Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hmm I'll have to see how quickly mine fills after a couple days. It's 8 degrees, brr!!

 

Also, does your exhaust smoke a lot in the cold? I have been paying attention to other cars at stop lights lately and notice that more often than not most cars at the light are NOT smoking while my truck is still spewing out a fairly decent cloud of condensation... is this normal for these trucks? Even after the engine reaches operating temp and stays at that temp for several miles. Maybe I am not getting on it enough, usually I'm putzing on my commute to work and back, barely making 2k rpm ever.

 

Hot exhaust + Cold Air = "Smokey" exhaust. It's not smoke, its just condensation.

Posted

I fought through the cold and looked through about 40 pages of this thread today to better understand how to install my E2-X can. Well it all paid off!! Without receiving instructions in the box I have to thank all of you for helping me with this one!!

 

Now I will see how much orange slime builds up in our -15 degree Wisconsin winter. Also gonna see what Tupperware I can take of the wife's to use to empty this in [emoji12]!!

 

b64086cd710a9ab15e9c8bea894683c2.jpg7151807bdc0ad572a31008f31c219248.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Great job! With the cleanside line added connecting the 2 valve covers together, you will want the cleanside separator though that replaces the oil fill cap.

 

Looking at the results and how after it sits a while and separates, you can see that the only oil is the top layer. The rest is sulfuric acid and water on the bottom, unburnt fuel and water in the middle, and oil on the top. See how dark it is? That is the abrasive soot/carbon/ash contaminats you are now removing from the engine oil and crankcase as well. Keeps oil cleaner longer.

 

Cheers!

Posted

I have a Elite E2-X for sale, only used 2 months. Will sell for $150 firm. Everything is included that was sent to me from Elite. I sold the truck, too many issues for me. I also have almost new Husky X-act floor liners for front and rear, crew cab, black. And DeeZee NXT side steps and DeeZee bed mat and GM back seat storage. I won't ship anything as I want cash in hand. I live in the Omaha, NE area. PM me if your interested, I'll make you a deal in the whole set if your interested.

Posted

I have a Elite E2-X for sale, only used 2 months. Will sell for $150 firm. Everything is included that was sent to me from Elite. I sold the truck, too many issues for me. I also have almost new Husky X-act floor liners for front and rear, crew cab, black. And DeeZee NXT side steps and DeeZee bed mat and GM back seat storage. I won't ship anything as I want cash in hand. I live in the Omaha, NE area. PM me if your interested, I'll make you a deal in the whole set if your interested.

 

You know there is a forum for that.

Posted

015b47d35f1d6991cec7957bf9765c67.jpg

 

Not even 3 days worth here in MN with sub zero temps through the day. Looks like I will be shortening my emptying interval...

 

It would be great if elite engineering came out with an larger reservoir for those of us that already purchased the standard can

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Does anyone know how full it would be before it starts sucking thru? Mine was about 1 inch before the threads when i last emptied. Im checking it every couple days now it's filling so fast.

Posted

If you look at my picture in my earlier post it was a little below the threads. I pulled the hose off leading to the intake and it did have some of the slimy gunk in it. So I think it sucked some in. So what is this BG or whatever cleaning that's been talked about? Where do you have this done at, the dealer?

Posted

If you look at my picture in my earlier post it was a little below the threads. I pulled the hose off leading to the intake and it did have some of the slimy gunk in it. So I think it sucked some in. So what is this BG or whatever cleaning that's been talked about? Where do you have this done at, the dealer?

Crap that isn't good to hear at all. Mine was super close to that, if not the same. No idea how long it was at that level either. Wouldn't it be expected that the line would have some funk in it anyway because this can is not catching 100%..

 

I'm also becoming interested in this BG service. Coming up on 10,000 miles, I know it should be be done within the next few thousand while the build up is minimal.

