Oil catch can?

Silverado-Hareek · December 22, 2015

Should we be doing this to our Elite catch cans every so often?

According to RX (which is the same can as the Elite E2X), they have run 60+ thousand miles on cans without any cleaning or servicing and they continue to run just fine. As long as the oil amount that I'm catching is consistent, I don't plan to touch it until closer to 100,000 miles.

GDI Tech · December 23, 2015

Physics forums:

Water does a nice job decarboning the piston/cylinder area but has virtually no effect on the intake side of the intake valve or EGR passages and that is where the majority of carbon build up happens. This is much more of a problem in direct injection engines. The PCV system functions to recycle combustion blow-by through the intake. It builds up on the intake valve where the venture effect causes low pressure and the combustion contaminants condense out and adhere to the valve head. This requires chemical or mechanical removal and can not be removed with water. You can decarbon part of your engine with water, but you are treating the part of the engine least affected by carbon buildup.

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/decarbonizing-an-engine-with-water-myth-or-fact.793344/page-2

Good info!!

Willshire · December 23, 2015

Good info!!

Thanks Man! We are all here to gather quality info from others and other sites. It's important to keep this info at the top of the page LOL. GDI is very new to me so i am collecting all i can on the subject. Now, GDI Tech, can you help me tune my 64 pontiac tripower? I have a stumble in transition between the center carb and outer carbs when they kick in!! Lol Just kidding man! just a little background on the fueling system i have been working on before i bought my new truck

Generations of technology advances between the two!

Edited December 23, 2015 by Willshire

GDI Tech · December 23, 2015

LOL! I want you tri-power!! Todya's crowd would just look at them and like? duh? The center carb as you know is where the idle mixture is all done for the most part as the rear and forward carbs don't come in until accelerating. As someone who grew up in the 60's, and having a neighbor that worked on Jags/Triumphs/MG's, and other euro cars, I learned everything from SU's to early Lucas mechanical injection (early Maserati's). Early Rochestors and Carters and Holley's were a breaze in comparison. Ahh, to go back in time to the "simple days"!!

Merry Christmas all!

Willshire · December 23, 2015

Yep, the outer carbs have accelerator pumps and jets and that's it! GDI Tech, you were around when Mickey Thompson built the Pontiac Hemi then too? I think he was part of their race division back then.

Anyways! Back to catch cans!!

Merry Christmas Folks!

schmolf4 · December 24, 2015

Thanks Man! We are all here to gather quality info from others and other sites. It's important to keep this info at the top of the page LOL. GDI is very new to me so i am collecting all i can on the subject. Now, GDI Tech, can you help me tune my 64 pontiac tripower? I have a stumble in transition between the center carb and outer carbs when they kick in!! Lol Just kidding man! just a little background on the fueling system i have been working on before i bought my new truck

Generations of technology advances between the two!

assuming you have the 389 in that beast of a pontiac?

Willshire · December 24, 2015

Yes sir 389 350hp/400tq in a 4000 lb car! Lol. 4 speed auto. It's in pieces right now and it takes all my mod money so the truck will have to stay as it is. With the exception of a bb tune in the future lol

Jordan18 · December 24, 2015

Has to be something routed incorrectly or a vacuum leal. If you can post pictures of all your hoses and connections, and the most important is the drain valve being closed (if so equipped).

And yes, the Extreme Auto can like this is the cheap China made junk. Anyone with a welded one got one of the originals. These as soon as it freezes out I think we will see plenty popping the glued on bottom and tops off:

These are what RXspeedworks sells so beware!!

I fell victim and have a speedworks can. However just to give an update since I put it on in the summer, I haven't seen signs it is coming apart anywhere, I just have had some leakage from the drain fitting coming loose but tightened up.

