Oil catch can?

[GDI Tech]

The air separators from an air compressor only trap a small amount. And for any brand, really need to do a test as laid out to see first hand. If you get one of the truely effective units (yes, I still come back to the ELite E2-X as it is the one shown to outerform all others in the dozens and dozens we have tested) then most all is trapped and the issue is not an issue any longer. The first empty when you add the E2-X will be a greater amount than the subsequent generally as your now evacuating at all times so your removing much of what had already accumulated in the crankcase. As far as using a can that the test results have not been done, or one with only one exit port, you are goinf to see issues in the future as the GDI engine is far diffeferent than the port injection engines of the past.

 

Then, I have covered the use of seafoam and similar solvent based cleaners and unless used right from the start before the deposits form enough to cause damage when you use them, you will have scouring to the pistons and cylinder walls as well as other potential damage. If used in conjunction with say the E2X system, they will help maintain deposit free valves for the life of the engine.

[Willshire]

Not that the E2-X isn't but, it looks like the ADD W1 is fully serviceable and it appears guys have had great success with them. At only 1500 miles and a CRC/Seafoam regimen is still recommended, the ADD looks like a inexpensive alternative to the E2-X. Do you guys cut the existing pcv connectors off of the factory pcv tube and reuse them for the catch can?

Edited December 21, 2015 by Willshire

[Brianibew]

I have the e2x and it is fully serviceable. All the internal components can be accessed and cleaned. It is a professional grade part. I am amazed of how much it collects.

[Silverado-Hareek]

I have the e2x and it is fully serviceable. All the internal components can be accessed and cleaned. It is a professional grade part. I am amazed of how much it collects.

It's serviceable but not without completely removing it and you can't see the inside of the can. But yes you can spray carbeurator cleaner inside and shake it up and then rinse it out.

 

 

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[Brianibew]

It is fully serviceable...both endcaps can be unscrewed and the components can be cleaned.

[mjj]

It's serviceable but not without completely removing it and you can't see the inside of the can. But yes you can spray carbeurator cleaner inside and shake it up and then rinse it out.

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Should we be doing this to our Elite catch cans every so often? Edited December 22, 2015 by mjj

[Willshire]

Should we be doing this to our Elite catch cans every so often?

I would think we should be checking the media for buildup but, since it doesn't see the heat the back of the valves do i can't see the oil and water bonding to the media very much. A check once in a while is just good maintenance

[Willshire]

I have the e2x and it is fully serviceable. All the internal components can be accessed and cleaned. It is a professional grade part. I am amazed of how much it collects.

Not doubting the effectiveness of this can at all. As a matter of fact it looks very well engineered. But with the CDN dollar in the crapper, this is an almost $500 dollar part.

 

Put straight pipes on it and use a crankcase evacuation kit! LOL

Edited December 22, 2015 by Willshire

[GDI Tech]

Not that the E2-X isn't but, it looks like the ADD W1 is fully serviceable and it appears guys have had great success with them. At only 1500 miles and a CRC/Seafoam regimen is still recommended, the ADD looks like a inexpensive alternative to the E2-X. Do you guys cut the existing pcv connectors off of the factory pcv tube and reuse them for the catch can?

And it is for a port injection engine, but GDI cannot tolerate any oil ingestion, so that is what the owner needs to take into consideration. Running a can that only traps say 30-50% of the oil mix entering will help some, but still result in coking. When you take into consideration the added MPG the E2-X gives, it is a no brainer. But everyone is free to install what they choose. I can only pass on actual testing results and there are not many that can come close to the E2-X, and none to date that exceed it.

 

On cleaning, they should not need to be cleaned. All Elite are billet threaded and O-ringed to be able to service, but again, in testing any of the cans rarely did any need to be cleaned no matter the brand. If they operated inside the engine where temps are high enough then residue would bake onto the internals, but as all cans cool the vapors substantially, none need to be cleaned except at say 50k mile intervals just for maintenance if desired. The longest test we have done is 63,000 miles and on inspection very little actual build up was anywhere internally.

 

jsdirt, AMEN to that statement!

[Willshire]

What ever happened to the old days of sucking water into the intake via manifold vacuum and steam cleaning the valves? Those days were awesome!

[fondupot]

What ever happened to the old days of sucking water into the intake via manifold vacuum and steam cleaning the valves? Those days were awesome!

 

You would never really clean the tops of the valves by doing this...even in the old days. This method of water injection just cleans inside the cylinder. so the backs of the valves might get cleaned, but the issue still remains with the tops sides of the valves.

[Willshire]

 

You would never really clean the tops of the valves by doing this...even in the old days. This method of water injection just cleans inside the cylinder. so the backs of the valves might get cleaned, but the issue still remains with the tops sides of the valves.

i just figured water droplets rushing in to a 350 degree valve (assumption on temp as i know the valves are hotter than the coolant.) would turn the droplets into steam just as they were approaching the valve. I'm not an engineer so this is pure speculation.

[Willshire]

Physics forums:

Water does a nice job decarboning the piston/cylinder area but has virtually no effect on the intake side of the intake valve or EGR passages and that is where the majority of carbon build up happens. This is much more of a problem in direct injection engines. The PCV system functions to recycle combustion blow-by through the intake. It builds up on the intake valve where the venture effect causes low pressure and the combustion contaminants condense out and adhere to the valve head. This requires chemical or mechanical removal and can not be removed with water. You can decarbon part of your engine with water, but you are treating the part of the engine least affected by carbon buildup.

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/decarbonizing-an-engine-with-water-myth-or-fact.793344/page-2

[fondupot]

Physics forums:

Water does a nice job decarboning the piston/cylinder area but has virtually no effect on the intake side of the intake valve or EGR passages and that is where the majority of carbon build up happens. This is much more of a problem in direct injection engines. The PCV system functions to recycle combustion blow-by through the intake. It builds up on the intake valve where the venture effect causes low pressure and the combustion contaminants condense out and adhere to the valve head. This requires chemical or mechanical removal and can not be removed with water. You can decarbon part of your engine with water, but you are treating the part of the engine least affected by carbon buildup.

 

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/decarbonizing-an-engine-with-water-myth-or-fact.793344/page-2

 

yep, pretty much exactly what I was getting at.

[Willshire]

Looks like a BG style cleaning every so often (15k) is warranted anyways. I pity the guy down the hall from me that has 50k miles on his silverado and these things don't even ponder with him. He's a 3-4 year turn and burn guy anyway LOL