 

Mjj, maybe let me know if you discover some place to get it done. Not sure where you are but I'm in SE Michigan. I wonder if BG is more or less effective than taking the intake manifold off and going in and manually cleaning the valves.

Posted (edited)

Go here: http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

 

type in your Zip code and find a shop near you that does the BG Cleaning service.

Thank you for the site link. I'll read into this more. My dealer does it so I think I'll try to get it done this Friday during my already scheduled free oil change. I'm at almost 20k miles. FYI, not sure if price is same at all places but $99 at dealer. Edited by mjj
Posted

Go here: http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

 

type in your Zip code and find a shop near you that does the BG Cleaning service.

 

BG appears to have a multitude of products and services available. Should the following be done or something else?

 

BG has a two-pronged approach to potential complications in GDI engines: the Clean Up and the Keep It Clean.

The Clean Up is for the GDI engines that have accumulated many thousands of miles and have the deposit buildup to prove it. While it’s in depth, it’s nothing compared to the complete teardown in which many service departments are elbow deep.

BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner Part 1 and 2

BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner, PNs 271 and 272, is a two-part process formulated to quickly soften and disperse baked-on deposits, which accumulate on the intake valves of direct-injected engines. With the Gasoline Direct Injection Service Tools, PN 9060, the technician can remove harmful deposits without the complete disassembly that’s typically required.

271_272-233x300.png

Once theGDI.png GDI engine has been cleaned up, it’s imperative to keep it clean to avoid continuous deposit buildup. The BEST way to clean these tough-to-remove deposits is to avoid them in the first place. The Keep It Clean approach packs a punch with three of BG’s most effective products. The BEST way to do that is with the BG GDI Performance Service at each oil change interval.

BG GDI Performance Service

BG EPR® Engine Performance Restoration, PN 109, softens and dissolves hard-to-remove deposits from piston rings. Compression will begin to increase in as little as 10 minutes! Properly sealed combustion chambers improve compression, reducing oil dilution through blow-by, which is typical in GDI engines. BG EPR® will restore lost fuel economy and power.

BG MOA,® PN 110, engine oil supplement prevents engine oil thickening under even the most severe driving conditions. It fortifies all qualities of engine oil to help withstand fuel contamination and maintain essential lubrication qualities longer under extreme temperatures. It keeps ring lands, hydraulic cams and lifters and other engine components clean.

BG 44K,® PN 208, fuel system cleaner quickly and effectively cleans the entire fuel system. BG 44K® provides quick cleanup of carbon-covered piston tops, fuel injectors and other crucial combustion areas. Because it provides efficient removal of upper engine deposits, it reduces problems caused by deposit buildup such as engine surge, stalling, stumble, hesitation and power loss. BG 44K® quickly restores engine performance and improves drivability.

Posted

I don't know if I should be happy it's catching this much or sad my truck is probably ingesting this gunk in the gulp fulls. This is from 3 days and 205 miles of driving in teens to twenties temps. Looks like I'll have to be diligent about emptying daily. At this rate I honestly can't see the E2-X being a big advantage capacity wise. From Elite's website the original can holds 8oz, the 2nd gen 11oz, and the E2-X 12oz. It'd still be full by weeks end especially if it actually catches more. So my dilemma, keep my 8oz can and get BG service done at the 15k intervals at $99 a pop. 3 times will pay for an E2-X so just pony up now for it. Does using the E2-X negate the need for the BG service all together? That still will not solve this cold weather issue though. I suppose ditch the can during the winter months or all together and keep up on the BG cleanings. It'd be hard to actually ditch the can I think since I've had first hand experience what the build up can do over 100k miles on our previous Acadia. I don't wanna go thru that expensive mess again. Is there anyone who lives North and who has the E2-X able to chime in here on how quickly it's filling up? Elite if you are listening what do you suggest for us in Northern states or Canada to do? Right now I'm forced to empty the can more oftern than I fill up with gas. Its not practical. A great functional piece of hardware but just not practical in cold climates.

post-138443-0-84127400-1453339302_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-84127400-1453339302_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-84127400-1453339302_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-84127400-1453339302_thumb.jpg

Posted

Thank you for the site link. I'll read into this more. My dealer does it so I think I'll try to get it done this Friday during my already scheduled free oil change. I'm at almost 20k miles. FYI, not sure if price is same at all places but $99 at dealer.

