2014+ Suspension Lifts

jd173706 · September 27, 2017

Hey guys, forgive me for not reading 256 pages of entries to try and find the specific answer I'm looking for, I read about 35 pages before giving up, if there is a way to search a thread please enlighten me as I have not yet found it. In fact, I need to play around with this website some more anyways, because it is kinda difficult to navigate for a newbie like me.

Anyway, here is my question. I have a 2014 Silverado LT 2wd with a 2" level kit I installed myself 25,000 miles ago. No issues or anything but I just really want to give it a little more height. I have my eye on a 3.5" or 4" lift kit either from Rough Country or someone else, I'm not brand loyal (just want to get something relatively cheap). I am going to put it on myself so I don't want cheap parts, but I also don't want to get gouged which is what it looks like happens with most kits in this lift range that cost around $600-$700 for parts only (from a shop. Online I can find the parts for $150-$300). I mean, we are only talking about steel spacer blocks and u-bolts to hold them on in the back, new shocks and either spacers or taller shocks up front or a combination of the two. Some come with a new upper control arm for both fronts. Some come with an under-shock spacer, some come with an on-top-of-shock spacer, some have both. How is it possible that a couple steel blocks and some bolts can cost $700?

My question is this; I went to a shop today asking about prices and the guy told me my steering geometry would be messed up with a 4" spacer kit, and that I couldn't do a Bilstein 5100 shock on the highest setting with a shock spacer beneath it and the control arm. He said it couldn't be aligned, would have drivability issues, and would generally be unsafe. Sounds like BS to me, but I am also no expert so I wanted to ask your opinion. Also, does the upper control arm need to be replaced if I already have the forged/cast steel control arms? I thought that was only for the trucks that had aluminum arms? This guy also told me I would NOT be able to run stock wheels anymore with this 4" kit, because the stock wheel would rub the control arms after lift. That sounds like BULLS**T. Whats the real deal with steering geometry, spacers, 5100's, and all that?

Sorry I wrote a book. I tried to be as concise as possible

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

-Joe

Edited September 27, 2017 by jd173706

Irby1757 · September 27, 2017

Hey guys, forgive me for not reading 256 pages of entries to try and find the specific answer I'm looking for, I read about 35 pages before giving up, if there is a way to search a thread please enlighten me as I have not yet found it. In fact, I need to play around with this website some more anyways, because it is kinda difficult to navigate for a newbie like me.

Anyway, here is my question. I have a 2014 Silverado LT 2wd with a 2" level kit I installed myself 25,000 miles ago. No issues or anything but I just really want to give it a little more height. I have my eye on a 3.5" or 4" lift kit either from Rough Country or someone else, I'm not brand loyal (just want to get something relatively cheap). I am going to put it on myself so I don't want cheap parts, but I also don't want to get gouged which is what it looks like happens with most kits in this lift range that cost around $600-$700 for parts only (from a shop. Online I can find the parts for $150-$300). I mean, we are only talking about steel spacer blocks and u-bolts to hold them on in the back, new shocks and either spacers or taller shocks up front or a combination of the two. Some come with a new upper control arm for both fronts. Some come with an under-shock spacer, some come with an on-top-of-shock spacer, some have both. How is it possible that a couple steel blocks and some bolts can cost $700?

My question is this; I went to a shop today asking about prices and the guy told me my steering geometry would be messed up with a 4" spacer kit, and that I couldn't do a Bilstein 5100 shock on the highest setting with a shock spacer beneath it and the control arm. He said it couldn't be aligned, would have drivability issues, and would generally be unsafe. Sounds like BS to me, but I am also no expert so I wanted to ask your opinion. Also, does the upper control arm need to be replaced if I already have the forged/cast steel control arms? I thought that was only for the trucks that had aluminum arms? This guy also told me I would NOT be able to run stock wheels anymore with this 4" kit, because the stock wheel would rub the control arms after lift. That sounds like BULLS**T. Whats the real deal with steering geometry, spacers, 5100's, and all that?

Sorry I wrote a book. I tried to be as concise as possible

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

-Joe

If you want to go higher than 2", you need to get an actual lift. If you do that, you need to get a good brand that will retain your angles as close to stock as possible. Look at BDS, Zone (BDS owns Zone), or Pro Comp. They both offer a 4" lift. You do have to have a certain back spacing depending on which size rim you have.

You can also use the search bar at the top and type in 4" lift and it will bring up multiple threads.

I would suggest going to a dealership that has a 4" and 6" lifted truck and compare them to yours. I have said this several times since I had my lift installed, but it helped a lot.

jd173706 · September 27, 2017

If you want to go higher than 2", you need to get an actual lift. If you do that, you need to get a good brand that will retain your angles as close to stock as possible. Look at BDS, Zone (BDS owns Zone), or Pro Comp. They both offer a 4" lift. You do have to have a certain back spacing depending on which size rim you have.

You can also use the search bar at the top and type in 4" lift and it will bring up multiple threads.

I would suggest going to a dealership that has a 4" and 6" lifted truck and compare them to yours. I have said this several times since I had my lift installed, but it helped a lot.

Thanks for the quick reply. That's what I mean though, if you look at what comes with a 4" lift usually it doesn't even include front shocks. The stock coilovers are reused, and there is a spacer that goes on top of the spring or underneath the shock on top of the lower control arm. Sometimes it includes a new upper control arm, but they look identical to stock. I am wondering if the ball joint is at a different angle on the replacement ones, to allow for the steeper angle on the control arm since it retains the stock mounting location on the truck body?

