Jump to content

Leveling

daveor

Recommended Posts

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
Posted

Has anyone had the leveling kit put in? If so,,how much and was it worth it? Just got a new 2014 LTZ double cab last week and the front seems awfully low. My dealer said $650 complete installed.

GMC-AT Senior Enthusiast

GMC-AT

Posted
Posted

check your local 4x4 shops... you should be able to get it 350-400 installed.. 1.5in -2in spacers seem to be about perfect.

Jacksfan98 Enthusiast

Jacksfan98

Posted
Posted

My dealer supplied and installed a ready lift 1.5" leveling kit, performed the alignment, adjusted the headlights for $430.00

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted

I bought the kit direct from Rough Country for around $70 shipped to the house. An hour of labor (2 people) and afterwards and $80 alignment. If you have the tools (a couple jacks, 18" pry bar, and wrenches), you can do it all for around $150.

crushNchowda Senior Enthusiast

crushNchowda

Posted
Posted

It is nuts to me that the dealers would do this for you, I don't think any of the dealers in MA would entertain this, maybe some other northeast guys would chime in. I mentioned lift kit to the dealer I purchased my truck from and they said no they wouldn't install aftermarket parts and that YES it will void your warranty - they were also convinced it would inevitably lead to premature wear/failure on ball joints and uneven tire wear.

daveor Enthusiast

daveor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

not sure this would be called a lift kit,, just leveling the front to the back. My dealer has the 2 inch kits in stock. so am sure they must do quite a few of them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hunterpeety New Member

Hunterpeety

Posted
Posted

I just installed a RC 2.5 in the front and 3 inch blocks in the rear had it aligned and when I'm slowing down around 25mph I get a vibration in my steering wheel has anyone else had this problem

svtkidd23 Enthusiast

svtkidd23

Posted
Posted
I just installed a RC 2.5 in the front and 3 inch blocks in the rear had it aligned and when I'm slowing down around 25mph I get a vibration in my steering wheel has anyone else had this problem

I'm going with there 3.5 my kit.. Let me know what you find out

  • 2 weeks later...
DanielAcosta Enthusiast

DanielAcosta

Posted
Posted

My dealer installed a small 2" kit along with aftermarket wheels and tires before purchase. Drives great, no problems. With such a small lift, no one seems too concerned about longevity or warranty issues. Even if I had a 6" lift which is very common on GM trucks, I wouldn't be concerned.

 

Seems like I heard that ProComp is now offering a warranty on their lifts that kicks in if the vehicle manufacturer denies a claim due to their lift. Check it out.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SteveP45
      Whirring when accelerating at 1100 rpms 2022 LTZ 5.3

      By SteveP45 · Posted

      Idler Pulley… from what I understand GM and Chevy trucks no longer have an idler pulley.. they stretch belts for both belts… I had mine replaced by my local mechanic last year on my Chevy Silverado 5.3 z71 LT.   They have discontinued using them on 2019 through 2026 as of a Google search.
    • Fatboy2V-rod
      Whirring when accelerating at 1100 rpms 2022 LTZ 5.3

      By Fatboy2V-rod · Posted

      Good morning! I have a whirring sound coming from the engine or transmission area when driving w/o towing when I accelerate at 1100 rpm’s. That’s how it started. Yesterday it was more obvious while towing a U-Haul even when not accelerating at 70 mph. I could see where it may have been possibly shifting gears due to a slight grade and the intermittent rpm changes as the transmission was possibly lowering the gear down. It was making the sound multiple times but it is not constant. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulley but no change. It only does it when I’m driving. No noise accelerating while in park. Just started @ 53,000 miles. It’s not always there though. Unfortunately, I feel it may be transmission related. Any thoughts or knowledge about the 2022 tranny that anyone can share. I have 2500 miles left on my p-train warranty. Thanks to all for any help! 
    • Atlas
      Winter Returned

      By Atlas · Posted

      RAIN. It's dumping buckets. We needed it. What a welcome change...sitting here listening to it pour with my office window open.   Ok, not too much. It's not even September yet, we're not finished with summer yet....
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video.    There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.     
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat.    What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy  I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...