Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Should we be doing this to our Elite catch cans every so often?

 

According to RX (which is the same can as the Elite E2X), they have run 60+ thousand miles on cans without any cleaning or servicing and they continue to run just fine. As long as the oil amount that I'm catching is consistent, I don't plan to touch it until closer to 100,000 miles.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Physics forums:

Water does a nice job decarboning the piston/cylinder area but has virtually no effect on the intake side of the intake valve or EGR passages and that is where the majority of carbon build up happens. This is much more of a problem in direct injection engines. The PCV system functions to recycle combustion blow-by through the intake. It builds up on the intake valve where the venture effect causes low pressure and the combustion contaminants condense out and adhere to the valve head. This requires chemical or mechanical removal and can not be removed with water. You can decarbon part of your engine with water, but you are treating the part of the engine least affected by carbon buildup.

 

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/decarbonizing-an-engine-with-water-myth-or-fact.793344/page-2

Good info!!

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted (edited)

Good info!!

Thanks Man! We are all here to gather quality info from others and other sites. It's important to keep this info at the top of the page LOL. GDI is very new to me so i am collecting all i can on the subject. Now, GDI Tech, can you help me tune my 64 pontiac tripower? I have a stumble in transition between the center carb and outer carbs when they kick in!! Lol Just kidding man! just a little background on the fueling system i have been working on before i bought my new truck :)

 

Generations of technology advances between the two!

Edited by Willshire
GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

LOL! I want you tri-power!! Todya's crowd would just look at them and like? duh? The center carb as you know is where the idle mixture is all done for the most part as the rear and forward carbs don't come in until accelerating. As someone who grew up in the 60's, and having a neighbor that worked on Jags/Triumphs/MG's, and other euro cars, I learned everything from SU's to early Lucas mechanical injection (early Maserati's). Early Rochestors and Carters and Holley's were a breaze in comparison. Ahh, to go back in time to the "simple days"!!

 

Merry Christmas all!

  • Like 1
Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

Yep, the outer carbs have accelerator pumps and jets and that's it! GDI Tech, you were around when Mickey Thompson built the Pontiac Hemi then too? I think he was part of their race division back then.

 

Anyways! Back to catch cans!!

 

Merry Christmas Folks!

schmolf4 Enthusiast

schmolf4

Posted
Posted

Thanks Man! We are all here to gather quality info from others and other sites. It's important to keep this info at the top of the page LOL. GDI is very new to me so i am collecting all i can on the subject. Now, GDI Tech, can you help me tune my 64 pontiac tripower? I have a stumble in transition between the center carb and outer carbs when they kick in!! Lol Just kidding man! just a little background on the fueling system i have been working on before i bought my new truck :)

 

Generations of technology advances between the two!

assuming you have the 389 in that beast of a pontiac?

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

Yes sir 389 350hp/400tq in a 4000 lb car! Lol. 4 speed auto. It's in pieces right now and it takes all my mod money so the truck will have to stay as it is. With the exception of a bb tune in the future lol

Jordan18 Enthusiast

Jordan18

Posted
Posted

Has to be something routed incorrectly or a vacuum leal. If you can post pictures of all your hoses and connections, and the most important is the drain valve being closed (if so equipped).

 

And yes, the Extreme Auto can like this is the cheap China made junk. Anyone with a welded one got one of the originals. These as soon as it freezes out I think we will see plenty popping the glued on bottom and tops off:

 

DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg​

DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg​

 

These are what RXspeedworks sells so beware!!

 

I fell victim and have a speedworks can. However just to give an update since I put it on in the summer, I haven't seen signs it is coming apart anywhere, I just have had some leakage from the drain fitting coming loose but tightened up.

 

It's been 5 to 0 F (-15 to -20 C) here where I live, I drain it after every long trip and have been getting close to 1.5-2 oz of fluid every 200-300 miles in these temps. The more bombing around town I do, the more fluid it seems to catch compared to equivalent highway distances. I checked my intake for shits and giggles, compared to me checking prior to putting on the can, there is no noticeable sheen or shine like before. Just looks dry inside the intake which it seems to be doing the job.

