wouldnt go with anything higher than a 4.56, and many of the guys on here will tell you that they wouldnt either. I was going to go 4.10 because I was concerned about mileage too, but there are several people that said 4.56 gave them better performance and MPG than the 4.10s. Im gonna go with the 4.56 in mine because I dont like the idea of constantly running 2500 RPM in OD. That would be a happy medium between 4.88 and 4.10.

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I wouldnt go with anything higher than a 4.56, and many of the guys on here will tell you that they wouldnt either. I was going to go 4.10 because I was concerned about mileage too, but there are several people that said 4.56 gave them better performance and MPG than the 4.10s. Im gonna go with the 4.56 in mine because I dont like the idea of constantly running 2500 RPM in OD. That would be a happy medium between 4.88 and 4.10.

 

I'm guessing you're running the 4.88's currently? I know at about 70 mph with 3.73's my rpms run a little above 1500. Do you know what kind of rpm's it would run at the same speed with 4.10's?

Posted

Everything is retuned for tires and gears, yes.

 

Im debating on going 4:56.. I have 4:10,s now..but am going to run 35/36" tires

With a 5 spd allison I feel ill be ok, the cost is just alot on mine end with an 11.5" ring gear.

What was your original gear ratio?

Posted

When I said higher, I meant

I'm guessing you're running the 4.88's currently? I know at about 70 mph with 3.73's my rpms run a little above 1500. Do you know what kind of rpm's it would run at the same speed with 4.10's?

 

 

No, I only have the factory 3.42 gears at the moment.

 

Check out this calculator to get an idea of gear ratios and their affect on RPM.

 

http://www.novak-ada...dge/gearing.htm

 

When I said higher gear, I mean a smaller number. For exampler, 3.42 is a higher ratio than a 4.10, and a 4.56 is a lower ratio.

 

Persoanlly, with the 5.3, Ide try to stay around 2200 to ballance power with economy.

Posted

I'm running 88s with 37s which is appropriate per the generic calculators around. I was running 35sbefore and the truck was a beast...still is but not quite as snappy. Anyway my highway mileage didn't improve much but in town I went up a solid 2 mpg upon regearing. Those charts calculate size...not weight. They don't take into account the added weight of the tires let alone the wheels. They darn sure don't factor towing into the equation. I recommend you look deeper into this issue and check around the other forums, where these topics and the requisite knowledge is more prevalent. I'd say I was recommended 4.88 over 4.56 by 10 to 1. The off road shop being one of them. I'm no expert on this topic but I'm happy with my decision. As far as rpms o, the difference at 70 mph between 56 and 88 is like 200 rpm, which is nothing.

Posted

I'm running 88s with 37s which is appropriate per the generic calculators around. I was running 35sbefore and the truck was a beast...still is but not quite as snappy. Anyway my highway mileage didn't improve much but in town I went up a solid 2 mpg upon regearing. Those charts calculate size...not weight. They don't take into account the added weight of the tires let alone the wheels. They darn sure don't factor towing into the equation. I recommend you look deeper into this issue and check around the other forums, where these topics and the requisite knowledge is more prevalent. I'd say I was recommended 4.88 over 4.56 by 10 to 1. The off road shop being one of them. I'm no expert on this topic but I'm happy with my decision. As far as rpms o, the difference at 70 mph between 56 and 88 is like 200 rpm, which is nothing.

 

 

QFT

Posted

I also have another question. I got the truck at the dealer now, and was gonna have them do the work since I'll provide the parts. If they regear the rear to lets say 4.11's and I leave the front at 3.73's for maybe 30 miles to get it home, would it be alright, or will I bind something up even though its in 2WD? If I can do that, I can get a front differential from a scrap yard with the stock 4.11/4.10 gears in it and just do a swap at my house.

 

Cause I know if I buy parts to regear and rebuild the front diff. and have them do it they will charge me what they charge me for the rear end plus another couple hours to pull the diff. and reinstall it after it is done. Would like to get this answered so I know what my options are for getting my truck home.

Posted

You should be fine in 2wd, but dont ever lock it in like that or your transfer case will become a trotline weight.

Posted

I'm running 88s with 37s which is appropriate per the generic calculators around. I was running 35sbefore and the truck was a beast...still is but not quite as snappy. Anyway my highway mileage didn't improve much but in town I went up a solid 2 mpg upon regearing. Those charts calculate size...not weight. They don't take into account the added weight of the tires let alone the wheels. They darn sure don't factor towing into the equation. I recommend you look deeper into this issue and check around the other forums, where these topics and the requisite knowledge is more prevalent. I'd say I was recommended 4.88 over 4.56 by 10 to 1. The off road shop being one of them. I'm no expert on this topic but I'm happy with my decision. As far as rpms o, the difference at 70 mph between 56 and 88 is like 200 rpm, which is nothing.

 

 

I didnt realise you were running 88s. Does your truck have the 4 or 6 speed?

 

My thoughts were that on stock tires, a 3.73 gear suites me fine for what I do. Adding the 35" tire into the equation, to acheivethe same RPM, I would put 4.10s in. But since the tires were also heavier, I figured the 56s would make upt for that without having the engine scream all the time, since most of my driving is 70-75. What kind of mileage did you see with the 35s?

 

I dont want a dragster, but I do want her to be able to move out of her own way. The 3.42s I have now dont really bother me except for the fact that it will downshift at the slightest incline. She holds 60 pretty good, but 70 is a chore. When towing I just run 3rd gear which gives me a mechanical equivalent of 4.88s, which tows really well, but runs more RPM than Im comfortable running all the time. Maybe Im too old school and too used to the old SBC.

Posted

So just talked to the shop foreman and he was saying that 4.10's may not fit the differential casing and that the inside diameter of the ring may not fit the posi unit. I don't really believe him, cause I'm sure there are plenty of guys on here with a 10 bolt rear main running aftermarket 4.10 gears.

 

And I'm sure Randy's ring and pinion would know if I had to change anything. I was thinkn of going Yukon gears cause of their warranty. Anyone have success with these brand of gears?

Posted

Umm yeah they'll fit fine, if anything you'll need new carriers. Go to a different shop!

 

Z71 i was getting 14 in town but I was running large 35s and 20 x 10s. And that was optimal driving. Oh it's a 4 spd

Posted

Z71 i was getting 14 in town but I was running large 35s and 20 x 10s. And that was optimal driving. Oh it's a 4 spd

 

 

did you do the regear when you went with bigger tires or did you ever run stock gearing?

 

I can get a consistent 14.5, but Im wondering if it will go up or down with the 4.56 gears on the highway.

Posted

I ran the stock gears for years and got 11-12 mpg. But I'm rocking 10" of lift and a much heavier set of wheels/tires.

Posted

Umm yeah they'll fit fine, if anything you'll need new carriers. Go to a different shop!

 

Z71 i was getting 14 in town but I was running large 35s and 20 x 10s. And that was optimal driving. Oh it's a 4 spd

 

I was going to buy a Yukon posi unit for the rebuild anyways, so I'm sure their own ring will fit their own posi

Posted

I ran the stock gears for years and got 11-12 mpg. But I'm rocking 10" of lift and a much heavier set of wheels/tires.

 

 

I gotcha. Im just trying to guage which direction my mileage will go with the regear.

 

One last question (for now). Did you go straight to the 4.88s or did you ever run the 4.56?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...