Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock

Part #: PL8140

http://www.popandlock.net/Power_Tailgate_Lock/Power_GM_Tailgate_Lock/Power_Sierra?product_id=141

 

 

1) Unlock & lower tailgate.

 

2) Remove (8) torx/star screws from inner tailgate access panel.

 

3) Remove panel and you'll see lock assembly [pic 002]

 

4) Remove old retailer clip & cam arm [pic 003]

 

5) Replace with new cam arm & retailer clip [pic 003]

 

6) Remove bolt on lock side, and place power assembly inside, lining up existing holes [pic 004]

 

7) Make sure metal slide in between white plastic prongs, next to cam arm, then replace & tighten bolt [pic 005]

 

 

post-34923-0-56411700-1388527643_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-06234500-1388527702_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-85537100-1388528785_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-22844900-1388529179_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-03765700-1388529322_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-56411700-1388527643_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-06234500-1388527702_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-85537100-1388528785_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-22844900-1388529179_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-03765700-1388529322_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-56411700-1388527643_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-06234500-1388527702_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-85537100-1388528785_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-22844900-1388529179_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-03765700-1388529322_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-56411700-1388527643_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-06234500-1388527702_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-85537100-1388528785_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-22844900-1388529179_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-03765700-1388529322_thumb.jpg

  • Like 22
Posted (edited)

..continued....

 

8) Feed the shorter of two wires provided into openings at bottom of tailgate. Blue & green bullets go to handle & plug end goes to spare tire. [pic 006]

 

DO NOT SECURE OR ZIP TIE ANYTHING YET!

 

9) Connect the plug to the longer wiring provided and walk end over to driver's door. Don't worry about routing the wires now.. you want to make sure it works first!

 

10) Remove driver's kick panel and then smaller panel covering wiring. That second panel is a pain-in-the-A! It functions like a hinged cover, with red circles being where it clasps & red lines being the hinge point [pic 007]

 

11) Now for the wiring... it's a cluster! The instructions don't help much here. You're looking for a tan w/ yellow stripe & a solid gray wire. With my PowerPro I was eventually able to find the correct two. When you're looking for them, start in the top corner closest to the gas/brake pedals, and look for wires that are ever so slightly thicker than the rest. [pic 008]

 

12) Feed the tailgate wiring through the parking brake grommet under the carpet. It's tight as hell, so as long as you don't make a big hole in it, it won't leak. [pic 009]

 

13) Connect the green wire to tan/yellow (looked brown/yellow to me) and the blue wire to solid gray. Test lock/unlock feature.

 

14) If everything works, you can unplug the longer wire provided & begin snaking it from the front of truck to spare tire area, plug it back in, zip tie wherever, replace all panels, etc... and you're finished.

post-34923-0-83585500-1388529570_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-44202600-1388529947_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-72704200-1388530635_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-16004800-1388530671_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-83585500-1388529570_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-44202600-1388529947_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-72704200-1388530635_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-16004800-1388530671_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-83585500-1388529570_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-44202600-1388529947_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-72704200-1388530635_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-16004800-1388530671_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-83585500-1388529570_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-44202600-1388529947_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-72704200-1388530635_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-16004800-1388530671_thumb.jpg

Edited by RyanbabZ71
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

..continued....

 

One last thing!

The key cylinder on tailgate will now function differently!

It is always stays in the vertical position, so...

..turn counter-clockwise then back to 12 to unlock

..turn clockwise then back to 12 to lock.

post-34923-0-14920300-1388587877_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-14920300-1388587877_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-14920300-1388587877_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-14920300-1388587877_thumb.jpg

Edited by MotoMedic
  • Like 4
Posted

Ok, with as cheap as this is and simple I am interested in it now.

Posted

Moto,

 

Thanks for the thorough description of installation and pics. I'm going to buy the kit now!

Posted

..with as cheap as this is and simple..

Exactly. This should be standard equipment for every full-size truck made today... or at least a factory option.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thank you for the Great how to As always.. ;)

 

My next project.:D

Posted

Thanks for sharing the how to install the power lock. I am seriously considering purchasing this lock. I planned on having a shop install it, but after reading your thread, it looks pretty simple.

Posted

10) Remove driver's kick panel and then smaller panel covering wiring. That second panel is a pain-in-the-A! It functions like a hinged cover, with red circles being where it clasps & red lines being the hinge point [pic 007]

 

Moto..Did you use any tool to remove the second panel or did you pull the panel away with some force from red circle side towards the red line side?

Posted

10) Remove driver's kick panel and then smaller panel covering wiring. That second panel is a pain-in-the-A! It functions like a hinged cover, with red circles being where it clasps & red lines being the hinge point [pic 007]

 

Moto..Did you use any tool to remove the second panel or did you pull the panel away with some force from red circle side towards the red line side?

I used a really small flat head screwdriver to get the little tabs to release. It's a pain b/c they're pressed up against carpet & driver's seat, so not much room to work with.

Posted

Thanks for the write up? How long did it take you? Curious as I want to do my Amp Steps and the tail gate lock all at once. Especially since I will have to remove the kick panels for both.

Posted

Thanks for the write up? How long did it take you? Curious as I want to do my Amp Steps and the tail gate lock all at once. Especially since I will have to remove the kick panels for both.

Took me a good while b/c I was making sure I documented the steps and locating/testing the correct wires in that bundle was a huge pain. Average skilled person, using my pics of wiring bundle, should take 30 mins or less.

  • Like 1
Posted

MotoMedic, thanks for the excellent write up. Is there a trick to get the wire thru the grommet with out much damage? Also what is the powerpro you speak of? I know it is not the fishing line I use. :)

 

Thanks again for the work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...