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Posted

Putting on the rough country 2.5 and 285/60/20 duratracs. Whats everyone doing about the speedometer calibration. Talked to my dealer today and they said when they lift, or level trucks they don't recalibrate the speedo, but I call B.S. He also said if you calibrate it yourself with a programmer, it could void warranty because they don't know what was programmed, just know it was programmed. Anyone have any experience with this, thanks.

 

I used the Diablo Intune to fix my speedo

Posted

 

I used the Diablo Intune to fix my speedo

Its defiantly possible to do it, just wondering why the dealer can't or wont do it to customer trucks but will do it to dealer trucks before they sell them(im assuming they wont sell trucks with an uncalibrated speedo). Did you talk to the dealer about using the Diablo intune at all?

Posted

Its defiantly possible to do it, just wondering why the dealer can't or wont do it to customer trucks but will do it to dealer trucks before they sell them(im assuming they wont sell trucks with an uncalibrated speedo). Did you talk to the dealer about using the Diablo intune at all?

 

Nope. I don't use dealers for anything ever. Never had a good experience with a dealer of any brand (GM, VW, Acura, Audi, Jeep of Mazda). I won't even take my truck in for the 'free' oil changes, I'd rather pay for the oil and do it myself then have a dealer get their hands on my truck. I take all my vehicles to one mechanic thats a personal friend that I've known for 15 plus years when I'm really in a bind.

Posted (edited)

Wow. Seems to me that every new vehicle needs some sort of warranty work.

 

So you just pay your friend for all that and provide your own alternate transportation (loaner car/truck), and have your friend work on a $50000 proprietary computer chip?

Edited by austingta
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Wow. Seems to me that every new vehicle needs some sort of warranty work.

 

So you just pay your friend for all that and provide your own alternate transportation (loaner car/truck), and have your friend work on a $50000 proprietary computer chip?

 

 

I have multiple cars so I don't usually need a loaner. I've also never had a 'proprietary computer chip' problem in any car and every car I've ever owned has had some sort of programmer or chip tune done to it.

 

 

Some 'warranty claims' I've had over the years would include.

 

99' Audi A4 - Battery died and also killed the alternator. Towed it to my buddies indy shop, repaired, sent Audi the bill and was reimbursed. (40k miles on chip tune no issues)

 

'05 VW Jetta - HVAC lights went out. Took the car to the dealer, showed them what was going on, got a new HVAC unit free of charge and replaced it myself. (70k miles on a chip tune, no issues)

 

'07 Acura TL-S - Alternator went on me. Towed it to my buddies indy shop to diagnose, sent the bill to my dealer and they covered it. Also had a starter go bad on this car. Same process. (90k miles on programer, no issues)

 

'09 Jeep Commander - Starter went bad, towed it to the dealer and they agreed it was a starter. They gave me the part and I replaced it in the parking lot and drove home. (30k miles chip tune no issues)

 

'07 Trailblazer SS - Tire pressure sensors went bad. Given free replacements by the dealer, replaced at my indy shop. (50k miles chip tuned, no issues)

 

'07 Audi RS4 - 3rd gear syncro went bad. Had it replaced at my buddies shop, reimbursed by Audi. Power steering line was leaking, diagnosed by my buddies shop, parts provided free by the dealer, replaced them myself. (25k miles chip tune, 10k miles supercharged, no issues)

 

 

So no, I'm not worried about the programmer for my larger tires on this truck (to bring this back around to the topic at hand, sorry)

Edited by Flying Tomatoes
Posted

Is the leveling kit mess with the warranty I have the same problem with my 1014 silverado just to low in the front not good on a off road truck when your trying to hunt

Posted

I just installed a rough country 2" kit in my 2014 this morning. Both sides, the holes in the spacer were not drilled wide enough apart to match the spacing of the lower control arm. They were close, about 1\4 hole off, so was able make work, but what a pain. I called RC to make sure I ordered right part number, they said 1308 was correct for my truck. Has anyone else had this problem? I install RC level kit on my 2011 sierra and a Tahoe and had zero problems.

Posted

I too installed the RC 2 inch kit on my 2014 GMC Sierra and didn't have any issues with the hole spacing in the spacers or the length of the bolts as others have reported. I have about 2000 miles on the truck since the install and so far I'm very happy with the results and ride.

Posted (edited)

Sorry it's a 2014 silverado and does the kit mess with the warranty I'm new at this

 

It would only come into a warranty issue if you had a claim for something related to the suspension that might have been caused by the installation of this part. Premature wear-out of the ball joints comes to mind, since this is the same suspension as the 1500 GMT900 (2007-2013) and that model was reported by members here to be affected by these leveling kits.

 

So, no. Your overall truck warranty cannot be cancelled or voided due to modifying the truck. A claim may only be denied based on the effect your modification had on the claim you are making. If your electrical system malfunctions, a leveling kit would not play into a claim nor denial of a claim. But a claim for something like tires wearing weird might likely be denied by the dealer/GM.

 

Various dealers do their own modifications like lifting and leveling, big tires, brush guards, lights, etc.. The dealer usually provides their own warranty for such mods, independent of GM.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

Its defiantly possible to do it, just wondering why the dealer can't or wont do it to customer trucks but will do it to dealer trucks before they sell them(im assuming they wont sell trucks with an uncalibrated speedo). Did you talk to the dealer about using the Diablo intune at all?

Most of the time (not in all cases) when a dealer does a lift they sub it out to someone like 4 wheel parts or some other outfit. If the lift causes damage the GM warranty doesn't fix it. They go to the lift manufacturer or the outfit that accessorized the truck.

Posted

Question for people with a 2-2.5" level kit -> I'm looking to install the 2.25" Ready Lift Kit in the front and the 1" block kit in the rear and was wondering if 33's would have any rubbing issues with the OEM Chevy moulded mud flaps? Don't really want to install them and then have to remove them later because they require drilling. Any help would be great.

 

Jason

Posted (edited)

Question for people with a 2-2.5" level kit -> I'm looking to install the 2.25" Ready Lift Kit in the front and the 1" block kit in the rear and was wondering if 33's would have any rubbing issues with the OEM Chevy moulded mud flaps? Don't really want to install them and then have to remove them later because they require drilling. Any help would be great.

 

Jason

 

 

The 33" is the most commonly installed oversize diameter on this forum. I don't know how the mud flaps might be affected by O/S tires. I'm using a 12.50x33x18 on the factory rim and did so initially with no level/lift at all and had no rubbing at full steering lock using the OEM 18x8.5, 5.5" backspace rim. I currently run King shocks with about 1 1/2-2" lift in the front, with the same tire/wheels and have no rubbing. It's all about the combinations of wheel offset and tire size. I think the factory wheel offsets are close to ideal for facilitating the maximum width/dia tires you can stuff in the well at the "0" to minor lifts.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

 

 

The 33" is the most commonly installed oversize diameter on this forum. I don't know how the mud flaps might be affected by O/S tires. I'm using a 12.50x33x18 on the factory rim and did so initially with no level/lift at all and had no rubbing at full steering lock using the OEM 18x8.5, 5.5" backspace rim. I currently run King shocks with about 1 1/2-2" lift in the front, with the same tire/wheels and have no rubbing. It's all about the combinations of wheel offset and tire size. I think the factory wheel offsets are close to ideal for facilitating the maximum width/dia tires you can stuff in the well at the "0" to minor lifts.

Thanks spurshot. I've seen a couple of pictures on here of people with mud flaps and O/S tires and so far from what I can tell I think they would be alright. If you can run 33's without any leveling that makes me feel a little better about getting them installed.

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