It's been 5 to 0 F (-15 to -20 C) here where I live, I drain it after every long trip and have been getting close to 1.5-2 oz of fluid every 200-300 miles in these temps. The more bombing around town I do, the more fluid it seems to catch compared to equivalent highway distances. I checked my intake for shits and giggles, compared to me checking prior to putting on the can, there is no noticeable sheen or shine like before. Just looks dry inside the intake which it seems to be doing the job.

I still am more of a fan of Elites style of taking the bottom off to see the inside.

batman900 · December 25, 2015

Installed my Elite can today, big thanks to those that gave info on this can and on the install. The posted video and pics on page 11 helped a TON. I also gotta say that the guys over at Elite are top notch, they gave fantastic customer service and replied to emails extremely fast. Very friendly company that I'm happy to support.

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

Thanks!

Edited December 25, 2015 by batman900

jrob56 · December 27, 2015

So my line from can to intake is collapsing more than I'm comfortable with when engine bay is hot. Seems to be after the check valve. Is the check valve necessary or just redundant. Assume the normal PCV is enough.

This is the standard elite kit and their hose on my 14 5.3.

Josh

BuyAmericanIron · December 28, 2015

jrob, the emissions/vacuum line supplied by Elite is more than sufficient for this application and has been used for years as a vacuum and PCV hose. If your line is collapsing, there could be another problem. Are you sure the direction of flow on the check valve is correct? If not, it will pull full manifold vacuum against the hose (between check valve and intake manifold) which is more than normal and could cause it to collapse. If you still feel like the hose is not meeting your expectations, here is another hose to try. Go to your local CAT dealer parts department. Hose # 1E-0743, Size .375, SAE 100R6, Rated for 400 PSI. This hose will still slide over the 3/8" barb fittings and there is no way it will collapse. It is rated for fuel, oil and water. I do not have a part number, but 100R4 hydraulic hose is rated for hydraulic, fuel and vacuum and has two layers of braiding. Both will slide over your barbed fittings and will exceed your expectations. One note, if you are using AN fittings, these hoses will not slide into the fittings as it has a larger outside diameter.

fondupot · December 28, 2015

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

Thanks!

yep, that is fine. That is how I have my can mounted. Clean install!

jrob56 · December 28, 2015

jrob, the emissions/vacuum line supplied by Elite is more than sufficient for this application and has been used for years as a vacuum and PCV hose. If your line is collapsing, there could be another problem. Are you sure the direction of flow on the check valve is correct? If not, it will pull full manifold vacuum against the hose (between check valve and intake manifold) which is more than normal and could cause it to collapse. If you still feel like the hose is not meeting your expectations, here is another hose to try. Go to your local CAT dealer parts department. Hose # 1E-0743, Size .375, SAE 100R6, Rated for 400 PSI. This hose will still slide over the 3/8" barb fittings and there is no way it will collapse. It is rated for fuel, oil and water. I do not have a part number, but 100R4 hydraulic hose is rated for hydraulic, fuel and vacuum and has two layers of braiding. Both will slide over your barbed fittings and will exceed your expectations. One note, if you are using AN fittings, these hoses will not slide into the fittings as it has a larger outside diameter.

Thanks for the reply, it runs from the side of the can to the manifold and the check-valve has the little arrow on it pointing toward the manifold. I tested it by blowing through it as well. I dont have any hard bends but where it turns by the valve cover/radiator hose is where it flattens.

Edited December 28, 2015 by jrob56

jrob56 · December 28, 2015

Installed my Elite can today, big thanks to those that gave info on this can and on the install. The posted video and pics on page 11 helped a TON. I also gotta say that the guys over at Elite are top notch, they gave fantastic customer service and replied to emails extremely fast. Very friendly company that I'm happy to support.

Side note, I attached the can to one of the radiator bolts next to the washer fluid as the curved bracket behind the bolt keeps the can from sagging even if tugged on. I'm guessing this is fine? The washer fluid location wasn't sturdy and I didn't want to mount it so far back that it would be inconvenient to clean.

Thanks!

Is that attached to the big bolt you can see in the pic? I like this mounting position, might move mine.