Then in the rear, it's just steel spacer blocks that go between the axle tube and the leaf springs. That's why I thought I should be able to accomplish what I want to do with just 5100's in front and my current leveling spacers, then taller blocks for the rear. Is there more that I am not taking into consideration? (I am fairly experienced as a DIY mechanic, and I have replaced the entire front suspension including all bushings, control arms, and ball joints on several vehicles. I have had the front end of this truck apart already as well, though that was just for the level kit.)

Thanks.

Edited September 27, 2017 by jd173706

jd173706 · September 27, 2017

For example, here is a cheap 3.5" kit for $200 that includes front spacers, and rear spacer blocks with longer u-bolts to hold them together.

http://supremesuspensions.com/product/2007-2016-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-1500-full-suspension-lift-kit-2wd-4wd/

I know the brand may not be top of the line, but frankly for what you're buying the quality of the materials is the only real concern, and there should only be compression forces on the parts anyway so I don't see what the risk would be.

Irby1757 · September 27, 2017

Sent you a PM with some information.

For example, here is a cheap 3.5" kit for $200 that includes front spacers, and rear spacer blocks with longer u-bolts to hold them together.

http://supremesuspensions.com/product/2007-2016-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-1500-full-suspension-lift-kit-2wd-4wd/

I know the brand may not be top of the line, but frankly for what you're buying the quality of the materials is the only real concern, and there should only be compression forces on the parts anyway so I don't see what the risk would be

jimmyboy8301 · September 27, 2017

The RCX 3.5” is a glorified leveling kit NOT a lift and will leave you with bad BJ and TRE angles. And you DEFINITELY can’t stack anything on top of that. If you want a 4” lift look into BDS or Zone.

2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L

4.5" Zone

22x10 AF Grips

33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Instagram @wildchevys

jd173706 · September 27, 2017

Thanks, Irby1757 helped with some additional information. I wasn't considering the kits I saw were not true lifts. For 4" is there a true lift available though? Can you really not run stock wheels after?

Edited September 27, 2017 by jd173706

Csjumper2003 · September 27, 2017

This^^^^^^^^

There are many types of lifts. I went with a 6.5” zone lift.

The spindle is the difference in the upper control arms. That is why some state steel or aluminum.

When you lift it brings the wheels in some. To run stock rims at minimum you would need spacers. Not something I condone as spacers in my opinion are a weak point on the hub. You can run a 2” spacer on 5100s but as the Shop told yoh it isn’t safe and the angles for this much lift without a drop bracket would not be advisable.

You mentioned some spacers and blocks, but understand you can just take and make a cast iron block or wipe up some spacers for the top of the tower. All of that in a true lift kit is made to a specific spec to keep all of your angles in spec and proper geometry for the Truck.

Cheap isn’t always good and when you have a 50 000 Truck do you really wanna skimp on a 1000 dollar lift? Bds and zone and pro Comp all have a guarantee that they put to make sure if there is an issue and they are to blame for their geometry being off they will cover what was damaged.

Another reason the kit is worth the extra money.

I bought my kit and had it installed locally and I didn’t pay attention that when the shop ordered it that there was an attention note that stated to use add a leaf with lift for crew cabs. So I had to order that separate but me and the Shop worked it out and my 6.5 lift is level and quality. One thing I didn’t want to worry about trying to save a couple bucks. The quality speaks for itself.

It comes down especially when you are 4wd that the cv angles will bind trying to reach anywhere close to 4”. That is why people are telling you to get a true lift so all angles will be in spec. And cvs remain straight.

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Edited September 27, 2017 by Csjumper2003

jimmyboy8301 · September 27, 2017

Thanks, Irby1757 helped with some additional information. I wasn't considering the kits I saw were not true lifts. For 4" is there a true lift available though? Can you really not run stock wheels after?

give the Zone 4.5” and BDS 4” a good look, both great kits. As for running stock wheels it depends on your Control arms.

2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L

4.5" Zone

22x10 AF Grips

33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Instagram @wildchevys

Csjumper2003 · September 27, 2017

It depends on the spindle. The knuckle will bring tire in and without spacer or better offset rim they will 100 percent run on stock with zone and bds for sure

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jd173706 · September 27, 2017

Thanks guys. I understand now what I didn't before, I thought spacers were the accepted standard for 4"~ and lower, anything else was unnecessary, plus I thought if I'm just needing spacers how much can they realistically expect to charge for some machined chunks of aluminum and a few bolts? That's why I was mentioning cost, I just thought it was a ripoff from a materials standpoint alone. But I get now that you need the complete kits to keep stock angles, I wasn't understanding that before. Plus you gotta pay the guy who figured out the geometry and made the kit, so that justifies the expense. I'll go with a real kit, thanks everyone for your input. Now that I got that figured out, has anyone installed one of these themselves? I'm not gonna lie, it looks like a lot of work, but I just don't really trust any of the shops near me. I haven't lived here long, and I don't know who does good work, plus I enjoy doing stuff like this. Is it something that would be a major pain in the a$$ to do myself, or is it pretty easy for someone who has a little suspension work experience?

Csjumper2003 · September 27, 2017

Most of these kits are a 4 out of 5 difficulty. I’ve seen many get through it just usually took a lot longer. There is a couple small pieces to weld on and adjust as well.

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jd173706 · September 27, 2017

Most of these kits are a 4 out of 5 difficulty. I’ve seen many get through it just usually took a lot longer. There is a couple small pieces to weld on and adjust as well.

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Ok, good to know. Thanks! Would you know if either the Zone or BDS kits would require me to get new wheels and tires, because of the offset?

Csjumper2003 · September 27, 2017

Ok, good to know. Thanks! Would you know if either the Zone or BDS kits would require me to get new wheels and tires, because of the offset?

Both would as far as rubbing. A spacer usually 1.25 or 1.5 would bring stock rim out enough but can call zone and or bds and look at the website. It gives each rim size and offset needed. They can prob answer that question a little better.

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