 

I still am more of a fan of Elites style of taking the bottom off to see the inside.

batman900 Enthusiast

batman900

Posted
Posted (edited)

Installed my Elite can today, big thanks to those that gave info on this can and on the install. The posted video and pics on page 11 helped a TON. I also gotta say that the guys over at Elite are top notch, they gave fantastic customer service and replied to emails extremely fast. Very friendly company that I'm happy to support.

 

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

 

Thanks!

 

IMG_0048_zps1o4wgg76.jpg

Edited by batman900
  • Like 1
jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

So my line from can to intake is collapsing more than I'm comfortable with when engine bay is hot. Seems to be after the check valve. Is the check valve necessary or just redundant. Assume the normal PCV is enough.

 

This is the standard elite kit and their hose on my 14 5.3.

 

Josh

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

jrob, the emissions/vacuum line supplied by Elite is more than sufficient for this application and has been used for years as a vacuum and PCV hose. If your line is collapsing, there could be another problem. Are you sure the direction of flow on the check valve is correct? If not, it will pull full manifold vacuum against the hose (between check valve and intake manifold) which is more than normal and could cause it to collapse. If you still feel like the hose is not meeting your expectations, here is another hose to try. Go to your local CAT dealer parts department. Hose # 1E-0743, Size .375, SAE 100R6, Rated for 400 PSI. This hose will still slide over the 3/8" barb fittings and there is no way it will collapse. It is rated for fuel, oil and water. I do not have a part number, but 100R4 hydraulic hose is rated for hydraulic, fuel and vacuum and has two layers of braiding. Both will slide over your barbed fittings and will exceed your expectations. One note, if you are using AN fittings, these hoses will not slide into the fittings as it has a larger outside diameter.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

 

 

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

 

Thanks!

 

IMG_0048_zps1o4wgg76.jpg

 

yep, that is fine. That is how I have my can mounted. Clean install!

  • Like 1
jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

jrob, the emissions/vacuum line supplied by Elite is more than sufficient for this application and has been used for years as a vacuum and PCV hose. If your line is collapsing, there could be another problem. Are you sure the direction of flow on the check valve is correct? If not, it will pull full manifold vacuum against the hose (between check valve and intake manifold) which is more than normal and could cause it to collapse. If you still feel like the hose is not meeting your expectations, here is another hose to try. Go to your local CAT dealer parts department. Hose # 1E-0743, Size .375, SAE 100R6, Rated for 400 PSI. This hose will still slide over the 3/8" barb fittings and there is no way it will collapse. It is rated for fuel, oil and water. I do not have a part number, but 100R4 hydraulic hose is rated for hydraulic, fuel and vacuum and has two layers of braiding. Both will slide over your barbed fittings and will exceed your expectations. One note, if you are using AN fittings, these hoses will not slide into the fittings as it has a larger outside diameter.

 

Thanks for the reply, it runs from the side of the can to the manifold and the check-valve has the little arrow on it pointing toward the manifold. I tested it by blowing through it as well. I dont have any hard bends but where it turns by the valve cover/radiator hose is where it flattens.

 

Q9IRhJZ.jpg

 

W8Mkm9M.jpg

Edited by jrob56
jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

Installed my Elite can today, big thanks to those that gave info on this can and on the install. The posted video and pics on page 11 helped a TON. I also gotta say that the guys over at Elite are top notch, they gave fantastic customer service and replied to emails extremely fast. Very friendly company that I'm happy to support.

 

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

 

Thanks!

 

IMG_0048_zps1o4wgg76.jpg

 

Is that attached to the big bolt you can see in the pic? I like this mounting position, might move mine.

batman900 Enthusiast

batman900

Posted
Posted

Is that attached to the big bolt you can see in the pic? I like this mounting position, might move mine.

Yessir, very secure and cake to access.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...