Jump to content

4 or 6 speed transmission.......


Recommended Posts

Posted

The Ram and the Ford do the same thing. Every full size truck has the gear range selection so it's a non issue thankfully. I don't see how this is such a big deal. I put my truck into M4/5 every day for four years before I traded it. Worked just fine.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Some people are just never happy, or do not know how to properly use their vehicle.

 

Best of luck with the RAM.....

Posted

Some people are just never happy, or do not know how to properly use their vehicle.

 

Best of luck with the RAM.....

Thanks I'm going to Dodge dealer next week to look at few see what I want nothing is set in stone I'm going to look a few used ones in the premium used inventory but I'll always keep my old 94 Silverado so I won't be a complete Dodge only owner iv always like both Ram and Chevy. Just don't like my 13 I just find it very annoying having that transmission shifting so much don't be hatting on me about it.
Posted

Just put cold air intake on my truck and all I can say is wow!!!!! What a difference in power its unreal I'm going to do a MPG test tomorrow to see if I gained anything but this cold air seemed to already cure my constantly shifting problem but will take it for big long drive on Highway tomorrow night and really put it to the test if it doesn't constantly shift like it wasn't after my quick drive and if I gain MPG I'll probably keep the truck as MPG and nothing but always shifting was my only two complaints of the truck and if this C/A fixes that then I'll have nothing else to bitch about it'll be a good truck then.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

A good tune will help with power, and shift quality.

Iv decided to hold off on buying another truck so unfortunately I'm stuck with my 2013 for few more years. With the economy the way it is I don't think it's best time to dish $50 000 out for a truck right now with things slowing down the way they are here. And now with our new Priminister dumb ass Justin Canada is economy is really going to go to shit. So I might just buy an Edge power programmer for my truck I just really tired of the transmission shifting and the terrible MPG my 5.3 gets it terrible although that cold air intake really seem to help out good I think it and my duel cat back straight pipes with 2 3/4 inch pipe really let that 5.3 breath. Stock the truck only got 11.7 MPG at 110km/h and 7-9mpg city. ( @times I could litterly watch the fuel gauge moving) now I'm getting 13-14mpg with the exhaust and CA I think a chip will put icing on the cake.
Posted

I had a 09 Silverado with the 4 and now have a 13 with a 6 and HATED the 6 spd for a long time. I'd prefer the 4 if its available. I don't get any better gas mileage and I've heard about issues with some of the first few year of the 6 spd...but I don't know if that was rumors or just people that were hard on their trucks.

Posted

I've had both, but the 6spd was a 6.2L with 3.73 gearing. The 6spd was perfect with that setup.

Posted

I've had both, but the 6spd was a 6.2L with 3.73 gearing. The 6spd was perfect with that setup.

Yup it would be my 08 2500HD extended cab short box had 6.0 vortec and 373 gears and dam I could pull 16.9mpg on at 110 km/h my 5.3 struggles to get 14 on a good day. But I get if it had 410s it would be good on fuel I just don't use 6th gear anymore I only used 4th it actually gets better MPG in 4th then 6th mainly cause the 5.3 is a week mottor and doesn't have to torque to keep it in 6th with 342 gears thats my theory and the bad MPG is cause of all the constant. Weres the 6.2 and 6.0 with 6spd and 373s cab just per along cause they got the torque to climb them small inclines with out having to shift a million times there for more MPG cause the engines staying at a steady pace now that's just my opinion. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think the 6spd is a great transmission I think GM just put the wrong gears on behind them. Not worth putting 410s in cause my 13 will be traded in cash for clunkers as soon as this slow economy pics up. It's basically done already with olny 44 000km. Least cash for clunkers will give me $4500 for it along as I buy new truck.
Posted

Not sure how many of you have had "issues" with your 6 speed, but i can say that there's nothing wrong with my 09 5.3 6 speed. My truck doesn't up shift or downshift erratically either. What i did notice though, when coming to an incline and you push the pedal down slightly, it won't downshift. If you leave your foot exactly still on the pedal it will downshift, once you start to climb the hill. Just different than the 4speed i guess. Ive driven both and the 6 speed is definitely better. What the clunkiness is caused by is v4 mode. if you put it in m5, it disables afm and it wont clunk. My truck had a clunk if i had to stop abruptly to a standstill (which is annoying in traffic). Basically only clunking when going back into 1st gear. I changed all the fluids, and it still did it on abrupt stops until i tried the m5 trick, works fantastic now. Still getting good mpg's in v8 mode (around 18.5 to be exact). Hoping to get a diablo i2 soon so i can get 6th gear back. Anyone use the diablo i2?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Maybe it is listed because the denalis had the 6 speed before the regular models? Ryan

how did you get the l9h with z71 suspension? gm told me that configuration was never available because max tow has it's own suspension and the only way to get the 6.2l is with that suspension and tow package.

Posted

how did you get the l9h with z71 suspension? gm told me that configuration was never available because max tow has it's own suspension and the only way to get the 6.2l is with that suspension and tow package.

Whoever you talked to is a numpty. GM probably built more L9H trucks with 3.42 gears than they did with 3.73s even if you don't count Denali's. They had the Z71 available as well as the sport tuned suspension under code Z60.

 

Sent from a potato

Posted

My piece of shit 2013 Silverado z71 has the 6spd I just bought it cause it was on the lot and it was cheap. Not just Denalis come with the 6spd

Posted

My piece of shit 2013 Silverado z71 has the 6spd I just bought it cause it was on the lot and it was cheap. Not just Denalis come with the 6spd

After 09 all 5.3 and 6.2 had 6 speed

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 381 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...