Jump to content

LED Under Rail Bed Lighting

b1gted

By b1gted
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 399
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

block8head
block8head

Here you go...

electricchiken7
electricchiken7

I installed the after market ones. I tied them into my cargo lights. Great mod!!     Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk    

corwest
corwest

Just as a heads up: The junction box comes with a cover for the plug that these plug into. So I made my own plug out of the cover with a couple parts from other plugs i had laying around and sealed

Posted Images

Prdtrgttr Enthusiast

Prdtrgttr

Posted
Posted

Finally received the lamp kit and installed. Was a very easy process, and yes, the lights go on with the Cargo lamp button.

I have ordered another lamp kit as I want to install another set of lights at the front of the box. I will be sure to snap lots of pics!

  • Like 1
2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I didn't do as well as anthony, but I was able to score one of these kits from the same E-bay seller this morning for $60 plus $6 shipping, which is about half of wholesale. These will look great on my '13!

Prdtrgttr Enthusiast

Prdtrgttr

Posted
Posted

I love free trade...our kits list for over 150...I got a good deal on mine, 138 plus tax :nonod: ...and now I have 2 kits...I must really like Led bed lights lol

pezboy Enthusiast

pezboy

Posted
Posted

I didn't do as well as anthony, but I was able to score one of these kits from the same E-bay seller this morning for $60 plus $6 shipping, which is about half of wholesale. These will look great on my '13!

 

How are you going to install them? I'm asking because I would like these on my 2009.

2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted (edited)

How are you going to install them? I'm asking because I would like these on my 2009.

 

Since the inside bed walls are very similar between the two generations, the lights will fit like a glove, but will require drilling the mounting holes. Obviously, the wiring will have to be modified, since the kit plugs into the module by the spare tire on the '14's. I am going to use a door jamb switch from an older GM vehicle, and the lamps will illuminate when the tailgate opens. On the '14's, they illuminate when the cargo lamp switch is depressed.

 

 

 

Edited by 2013sierrasle
  • Like 1
pezboy Enthusiast

pezboy

Posted
Posted

Since the inside bed walls are very similar between the two generations, the lights will fit like a glove, but will require drilling the mounting holes. Obviously, the wiring will have to be modified, since the kit plugs into the module by the spare tire on the '14's. I am going to use a door jamb switch from an older GM vehicle, and the lamps will illuminate when the tailgate opens. On the '14's, they illuminate when the cargo lamp switch is depressed.

 

 

 

 

Gotcha. I was wondering if you would tap into the cargo light wiring or put a switch in the cab or bed.

2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I dont plan on leaving the tailgate down for extended periods of time, so the tailgate operated switch would work fine. If the tailgate is going to be left down for several hours or days at a time, then I would tap into the existing cargo lamp circuit.

Prdtrgttr Enthusiast

Prdtrgttr

Posted
Posted

Job 1 was to install LED lights in the factory holes. Was easy to do, but found that I wanted more light, so we purchased another Lamp kit...definitely not your e-bay prices :crackup:

Drilled in new holes for the front LED lights to sit...the photos should step you through the rest of it...

 

IMG_00001279.jpg

 

IMG_00001282.jpg

IMG_00001286.jpg

IMG_00001287.jpg

IMG_00001294.jpg

IMG_00001295.jpg

IMG_00001297.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...