Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone actually used the GM connector in a 2014? When I originally went to dealer, they said that connector is different in the K2 vs GMT-900.

Posted (edited)

So here is what I have so far. The junction block is referred to "junction block X61a" in GM speak. It is used for upfitter applications. Connector number is 13924036 but probably is the plastic part only, no leads. Here are the terminals.

 

1 - 6 not occupied

7 Battery Positive Voltage

8 Accessory Voltage

9 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data

10 Ground

11 Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage

12 - 16 not occupied

17 Battery Positive Voltage

18 not occupied

19 Vehicle Speed Signal

20 not occupied

 

I'll keep digging for the terminal numbers.

FYI here is a link for upfitters and others. Tons of info. http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf

Edited by tbarn
  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone know if there is a way to access the RAP while staying the in engine compartment?

 

Also what is the real big difference between getting the GM connector part # 20791502 and just using a simple spade connector?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

Posted

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. Will have to run a wire from interior. RAP only runs accessories. Sunroof, rear slider, outlets and a few more things depending on options.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Anyone find a place to source this connector? Would a GM dealer have/get it? Any idea of the GM part number or would it be the same?

 

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hey Yall, I'm so glad I found this thread.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

 

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

 

This looks like its designated as connector X7 on the junction block (x61.)

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

 

Pinout 10 is indeed ground and all the other pins cited appear to be correct.

 

I just dont know where the power is coming from (yet.)

Edited by darkfox1
Posted

Does anyone also have an "after" photo showing how they've tapped into the RAP? Lots of good before photos, but the way my brain is wired, I'd do well to see the completed wiring, too.

Thanks,

 

-Evan

Posted (edited)

# 10 & 11 are grounds

I just got done testing with the multimeter and my pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground. All of the other pins in your original image were the same as I got. I have a ’15 Denali so perhaps it is a model specific thing.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

Yes it is 12v+ and it is fused. The fuse for pin #8 is a 10amp ATR fuse. It is in position #2 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO RAP.”

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

I did not find any fuses for the 12v+ constants at pin #7 & 17. However, the switched 12v+ which is pin #11 on mine is fused. It is a 15amp ATR fuse. It is in position #30 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO ALC.”

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

You would just need a pin crimping tool. I prefer to solder my pins to the wire though, so I don't have a pin crimping tool.

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

See my reply to MotoMedic. At least on mine, pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground.

See the red text.

Edited by Dunc
  • Like 1
Posted

 

I just can't find the correct size spade connector to fit these. I even have the connector, part # 20791502 (was for my 2013) and never installed it because it did not come with these spade connectors.

Try mouser.com. They will even have the correct plug to fit the vacant plug socket. You just need to know the part # first. They also sell any/every GM male and female connector out there.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

Thank you for posting that! For other in the future, these are indeed the correct part numbers. Below is are the prices to give an understanding of what "...but not cheap" means. It's fairly annoying that they come pre-wired and the larger pins have huge 12ga wire on them. I cut the wire off very close to the pin and soldered my wires I had already ran to the pins. Word of advice though is don't do this. Give yourself a little bit of the pre-wired wire because the hole in the connector that the pin goes in doesn't have much wiggle room. For those that do the connector route you can see another picture below for reference. If you stick the pin in the wrong hole just use a probe to lift up on the tab that my safety pin tip is touching and then just pull the wire back out.

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Sort of reviving this thread here. Do I need both sets of wires if i'm just pulling RAP and ground off of this? Or only the large/small depending on my amperage?

 

Looks like from pics that the pins may be different sizes,but can't tell from looking at that or in person.

 

I was looking at using Pin 8 to power some switches that will be backlit and used to pull in a battery sourced relay, so that the bcm can shut off the lights if I leave the switch on.

 

Also, those 3 parts come to about $48 shipped from IAMGMPARTS. They're a dealership in Jackson MS. apparently. So if you're near there you could probably get em to waive the shipping. (maybe.) They're a bit slow getting things in the mail but once they do it gets there quick for me and the prices tend to be very competitive with GMPD.

Edited by darkfox1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,925
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    btm
    Newest Member
    btm
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,488 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Why does Mobil Premium cost 90 cents a gallon more than Shell Premium when their regular offerings are but pennies apart? 
    • Was all the way down to $3.69 a gallon but then jumped back to $3.99 just because for some reason.   Diesel floats between $4.80's to $5.10ish a gallon. I even saw Diesel #1 for $6.09 today but nobody in there right mind even buys that in the summer.
    • Mine just keeps lagging or getting stuck on the reverse camera. When I turn off the truck, get out, and close the door it will still stay on. It’s very intermittent and I would not be able to duplicate the issue. 
    • I was checking out fuel prices at my farm fuel retailer at their pumps and yes the farm price is a bit lower than the non dyed fuel and was glad to see that the regular farm gas price has dropped a lot from what it had been but what blew me away was the price of diesel as the spread now compared to before the prices went up earlier in the year, diesel was actually slightly lower than gas which was a switch from the theme the last number of years. However that sure isn't the theme lately and definitely not right now. The prices I will post are not from that retailer but just looking at gasbuddy for the main city in this area and instead of posting the lowest price someone found I will list the higher price ( and that may not be the highest price, just whatever someone posted on gasbuddy ).   So regular gas and there are a lot of stations listing the same price for regular is 1.68 a liter, premium 2.00 a liter. Diesel 2.03 a liter for a top price I saw on diesel.   Figures out to 6.36 a us gallon Canadian funds for regular and 7.68 for diesel. With the US exchange rate it would be 4.58 us for regular and 5.53 for diesel.    Thought I would figure that out to get a picture of what it settles out like compared to various US prices and its about the same as the current price in Fairbanks AK as Anchorage tends to be lower. So yes, these would be the prices and higher along the way on the Alaska highway where they know they have a captured market !, for fuel prices for those beginning the long drive back to the lower 48   The problem is our Canadian dollar and going to the states that have the high prices, boy do we pay then !
    • Just wanted to get a idea of how many of you still have problems with your radio cutting out during the first few minutes of driving, my 2024 GMC Sierra still does this after a little over 2 years of complaining to my dealer about it, and OTA updates no longer complete, the check for updates in settings is greyed out for the second time while trying to install a update, my dealer took about a week to play around with it the first time this happened, and somehow got the check for updates to work, even though it would always show system is up to date when I knew it wasn't, now again 1 month later its greyed out again when the OTA update N25-F163BU tried to install, which ironically is the update to help with reliability of future updates.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...