Jump to content

Chit chat


SarahsGMC

Recommended Posts

Posted

I understand diesels might smoke SOME but the crap I saw at SL last year was flatbillers running smoke tunes, period. I've also ridden in some incredibly quick Duramaxes that did not belch any smoke when romped on.

  • Replies 9.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Ordered something last night for my truck to feed me some ear candy..... :devil:

Posted
Ordered something last night for my truck to feed me some ear candy..... :devil:

 

Details or ban. :lol:

Posted

Better be Corsa or DB if it's exhaust... If it is stereo, we want the details.

 

I got you Mike I already have is profile up ready to ban

Posted

:ughdance:

 

Swapping stock muffler for a SS Magnaflow 12909. Did a lot of research over past month and almost pulled the trigger on a electric cutout, but then read to many bad reviews of leaking/ and not holding up. So I wanted to go mainly more sound and possibly free up some power . Stock Stainless piping on mine is 3.5" so there was no reason to ditch that. This muffler should please my ears and possibly free some hp. Keeping resonator on at this point also to make sure there is no drone. This vid helped me..

Posted

:ughdance:

 

Swapping stock muffler for a SS Magnaflow 12909. Did a lot of research over past month and almost pulled the trigger on a electric cutout, but then read to many bad reviews of leaking/ and not holding up. So I wanted to go mainly more sound and possibly free up some power . Stock Stainless piping on mine is 3.5" so there was no reason to ditch that. This muffler should please my ears and possibly free some hp. Keeping resonator on at this point also to make sure there is no drone. This vid helped me..

 

 

I want to hear this when it's done. :D

Posted

So my ~410 doesn't. Damn I need a blower

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

 

 

How did you get 410hp out of a 6 Liter?

Posted

Its math. It could be anywhere between 400-430. It made 325 to the wheels on a shitty tune. Now it has been retuned and has more power. Never had it re dyno'd. This is using 20% for power loss. 25% yields like 430 HP. I used 20% because of 2wd. It could be lower. I need to have it redone on the dyno

Daryl NHT, on 12 Jun 2013 - 21:22, said:

How did you get 410hp out of a 6 Liter?

Posted

Its math. It could be anywhere between 400-430. It made 325 to the wheels on a shitty tune. Now it has been retuned and has more power. Never had it re dyno'd

 

 

Does it have a cam in it or anything else done to it for more power? I thought they were only rated 365 at the crank?

Posted

345 to the crank for my 6.0, I have the intake, exhaust, and tune. I won't cam it until I get a built tranny and stall converter

Posted

345 to the crank for my 6.0, I have the intake, exhaust, and tune. I won't cam it until I get a built tranny and stall converter

 

 

Ohh ok.

Posted

Smoke comes with any diesel he ran on the dyno and putting down that much power will cause smoke, I don't mind if people roll coal I just don't like cocky people that buy a diesel JUST to do that

No, no it doesn't. Properly tuned maybe give out a little cough but should clean up. My 500hp/950ft-lbstq tune from ATP doesn't belch one little bit of black. Smoke thru the entire power range is a sign of poor tuning. Guys running big tunes will belch a bit until the turbo lights it should clean up. Guys running smoke tunes are pure cancer, and ruining the sport.

Posted

Only power stroke I like puts down 1001 hp with spray (that's what it's doing on this dyno) belongs to a friend if mine ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370994124.099237.jpg

 

Im surprised chevyboy isnt here complaining about how bad his tune is with all that smoke.

Chevyboy? Where are you?

 

Meh, whatever...it's on a dyno. Probly running a huuuuge tune. Turbos take longer to light on a dyno, resulting in smoke. If it is sprayed early on it helps light up the turbos quicker resulting a cleaner tune. A 6.4 to make 1000hp would take Big injectors, big fuel pump(s) take those turbos out replace with 400series fixed geometry, forged rotating assembly, head work and a garbage can size NO2 bottle...

 

6.4 fords are by far the cheapest diesel to make fast. Straight pipe, CAI and a spartan 310 or 350 will put down over 600rwhp. Won't last long but tey will do it. And the tranny will hold ALOT longer than an allison.

 

.

Posted

Look up "max'd out" on YouTube. Or Idaho rob.

 

You'll see a 9 second Duramax that barely spits any smoke. Power has nothing to do with smoke.

Posted

And for all you halo headlight haters and big tire haters. Make all the fun you want. Ill still whoop ur ass sittin on 35's.

 

If ur not first ur last. :-D

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Needs a manifold gauge hooked up and the pressures read.   If you don't have one, time to take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.  
    • How rusty is the truck?     The transfer cases on these are an aluminum case.  If its anything like the rear diffs on the 2015-2022 Chevy Trax, those will corrode bad to the point it will push fluid through the housing via corrosion porosity or a crack from age/stress.    We have seen folks over tighten the drain and fill plugs on these transfer cases and crack them that way as well.    So I'd say its a 50/50 shot on re-sealing the case.  If all of the surfaces are good and its not badly corroded, they probably can re-seal it.  GM uses RTV to seal the case halves.   If they mention JB Weld, the issue is the case.  Be it a crack or corrosion.  JB Weld "might" hold if they clean EVERYTHING very well and drain the fluid out of the case and clean the crack and then seal it.      
    • A while back, my truck (2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3) went in for an o2 sensor and routine service. The tech identified that my rear output seal on my transfer case was leaking, and recommended I have them replace it. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and had them do the repair. Less than a month later, I noticed that the recently repaired seal was leaking again. I called the shop that did the repair and they warrantied the repair and replaced the same seal again. A few months later, I noticed that once again the same seal leak had come back. It wasn't a great time to bring it in and I ended up just living with it for 6 months or so, noticing small (smaller than a baseball) size oil stains below the truck when it would sit for a while, as well as oil spray on the frame (to the point where it actually took the underbody coating off in that one spot). Finally got around to brining it in again, but this time I took it to a dealership service center since I am in a different part of the state for school. They identified the same output seal leaks and recommended they replace them. They also said there was no scoring on the inside of the transfer case, so it didn't need to be replaced. They chalked up the original repair failures to non oem seals and a job that wasn't done correctly. Now they called and said the seals are holding after driving/sitting for a while, but they found a very small leak in the middle, that they recommended they seal with some kind of silicone/jb weld (not sure what they are using). I haven't picked up the truck yet, but I have been reluctant about this whole repair process because I feel like they are just fixing the same thing that keeps coming back, and I am concerned there could be another root cause for the seal failing. Has anybody else experienced anything like this, or have any ideas on other things that could be the root cause?
    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...