 

Make sure the dealer is doing a full "BG Induction Service." That was running more like $350 at a side shop including a full synthetic oil change. $99 sounds like they're just doing a valve cleaner through your throttle body even if it is BG. The full induction service is a 3 part system/process and is the one where BG will provide a $4,000 engine warranty if you keep up with it every 15,000 miles. I'm not happy about spending $350 every other oil change roughly but that's the unfortunate cost of having a direct injection engine. No catch can will catch 100% of blow by and while these RX or Elite Engineering cans will catch most of the blowby oil and contaminants, the little that still gets by will gunk up on your valves over time and you'll need to clean them.

Posted (edited)

mjj - I would think the E2X would be easier to empty since it has a ball valve and could run a hose from it to a place you can have some thing to drain it into easily. If you're filling an 8oz can in 3 days math would say you'd fill a 12 oz in 4-5 days. I have the E2X but it's not as cold here so can't say how quickly it will fill up. Again I think the ball valve would make it easier/quicker. One thought I had was run the hose to a milk or gallon jug secured somewhere and you could just open the hood, turn the valve to let it drain, turn the valve and be done until the jug fills up.

 

Regarding the BG service; They (GDI Tech) say the E2X has been tested to catch 95-98% of the blow by. With that little amount I plan to spend $15 on CRC Valve cleaner every 10k miles (before an oil change) just to clean the valves up a little. I feel that the E2X will keep enough off the valves that no large deposits will build up and concern me when I use the cleaner (scratching the cylinder walls).

 

What happened to your Acadia? I just manually cleaned my wife's Acadia's valves at 30k and put an E2X can on. Hope to have both vehicles for a long time since we don't put many miles on them.

 

I would recommend manually cleaning the valves if you have 25-30k mile on your truck without a catch can and not do the BG service (can after manual cleaning but what's the point if they are clean) because those deposits have to go somewhere and I feel it will do some type of damage. Like I said my plan is to use a quality catch can and use CRC (cheap) just to clean them up once a year or so. Doing the cleaning every 10-15k miles with a quality catch can I don't feel that enough buildup will be one the valves to do any damage.

 

I'm no expert but after reading a lot on the topic that's my plan.

 

Good luck.

Edited by CH15GMC
Posted

 

Make sure the dealer is doing a full "BG Induction Service." That was running more like $350 at a side shop including a full synthetic oil change. $99 sounds like they're just doing a valve cleaner through your throttle body even if it is BG. The full induction service is a 3 part system/process and is the one where BG will provide a $4,000 engine warranty if you keep up with it every 15,000 miles. I'm not happy about spending $350 every other oil change roughly but that's the unfortunate cost of having a direct injection engine. No catch can will catch 100% of blow by and while these RX or Elite Engineering cans will catch most of the blowby oil and contaminants, the little that still gets by will gunk up on your valves over time and you'll need to clean them.

I guess I'm not sure what the "full" service is compared to this one which is what I was thinking I wanted and asked the dealer about:

 

BG Fuel/Air Induction Service

The BG Fuel/Air Induction Service covers gasoline fuel systems.

Service interval: Within 15,000 miles/25,000 km of the previous service

Maximum reimbursement: Plan 1: $4,000 US; Plan 2: $2,000 US

 

https://www.bgprod.com/programs/lifetime-bg-protection-plan/

 

Sounds like with only 20k miles I'd quality for the $4000 warranty.

 

Do you mind explaining what the "full" service is you mentioned as I am not sure from reading their website.

 

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...