Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The disturbing thing in all of this is...there are 3 or 4 different "fixes" and non are related to each other!

 

At what point do we all say ok...I need a starter, battery cable and computer update for a security issue?

 

Let's not even talk about a frozen "flapper"!

 

Come on GM...get you poop in a group.

Posted

Well gang, here I am to join you all. My 2014 GMC (13,000 kms) failed to start this morning at a shopping mall, after 20 minutes of driving time. I got hold of OnStar and they got a tow truck going ASAP. Outside temp was plus 8 c.

 

So, while waiting for the tow truck, I kept trying and got the same result, lot's of available voltage, dash lights up, but no click, just silence. But get this, lock the truck and use the remote start. The truck fired right up (no unusual noise from starter) then ran for 10 seconds then shut down, on it's own. Try the key, no turning over, nothing. Try the remote start again, truck fired up again, then shut down. I did this five or six times. Truck won't stay running with key but does temporarily with remote start.

 

So I sat and waited for the tow truck. Another 20 minutes and the tow truck guy came. I watched him hook up, and just for laughs, I thought I'd try the key again. It fired right up. Duh-oh. Then it worked every time.

 

So I'm thinking this is a heat thing. So I got the guy to leave my GMC running while we towed to my local dealership. We got there, I got the service writer to come out for a demonstration. It started up every time. Double Duh-oh!

 

I've left it there as it needs GM recalls 13330, 14008, 13370, 13257 anyhow.

 

I'll keep you posted.

So the updates were all done ASAP this morning at my local GM dealer.

 

And the update #13257 covered this defect as a reprogram. "BCM Communication Error". I figure it's to do with an engine run signal. Makes sense. Remote start works to get the unit running, but there is no engine run signal so the truck thinks just that.....that the engine's not running, so it shuts off the remote system off, thus shutting down the truck.

 

There is an engine run signal to cut out the starter when the engine is running plus other reasons as well. Nobody can purposely burn out a starter that way. "Who would want to do that?"

 

Seems all good after a 75 km road test this evening. I stopped and started about 10 times and everything starter circuit works well, first time, every time.

  • Like 2
Posted

Is there a range of VINs or build dates that have the no start problem, or is it pretty much a luck of the draw when it comes to picking out a truck thats already on a lot?

Posted
Is there a range of VINs or build dates that have the no start problem, or is it pretty much a luck of the draw when it comes to picking out a truck thats already on a lot?

 

In my opinion it's luck of the draw. A friend and my uncle bought one and they have had no problems mine did however.

Posted

In my opinion it's luck of the draw. A friend and my uncle bought one and they have had no problems mine did however.

Best to have them check with your dealer anyhow and see if their truck(s) is due for the #13257. My truck was starting fine with no issues till last Saturday morning. No warning, no check engine lights prior. I stopped for ten minutes to go to the bank, came back out and the unit refused to turn over. Dead in the water!

 

Good thing the weather was nice so the tow truck was just over a half an hour to show. It wasn't brutal cold....I carry survival gear anyhow and I was at a mall so no big deal. The next time someone else has this starter system fail, it could be a serious situation.

  • Like 1
Posted

The dealer I've been talking to has two in stock, one double cab and a regular cab longbed. The longbed is an earlier build.

HE shot me a great price on the double cab and really wants my trade ('13 Camaro)

We'll see.

Posted (edited)

-8 degrees f....WONT START AGAIN! At dealer now...drinking coffee as they put on a new starter on freshh from the brown truck delivery man.

 

My salesman just came in... for my troubles they're giving me mud flaps that I just priced... for free!

 

Hell I'm irritated but not angry... and that's at GM not the dealer

Edited by strike1st
Posted
-8 degrees f....WONT START AGAIN! At dealer now...drinking coffee as they put on a new starter on freshh from the brown truck delivery man.

My salesman just came in... for my troubles they're giving me mud flaps that I just priced... for free!

Hell I'm irritated but not angry... and that's at GM not the dealer

 

 

Did you already have a new starter installed or had you been waiting for them to get one in stock?

 

Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Did you already have a new starter installed or had you been waiting for them to get one in stock? Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk

They took one off an existing vehicle that was built in December thinking the starter was new enough...because they had run out. Today they said they had a few more come in dead...I'm the only one though that has only had their truck for 5 days and not have it start twice. it has 83 miles on it.

Posted (edited)

 

 

Did you already have a new starter installed or had you been waiting for them to get one in stock? Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk They took one off an existing vehicle that was built in December thinking the starter was new enough...because they had run out. Today they said they had a few more come in dead...I'm the only one though that has only had their truck for 5 days and not have it start twice. it has 83 miles on it.
Thanks..mine is at the dealer now waiting for a new starter. Last week it was a daily routine...wouldn't start in the morning. This is the 2nd time in the dealer, maybe I should "look" at mud flaps when I go pick it up :-) Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk Edited by chelmer
Posted

Thanks..mine is at the dealer now waiting for a new started. Last week it was a daily routine...wouldn't start in the morning. This is the 2nd time in the dealer, maybe I should "look" at mud flaps when I go pick it up :-) Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk

 

It wouldn't hurt! I wasn't going to refuse them!

Posted

Sorry to hear that your still having problems strike, 2 degrees here and my truck fired right up this morning. Im hoping that will be the fix for you and hey atleast your getting mud flaps for free.

Posted

Sorry to hear that your still having problems strike, 2 degrees here and my truck fired right up this morning. Im hoping that will be the fix for you and hey atleast your getting mud flaps for free.

Thanks! I have never had a dealer treat me this well...I'm thankful and impressed.

Posted

I'm just curious. How many miles are on these tucks with the starting problems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...