Jump to content

Adding OEM Integrated Brake Controller ?


FIRELT

Recommended Posts

Posted

I broke down and ordered the P3 and 3016 connector. Does anyone have pics of where they installed theirs?

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I do but mine is a 2004. I mounted low by my right knee

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

Bump.

 

Those looking for a factory harness to install an aftermarket brake controller...part # 23184088 $32.00.

Just to let those future trailering people out there know that I have just installed my P3 controller with p/n 23184088 harness. I've chosen the underdash spot between the e-brake pedal and the diagnostic plug assy. It's a tight fit but close to the firewall module where the harness fits into. I've also taken the time to make a large enough hole in the junction block cover and install a grommet. I took the wire ends out of the plug, threaded the wires through the cover/grommet and re-installed the wires in the plug, then plugged the whole works in. Again it's tight, but the cover is in, the harness feeds straight into the junction block and the P3 controller hangs nearby.

I hope to go out to my travel trailer storage in the next week or so to try the controller out. I've got my trailer on jack stands so I can get an assistant to spin the wheels of the trailer by hand to make sure brake action is all good.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just to let those future trailering people out there know that I have just installed my P3 controller with p/n 23184088 harness. I've chosen the underdash spot between the e-brake pedal and the diagnostic plug assy. It's a tight fit but close to the firewall module where the harness fits into. I've also taken the time to make a large enough hole in the junction block cover and install a grommet. I took the wire ends out of the plug, threaded the wires through the cover/grommet and re-installed the wires in the plug, then plugged the whole works in. Again it's tight, but the cover is in, the harness feeds straight into the junction block and the P3 controller hangs nearby.

I hope to go out to my travel trailer storage in the next week or so to try the controller out. I've got my trailer on jack stands so I can get an assistant to spin the wheels of the trailer by hand to make sure brake action is all good.

So just as I promised, I will let you all know the outcome of my installation of the 23184088 harness and Tekonsha P3 controller. IT WENT WELL!

The $32.00 GM harness is THE way to go. Instructions that came with the harness are well written and simple to understand. I tested the system as mentioned above and it worked with no communication failures or check engine lights, etc.

If you have liitle or no experience dealing with late model North American vehicle harness' and electrical systems, than my advice to you is to buy the 23184088 harness, a brand name aftermarket controller and have your GM dealer install it.

 

Regards and happy trailering.

Posted

I have the P3 from previous truck worked great. Please let us know about the 3016 wiring plug and how well it connected. About to order one myself but don't need it until spring. Like to be ready tho.

Posted

I've got mine plugged right in and it powers up just fine. I have not hooked up a trailer with brakes yet though.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

From the GM Upfitters Web page:

AM Trailer Brake Harness

UPDATE:


An After-Market Trailer Brake Controller Jumper harness for the New
2014 1500 series pick-up trucks is now available. This ready to use
harness (P/N 23184088) can be obtained at your area GM Parts
Department. If you need more information please let us know via our
Contact Us page.

Posted

They are suppose to provide this 1 time free of charge. I would hit your dealership up for a $32 refund.

So just as I promised, I will let you all know the outcome of my installation of the 23184088 harness and Tekonsha P3 controller. IT WENT WELL!

The $32.00 GM harness is THE way to go. Instructions that came with the harness are well written and simple to understand. I tested the system as mentioned above and it worked with no communication failures or check engine lights, etc.

If you have liitle or no experience dealing with late model North American vehicle harness' and electrical systems, than my advice to you is to buy the 23184088 harness, a brand name aftermarket controller and have your GM dealer install it.

 

Regards and happy trailering.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

GM has a bulletin out stating that you cannot add JL1 to a truck after the fact.

 

They also have a bulletin that says they will make and supply a harness at no charge, see your dealer about #PIT5228: Interim Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller Harness - (Nov 12, 2013)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I dont have the factory installed Integrated Trailer Brake Control in my 2014 Silverado. I am thinking of getting the GM pigtail (23184088) and brake control. Does GM have all these items and if not what is the best brake control to install and where is the best place to install it in the truck so it is out of the way etc.? I dont do too much trailer hauling mainly light duty. Has anyone installed one and has photos how it looks in the truck?

Posted

Most of the trucks on the dealer lots with the trailer package does not have the factory installed Integrated Trailer Brake Control. Maybe the dealers are trying to keep the cost down but I feel it should be included to complete the package. The price is not too much anyways.

 

It appears a lot of people will have to put in their own trailer brake control so GM can now sell the harness etc. costing more money.

Posted

When you order the trailering package what is the electric brake lead?

 

 

Trailering Package

 

Trailering Package for 6-speed automatic transmission includes:◾Trailering hitch platform and 2" receiver

◾7-wire harness with independent fused trailering circuits mated to a 7-way sealed connector to hook up parking lamps, backup lamps, right and left turn signals, an electric brake lead, battery and a ground

◾Automatic locking rear differential

 

Included on LT models with available Max Trailering Package, All Star Edition, Texas Edition or Custom Sport. Standard on LT and LTZ models.

Posted

Too bad GM made it to where the stock one cant be retro'd into another truck. My controller is coming out tomorrow so I can put the cubby hole version of the dash cluster in. I would have never ordered the controller had it been my choice.

Posted

Why would you want to take it out to put a hole there? I think it looks "nicer" with it in.. More buttons, more fancy lol.. I haven't used mine yet, but will be as soon as I can find the trailer I like.. I have the air bags installed, the WDH bought, and the trailer I like gets sold out from under me... Oh by the way, I sat in a 15 LTZ Tahoe today and it too had the brake controller.. Also the Mylink and the screen in the cluster are updated and look a lot nicer/newer

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...