Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bare with me...I'm new here. I wanted to post a few pics since this forum has helped me figure out what I wanted to go with. Hopefully, this will help someone else out. I was looking to level my front end without giving up any ride quality, as well as get a little bit bigger tire without losing any gas mileage. I wanted to/and will eventually go with a 295/55, but going from about 42 lbs per tire to about 61 lbs per tire seemed like a big jump. I was going to get a programmer, but I read that with these newer trucks, the dealership can tell if you had programmed it, even if you programmed back to stock, and it could void the warranty. So, I decided I'll wait until my warranty is up before I go with a heavier tire and a programmer. I went with the Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Ride Height Shocks at highest setting (about 1.86) and 275/60 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on stock 20x9 GMC Wheels. The tires are not an LT, but are an XL, which means they are a 4-ply tire with an extra load rating. They ride about the same as the tires that came on the truck and are the same weight. I do a lot of highway driving with very little off road driving or towing, so I was ok with not going to an LT tire. As far as the 5100's go, couldn't be happier. I read that the ride would be stiffer, but better. Didn't understand what that would feel like until I drove it. Much better...no more bounce. Even my wife thinks it rides better. No rub at all.

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

FYI. I just got off the phone with Jeremy at Zone and he told me that they will be coming out with a kit for the 2016 models but it is different from the 2014-2015 C9151 Zone 1.5" BL Kit. He said the bolts should be different and the parking brake bracket will be different and the new kit should be available "soon". That was the best he could offer me.

Yeah, the pass through for the E-brake cable needed to be cut out a little more than the instructions say, but it wasn't a big deal.

Posted

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I went from Black to this and I love it!

Posted (edited)

Sorry Bad pic quality

 

2016 Z71 Double Cab

2.5in RC Leveling Kit With 2in Rear Block

Fuel Anza's 20x9 +20 Offset

BFG KO2 275/60/20

Magnum Rack With Lights

 

No rubbing or trimming

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

Edited by CraftsZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Posted

I hate to ask the question, but what do rear blocks do?

 

The rear blocks swap the stock 1.25" block under the leaf with a 2.25" block. Essentially lifting the rear end 1".

 

People refer to having added or not added the rear block because it's a common part in most level kits.

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire ?

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Who makes those fender flares?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Who makes those fender flares?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

You can order a new truck with them, or have them installed painted to match. I can't remember the name right now, but if you look on gm site, it is an option

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire and?

Still working on that. Getting alignment tomorrow, then gonna check what needs to be trimmed. You ca order the 20x9's and possibly a 305/50/20 tire that is like 32", but I wanted them to come out to th flares. The offset I believe is -26

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm also doing just the front but I got a 2.5" leveling kit. When I measured front and rear, I had like a 3 1/8" difference so I hope it comes out level. If not, I'll be ordering some 2" blocks. Plan on doing it this weekend if the weather is good.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 451 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...