Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just ordered mine. Much needed to compliment my Pace Edwards Bedlocker. Hoping install is as easy as it sounds.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the write up? How long did it take you? Curious as I want to do my Amp Steps and the tail gate lock all at once. Especially since I will have to remove the kick panels for both.

I had a shop do my AMP power steps and it took 2 of them 4 hours to do it and all of the door panels on all 4 doors had to come off.

Posted

I installed my tailgate lock and AMP power steps at home on the ground. I took my time and did during a few nights after work. I think it took me about 5 to 6 hours. I could do it all again now in about 3 hours. The new power steps have a OBD2 port connections option that everyone should get as it saves needless work and reduces chance of damage a lot. However the passthrough harness is sold seperate, I'm still waiting on mine to arrive. I have to decide to use steps or log time on my snap-shot device that has already saved me about $275 every six months.

Posted

I installed my tailgate lock and AMP power steps at home on the ground. I took my time and did during a few nights after work. I think it took me about 5 to 6 hours. I could do it all again now in about 3 hours. The new power steps have a OBD2 port connections option that everyone should get as it saves needless work and reduces chance of damage a lot. However the passthrough harness is sold seperate, I'm still waiting on mine to arrive. I have to decide to use steps or log time on my snap-shot device that has already saved me about $275 every six months.

Where did you order the passthru harness from? Curious how you like it once it is installed. Thinking of getting one myself.

Posted

I just ordered mine on Tuesday FedEx is scheduled to deliver deliver tomorrow

Posted

Where did you order the passthru harness from? Curious how you like it once it is installed. Thinking of getting one myself.

Ordered it from the vender at work I got the steps from. Thought it would be a part of the steps and didn't ask. Now I'm waiting on them to get it from AMP, so I can get it from them. It allows you to move the factory port from the bracket. Then you connect the pass-through to it and place it's open port into the bracket. Then there is a second open port to plug the steps into. Can't imagine they could do better unless they made the wires to long.

Posted (edited)

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the way to the engine compartment and went in through the large grommet under the brake booster. Then I connected the blue and green wire to the grey/green and brown/yellow coming from the x6 bcm connector(pink) just to the right of e-brake pedal. Pins 2 and 4 as per http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf page 155 and 156.

What I did was skim a very small amount of wire insulation off and soldered the wires together.

To me it seemed a lot easier then taking apart the door sill.

 

 

edit:

 

Oh yeah, 1 click of the remote unlocks the drivers door only, and 2 clicks unlocks the rest including the tailgate

Edited by black-n-gold
  • Like 5
Posted (edited)

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the way to the engine compartment and went in through the large grommet under the brake booster. Then I connected the blue and green wire to the grey/green and brown/yellow coming from the x6 bcm connector(pink) just to the right of e-brake pedal. Pins 2 and 4 as per http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf page 155 and 156.

What I did was skim a very small amount of wire insulation off and soldered the wires together.

To me it seemed a lot easier then taking apart the door sill.

 

 

edit:

 

Oh yeah, 1 click of the remote unlocks the drivers door only, and 2 clicks unlocks the rest including the tailgate

Great information I think I will do the connection this way, thanks for the link

Edited by Bonker
Posted

I installed mine last weekend without a problem, of course with Motos instructions. Great write up!

Posted

I just finished my install today I looked at Black-n-Gold's instructions but I followed Moto's instructions it's much easier to solder the connections when they are right in front of you. I used the grey green wire so that when I hit the remote twice the tailgate opens with the other doors. Thanks for the write up Moto.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I had installed the tailgate lock and my ARE cap lock on my 2012 Silverado. These worked great when coming out from hunting in the dark. Used the remote instead of fumbling with keys in the dark. Will be installing the same tailgate lock and ARE cap lock on the new truck this weekend. Black-n-Gold's connection to the X6 BCM connector is the way to go. No messing with the sill plate. Using the cap lock's wiring cable though because it is a heavier gauge wiring and I am controlling two locks. Better safe than sorry. I don't know if other caps can come with an electric lock but, the ARE cap lock works great and the cap looks great on the truck.

post-133660-0-90239800-1409339480_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-49477500-1409340033_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-62071700-1409340060_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-90239800-1409339480_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-49477500-1409340033_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-62071700-1409340060_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-90239800-1409339480_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-49477500-1409340033_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-62071700-1409340060_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-90239800-1409339480_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-49477500-1409340033_thumb.jpg

post-133660-0-62071700-1409340060_thumb.jpg

Edited by edbad
  • Like 1
Posted

I like this idea, definitely going to look into this…

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the way to the engine compartment and went in through the large grommet under the brake booster. Then I connected the blue and green wire to the grey/green and brown/yellow coming from the x6 bcm connector(pink) just to the right of e-brake pedal. Pins 2 and 4 as per http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf page 155 and 156.

What I did was skim a very small amount of wire insulation off and soldered the wires together.

To me it seemed a lot easier then taking apart the door sill.

 

 

edit:

 

Oh yeah, 1 click of the remote unlocks the drivers door only, and 2 clicks unlocks the rest including the tailgate

Got mine done in 40 minutes using these instructions.

 

Still had to pull the door seal to get the cord routed thru the grommet under the carpet instead of running it into the engine compartment.

 

7c55917579b61a8598c00ea806670c58.jpg

 

3803757052c3f000525250c335d56e7a.jpg

 

Don't know why this isn't standard equipment on these trucks. Two more wires in the harness and a 10 dollar actuator is not much to ask.

Edited by Smoothbassman
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...