Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

On CEL's, you always want the cleanside pulling in MAF metered air, so as long as you are connected downstream of the MAF all air is metered.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

gabekalp Enthusiast

gabekalp

Posted
Posted

Don't want to start a new thread and get a bunch of flack from all you die hard forum surfers.... been doing some slight browsing and some of you guys are posting pics of oil in the airbox/intake/throttle body. I have about 9500 miles on my 15 with no catch can, so I decided to open it up to see if it looks like some of your guys. Mine is completely dry with not a spec of anything in the throttle body. I have a 5.3 with out the flex fuel if that even matters. I plan to keep this truck well into the 170k+ mark, so in theory id like a catch can. But every penny counts for me at this point in my life.

brwk Enthusiast

brwk

Posted
Posted

 

I guess technically. If you suck in enough unmetered air, some sort of code should be thrown. I've never had an issue tho. All my connections are with screw type clamps too. They are all tight.

I smell oil and I have a hissing noise. The hissing noise, everyone has checked my setup and everything is as it should be. I'm also told that the hissing can be normal and don't worry about it if I have no codes. The oil smell, no one has addressed that. I have a "good " RX and I'm sorry, hissing and oil smell is not normal. Re-ran my lines with heavier hose and it did lower the hissing.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I smell oil and I have a hissing noise. The hissing noise, everyone has checked my setup and everything is as it should be. I'm also told that the hissing can be normal and don't worry about it if I have no codes. The oil smell, no one has addressed that. I have a "good " RX and I'm sorry, hissing and oil smell is not normal. Re-ran my lines with heavier hose and it did lower the hissing.

 

Are all of your fittings sealed well? You can unscrew everything off the can, clean the threads and reseal them with rtv or pipe thread.

det Enthusiast

det

Posted
Posted

I smell oil and I have a hissing noise. The hissing noise, everyone has checked my setup and everything is as it should be. I'm also told that the hissing can be normal and don't worry about it if I have no codes. The oil smell, no one has addressed that. I have a "good " RX and I'm sorry, hissing and oil smell is not normal. Re-ran my lines with heavier hose and it did lower the hissing.

I installed my catch can 2 days ago and heard a hissing sound and couldn't figure it out. after a long drive i looked again and saw the hose included in my kit was almost completely collapsed, so i replaced it with some really good stiff hose from a local performance shop. no more sound.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

No hissing on either the Mike Norris or RX catch cans I run

 

 

Ryan

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

Cold weather has returned

 

fb2e5d5340f50ddfdcd7ea71d244a2a2.jpg

 

 

Ryan

 

Only thing more gross than what the can caught is that sticker someone put on your truck haha

 

 

I installed my catch can 2 days ago and heard a hissing sound and couldn't figure it out. after a long drive i looked again and saw the hose included in my kit was almost completely collapsed, so i replaced it with some really good stiff hose from a local performance shop. no more sound.

 

I have a slight hissing but all connections are secured and pipe thread used liberally.There is a bend where the line when under vacuum is partially collapsed. 99% sure that is what my little bit of hissing sound is. Not concerned enough to replace the line yet, but surprised the line Elite sent would do that. Curious what kind of line people are upgrading too?

Edited by jrob56
RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

 

Only thing more gross than what the can caught is that sticker someone put on your truck haha

 

 

 

I have a slight hissing but all connections are secured and pipe thread used liberally.There is a bend where the line when under vacuum is partially collapsed. 99% sure that is what my little bit of hissing sound is. Not concerned enough to replace the line yet, but surprised the line Elite sent would do that. Curious what kind of line people are upgrading too?

I hope your not an IU fan

 

 

Ryan

moosehead1 Enthusiast

moosehead1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Don't want to start a new thread and get a bunch of flack from all you die hard forum surfers.... been doing some slight browsing and some of you guys are posting pics of oil in the airbox/intake/throttle body. I have about 9500 miles on my 15 with no catch can, so I decided to open it up to see if it looks like some of your guys. Mine is completely dry with not a spec of anything in the throttle body. I have a 5.3 with out the flex fuel if that even matters. I plan to keep this truck well into the 170k+ mark, so in theory id like a catch can. But every penny counts for me at this point in my life.

So all that duckbutter is going back into the TB and being digested by your engine.

 

See catch can disposal contents on virtually every Murican V8: GM, Ford, Mopar all show multiple examples of catch can waste/napalm/snot mixture.

Edited by moosehead1
jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

I hope your not an IU fan

 

 

Ryan

Wearing candy stripe pants right now ha

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Don't want to start a new thread and get a bunch of flack from all you die hard forum surfers.... been doing some slight browsing and some of you guys are posting pics of oil in the airbox/intake/throttle body. I have about 9500 miles on my 15 with no catch can, so I decided to open it up to see if it looks like some of your guys. Mine is completely dry with not a spec of anything in the throttle body. I have a 5.3 with out the flex fuel if that even matters. I plan to keep this truck well into the 170k+ mark, so in theory id like a catch can. But every penny counts for me at this point in my life.

 

Yes having the 5.3 does matter. You likely won't find oil on your throttle body because the inlet port for the PCV gases is located about halfway back on the driver side valley cover. On the 6.2, the port is located right at the top of the throttle body which is why those engines see a ton of oil there. Either way, your engine valves on the inside likely look exactly the same as a 6.2 or any other direct injection engine on the market without an oil catch can or that hasn't had any type of an induction cleaning service done. I would still recommend installing a catch can ASAP and consider doing a BG induction service every 15,000 miles.

  • Like 1
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

 

Yes having the 5.3 does matter. You likely won't find oil on your throttle body because the inlet port for the PCV gases is located about halfway back on the driver side valley cover. On the 6.2, the port is located right at the top of the throttle body which is why those engines see a ton of oil there. Either way, your engine valves on the inside likely look exactly the same as a 6.2 or any other direct injection engine on the market without an oil catch can or that hasn't had any type of an induction cleaning service done. I would still recommend installing a catch can ASAP and consider doing a BG induction service every 15,000 miles.

 

Well said Siverado-Hareek!

  • Like 3
amc019 Enthusiast

amc019

Posted
Posted

Not that I don't really enjoy reading 90 pages of information in one sitting, can anyone tell me which Elite E2-X catch can model I should order for my 2015 6.2? They have convinced me that if I am going to install one on the truck at all then I should go with their newest model for the best filtration, but I want to make sure I get the right kit. Is everything included for the instal on these trucks?

 

Also, with the E2-X can, is a clean-side separator really necessary for a basically stock engine?

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not that I don't really enjoy reading 90 pages of information in one sitting, can anyone tell me which Elite E2-X catch can model I should order for my 2015 6.2? They have convinced me that if I am going to install one on the truck at all then I should go with their newest model for the best filtration, but I want to make sure I get the right kit. Is everything included for the instal on these trucks?

 

Also, with the E2-X can, is a clean-side separator really necessary for a basically stock engine?

 

 

You would choose this part number:

You would want to choose this one, part number E2X-A1SVP4-GM

 

From the Top of the Pull Down Menu:

GM Truck, 2014+ GM V8 LS - Single Valve E2-X Catch Can

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineering-e2-x-catch-can/

 

The Clean-Side Separator is optional.

Edited by Elite Engineering
  • Like 3
brwk Enthusiast

brwk

Posted
Posted

So what is the better or more advanced product, RX or E2-X?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • TrueBlue
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...