Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Maybe a u-joint. You might need to shim the rear a couple degrees at the rear of the spring pad to align the rear back with the rest of the drivetrain. The shackles would have caused it to turn down as they pushed the springs up in the back. I am doing the entire kit including the front spindles. I am going to get it back together, and see how much shim I need to correct the angle.

 

Ok i will check that out thanks but would that be even possible on a newer truck, i had them installed around 10000 miles and now have 11000 miles.

Posted

Ok i will check that out thanks but would that be even possible on a newer truck, i had them installed around 10000 miles and now have 11000 miles.

A truck being new has nothing to do with driveline angles once you've lowered or raised it.

Posted

Has anyone who has used lowering shackles and removed the factory block have noise coming from the rear of the truck, sounds like a pop or clunk noise, it only happens when im backing and turning or hitting a bump, went to the dealer and they said they found some loose bolts on the suspension and tightened them down but drove around and can still hear it.

 

 

Ok i will check that out thanks but would that be even possible on a newer truck, i had them installed around 10000 miles and now have 11000 miles.

I am getting the same clicking, clunking sound while backing up, and turning. It is definitely the lack of shims to the leaf spring pads to realign the readend with the rest of the drivetrain that is causing it.

 

Here is a before and after of the Belltech 2/3 drop.

zeenewtruck.jpg

11245341_447996362026485_49225188_n.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

 

I am getting the same clicking, clunking sound while backing up, and turning. It is definitely the lack of shims to the leaf spring pads to realign the readend with the rest of the drivetrain that is causing it.

 

Here is a before and after of the Belltech 2/3 drop.

zeenewtruck.jpg

11245341_447996362026485_49225188_n.jpg

Wow nice wheels! What are those?

Posted

New here, has anyone installed the Rough Country 2/4 drop on their CCSB? I need to know exactly what the rake is left over in the back to fix it with drop blocks when I get it in.

Posted

Wow nice wheels! What are those?

Vision Legend gunmetal grey 6-141. 17x8 with 0 offset. Got them off Ebay from custom wheel outlet

Posted

Well my angles don't look to bad and checked for anything loose along the drivetrain and it feels very firm. 20150515_071647~2~2~2.jpg

did you measure the angles or just do a visual? It'll be impossible to get a visual look and judge if your a lined up correctly. A 2 degree difference isn't something you can eyeball but will make vibrations.
Posted

did you measure the angles or just do a visual? It'll be impossible to get a visual look and judge if your a lined up correctly. A 2 degree difference isn't something you can eyeball but will make vibrations.

Visual you can tell it's slightly off but but compared to my neighbors lifted 2015 chevy, I'm certain mine is pretty close to being straight. Im getting alot of sounds going over bumps too, I'm thinking the shackles are hitting the top of the bed and are moving as i don't thin the shop who installed them tightened them with the weight of the truck on them.

Posted

Do some research on pinion angles. It's meant to be angled and not actually straight. It might be straight going out of your diff but has an angle at the transmission. You might need to add some shims to the back to make your diff come down some to restore that angle.

Visual you can tell it's slightly off but but compared to my neighbors lifted 2015 chevy, I'm certain mine is pretty close to being straight. Im getting alot of sounds going over bumps too, I'm thinking the shackles are hitting the top of the bed and are moving as i don't thin the shop who installed them tightened them with the weight of the truck on them.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Visual you can tell it's slightly off but but compared to my neighbors lifted 2015 chevy, I'm certain mine is pretty close to being straight. Im getting alot of sounds going over bumps too, I'm thinking the shackles are hitting the top of the bed and are moving as i don't thin the shop who installed them tightened them with the weight of the truck on them.

just as stated above, you need to research about driveline angles. Your driveshaft shouldn't be straight and there is no way to tell what degree you angles are without the right instruments. Also you need to be looking at angles at the diff. and trans. If you have a crew cab with a 6.5' bed it's even more complex. my advice is to let someone fix it for you.

pretty sure your shackles aren't hitting the bed either, unless some body shims were removed. That would require lots of pointless work from the installer so I'm doubting that. even if the shackles weren't tightened properly they don't flex up and down on the upper portion near the frame.

Edited by DirtyMarcus
Posted

Well had the people who installed look over it and was told the noise is coming from two areas, first the clunking sound is coming from the leaf springs, their is a clamp holding two of the springs together and they are not tight, i would need to order another clamp to fix it. The popping sound I'm getting when in reverse and turning seems to be coming from inside the axle/differential, you can feel it pop when touching my wheel hub cap. Next week im getting 2 shims installed to see if this does anything.

Posted

Well, like I said previously I'd been having vibration issues since I lowered my crew cab long bed. Today I dropped it off at 4 wheels parts since they deal with these vibration issues. I had tried 2 and 4 degree shims myself and it only moved the vibration to different areas in the speed band. They shimmed the back with 2.5 degree shims and got it closer. They just called to say they finally found a carrier bearing bracket for the truck. Belltech makes it and when they talked to belltech, they said its pretty common for the CCLB truck to need the carrier bearing bracket. So now anyone having this vibration can get it fixed properly. They did have to order the part so it'll be another week or two before they can get my truck back in to install it. Just wanted to give everyone a heads up.

Posted

What does the carrier bearing bracket do? Does it relocate the carrier bearing position?

Posted

What does the carrier bearing bracket do? Does it relocate the carrier bearing position?

Yea, it makes it adjustable to you can get the right angles on the two piece driveshaft. It'll make it so I can lower the truck more if I want and be able to adjust it without buying another bracket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 472 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...