Jump to content

Normal Operating Temp Characteristics?


Recommended Posts

Posted

So, bought new truck last night (4.8 V8). Driving home today in heavy traffic. Temp gauge goes well beyond 210. Doesn't quite hit 235, but it was still concerning. Then it would go down. Then back up. It seems like the fans were waiting too long to kick on. Is the temperature exceeding 210 normal for these? My 04 1500 had belt driven fan. That temperature gauge stayed at 190 like a rock. I couldn't believe that I was seeing this thing go past 210. Any ideas (basically, does yours do this?)

Posted

No, shouldn't be going over 210. I've had my 6.2 for almost 3 years now and it has never gone over 210. Take it back to the dealer and tell them to fix the fans.

Posted

My 2007 5.3 sits steady at 210. Never goes over.

Posted

No, talking about my new 2013. It almost seems like the fans don't come on until a little past 210. When the fans kick on it comes right back down to 210. Then it creeps back up (and comes back down).

Posted

Ah! I just saw your other post 2013 4.8, well here it goes, this is all from my personal experience with my very own 2011 4.8, now I have a 2009 5.3.

 

I noticed your new truck doesn't have a hitch, well it probably didn't come with a trans cooler either, after only owning my 4.8 for a few days I noticed the exacted same thing on my truck, took it to two different dealers and well they found nothing wrong with it. My current truck doesn't do that the fans kick on way earlier, it does have a trans cooler (external one), the point I'm getting at, is that I believe the load of the tranny is making the coolant temp rise, I remember the tranny gage in the dic read like 200 degrees f going through stop in go traffic in the summer and winter, and that's when the coolant temp would climb past 210. After owning the 4.8 with no auxiliary oil coolers and now having the 5.3 with auxiliary tranny cooler I noticed the tranny runs cooler won't go over 175 f Sorry for writing you a book but as a former 4.8 owner nnbs, I know exactly what your talking about your truck is fine, don't believe me go test drive another 4.8 through stop and go traffic and then let it idle, see how long it takes for the fans to kick on without the ac on. I also believe that on the nnbs the fans on the 5.3 and 4.8 are programmed to kick on at different temps.

 

It annoyed the heck out of but after much research I came to the conclusion that it was perfectly normal

Posted

Why thank you sir! You have put my mind at ease. I figured this was something to do with me coming from a belt driven fan in my 04 to this new fancy overly complex dual speed dual fan setup. Thanks man.

Posted

Yep, I came on the forums as well for some guidance, and a bunch of dudes chimed in talking about how they could idle their 5.3 with a towing package all day with the ac on, and the needle will never go past 210, well it's been mentioned here on this forum that the temp gage is nothing more than a dumby gage, it's not very accurate.

Take it to the the dealer I guarantee they'll find nothing wrong with it because there is nothing wrong with it…

Posted

2012 with 4.8 and trailer package, mine will go to almost 3/4 on the temp gauge stop and go / hot days, ect. before the fans kick in. Nothing to worry about, it's normal.

Posted

See the way I know that the fans kick on more often on my 5.3 then they did on my 4.8 is not by the coolant temp gage, but rather the tranny temp gage on the dic. 4.8 I would see the temp rise up to 200 before the fans would kick on, on the 5.3 they'll kick on at about 165/175.

Posted

Good deal. I don't have the towing package, but Hayden cooler has been ordered from Amazon. On my last truck I installed the factory tranny cooler. That was a huge pain in the ass. The shop manual says that to snake the lines on this one you have to take off the bumper and lower a transmission cross brace. Negative...I'll just go aftermarket and get a bigger cooler to boot.

Posted

My 2011 with the 4.3L V6 does the same thing, my temp gauge rides on 210 when it's up to temp normally. In hot weather if I'm idleing for a while (like stuck in traffic) my temp gauge will creep up past 210. Usually it will get nearly half way to the next line past 210 on the gauge and the fans will kick on. My trucks been that way since new and I now have over 58,100 miles, gm runs theses engines hotter to meet emissions. The highest temp I seen the trans is 197 degrees, I have the base W/T with no tow package so I have the trans cooler integrated in the radiator.

I've been thinking on wiring the fans to a manual override switch to turn them on at will, since the fans are computer controlled. Bad thing about that is I'm thinking that will cause issues with the ECM but I'm not 100% sure. The other thing I was thinking was adding a pusher fan on the front of the rad(looks to be enough room) that I can turn on during long stopped traffic.

Also going to be adding a sep. trans cooler, I do 90-95% hi-way/country road driving so I see very little stop and go an my trans runs cool. Still would like to lighten the load on the rad a bit.

Posted

You could get a tuner that will allow the fans to be programmed to kick on at a cooler temp, I've read about members on this forum installing an after market trans cooler and a fan with a switch.

 

must be the 4.3 and 4.8 that are programmed that way as far as the fans go, I was thinking maybe its to save fuel, although we've ruled this out as being something that is within the norm, I didn't like it one bit when I had the 4.8.

Posted

So, bought new truck last night (4.8 V8). Driving home today in heavy traffic. Temp gauge goes well beyond 210. Doesn't quite hit 235, but it was still concerning. Then it would go down. Then back up. It seems like the fans were waiting too long to kick on. Is the temperature exceeding 210 normal for these? My 04 1500 had belt driven fan. That temperature gauge stayed at 190 like a rock. I couldn't believe that I was seeing this thing go past 210. Any ideas (basically, does yours do this?)

Did you check all the hose clamps? Any leaks? Coolant reservoir full?

 

Wouldn't be the first car coming of the line leaking a little coolant due to a loose connection.

 

But anyway, a little higher temp in stop and go traffic is normal.

 

 

so long

j-ten-ner

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...