Jump to content

Adding OEM Integrated Brake Controller ?


FIRELT

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can't be done. There is more to it than adding the switch and a reprogram. There is a separate harness and computer. Depending on how long ago you bought the truck, take it back to the dealer for a new truck, or go buy a Tekonsha P3

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I tried the take the truck back trick but they weren't hearing it. I've put a 1000 miles on it and about 2000 in accessories so I guess I will just have to shoot some self tapping screws into the dash of my $47000 truck. I'm very disappointed in the engineering on this topic by GM. An expensive lesson learned.

Posted

I'm very disappointed in the engineering on this topic by GM

 

:confused: Wouldnt necesarily blame this on gm

Posted

You have I believe 14 days to take a vehicle back. I like the P3. It isbt a bad controller

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

I didn't say it was GM's fault. I'm not above paying way too much for the parts to have the integrated controller if someone could reflash the computer to make it work. I just don't understand why the parts can originally be installed in Mexico but not added in Ohio.

Posted

Certain things just can't be added. And paying too much is the name of the game, steering wheel controls that would have cost $125 from the factory cost me $1000 to install

Posted
I didn't say it was GM's fault. I'm not above paying way too much for the parts to have the integrated controller if someone could reflash the computer to make it work. I just don't understand why the parts can originally be installed in Mexico but not added in Ohio.

 

 

Probably because of the complexity of the upgrade. It wouldn't surprise me if the rear module and associated harness are installed before the body is. As for flashing the computer, that could well be the hardest part. GM doesn't seem to want to do reflashes anymore for upgrades.

 

 

Posted

Certain things just can't be added. And paying too much is the name of the game, steering wheel controls that would have cost $125 from the factory cost me $1000 to install

Id say your right. I'm heading over to etrailer to order a P3. Thanks for the insight.

Posted

Reference the price on Amazon. I got mine there. $144 for the controller. $167 for controller and plug and play harness

Posted

There are lots that would argue that with the 900's the controller suggested above is a better controller than the factory one. Don't know if this will still be true with this generation.

 

I'm happy with the integrated controller in my 2011.

Posted

I had the Tekonsha P3 in my 2011 pick up. Great controller.

 

About to rip it out and sell it if anyone is interested. I have the box and all.

 

Will

Posted

GM has a PI out saying if it wasn't ordered that way it cannot be done. I would guess it isn't that it cant be done only that the parts list is probably rather extensive (modules, switch and wiring harness) and installing those parts would be fairly involved.

 

That isn't to say that if you could come up with these parts a determined person couldn't get them installed. My bet would be that the real issue lies with those parts playing well with the other modules on the network. Generally speaking the remaining modules on the network have to be programmed to recognize exactly which modules are on that particular vehicle.

 

Seeing how the vehicle was not built and programmed with the feature at the factory there isn't going to be a calibration built for it via GM (GM reprogramming goes of the VIN). Occasionally options are
"selectable" when programming modules but my bet is that is not the case with this one and multiple modules would need reprogramming to make it work.

 

An enterprising programmer could probably crack and write the code to add it to the modules but my guess that isn't real high on those guys to do list.

 

Add all these things up and the benefit of an integrated controller just isn't worth the hassle. GM does have a bulletin that addresses building an adapter harness to connect an aftermarket controller to the new trucks.

 

I would be more inclined to think someone will develop an aftermarket controller that drops into the spot the factory one goes for a cleaner install rather than figure out how to add the factory one.

 

Craig

Posted

I tried the take the truck back trick but they weren't hearing it. I've put a 1000 miles on it and about 2000 in accessories so I guess I will just have to shoot some self tapping screws into the dash of my $47000 truck. I'm very disappointed in the engineering on this topic by GM. An expensive lesson learned.

 

I don't think GM is to blame. Would you really want them to put it lower where it's not flush and clean looking if you actually had it in the package.

 

However, I don't know what kind of changes the new ones have as far as electrical, but I don't see why it actually can't be added later, but that would require you finding a totaled one. I bet the plug and mount up are all there. Talking completely different thing, but I know the Toyotas have a hookup under the dash.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,888
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    xdieselmechanic
    Newest Member
    xdieselmechanic
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 613 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...