Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't have mirrors or a switch yet (made an offer on eBay and wtg to hear still) but I did pull my door card off, drivers side, and it looks like the pins for power in and out are there (comparing to diagram above). I for sure won't be able to have the turn signals though, as they're not wired on this harness. If anyone wants to double check me on these pictures and tell me if you see the same, id appreciate it. Thx!

C08B5BF8-A416-4EC5-A07A-5B59D0393F62.jpg

And one of my harness ID

69A965D2-7EDE-4B09-8AE9-2BB92800D4C9.jpg

Posted

Your harness is definately missing some of the pins (and I assume the wires). My Yukon's harness had every pin in the chart I posted above.

Posted

Ha! That it is! I think I may have to buy a switch, install it, and then take the door card off and ck the pins with a voltmeter. I can only assume pin 4 & pin 18 would have power when the fold in/out was being used. If that works, I'll then invest more in the mirrors.

Posted

Where can one find the honey hole to buy tow mirrors with power fold,turn signal,puddle light. Also looking for the part numbers for said mirrors my dealer is no help. Thanks

Posted (edited)

Put them on tonight and they fit perfectly and the quality is pretty damn good. The only difference is that they have 4 mount bolts and the stock mirrors only had 3, you can pull the extra bolt out or drill a hole (it's already marked) and secure it down as well. I'll get some picks up tomorrow when the sun comes up. It got too dark for pics today

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by sailor9908
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Any updates on this?

Put them on tonight and they fit perfectly and the quality is pretty damn good. The only difference is that they have 4 mount bolts and the stock mirrors only had 3, you can pull the extra bolt out or drill a hole (it's already marked) and secure it down as well. I'll get some picks up tomorrow when the sun comes up. It got too dark for pics today

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Any updates on this?

Here you go. Installation was easy, hardest part was putting my door panels back on in the dark, hahaha.

bfe42b21514fa6de22995db5d0a3d86a.jpga74e58f9c499f594894fb39a8ec2eba3.jpgf9976bac627049af63b6ee103e2daad0.jpg3aaf5cb0a03be88e483a825be9507be3.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by sailor9908
Posted

Here you go. Installation was easy, hardest part was putting my door panels back on in the dark, hahaha. bfe42b21514fa6de22995db5d0a3d86a.jpga74e58f9c499f594894fb39a8ec2eba3.jpgf9976bac627049af63b6ee103e2daad0.jpg3aaf5cb0a03be88e483a825be9507be3.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Looks good. Nice colr choice on the silvy too
Posted

Ha! That it is! I think I may have to buy a switch, install it, and then take the door card off and ck the pins with a voltmeter. I can only assume pin 4 & pin 18 would have power when the fold in/out was being used. If that works, I'll then invest more in the mirrors.

 

 

Hmm, this is interesting. I am anxious to see what you find out, too, Lagerman.

 

I received my switch the other night and tested it with a voltmeter, and unless I was slipping off the pins, I get a solid power reading when the fold/unfold button is pushed. Going to go ahead and purchase some mirrors, but it may be a month or so before I get to it. I'll update once I get them with my final findings.

Posted

From my research that is correct. You need some DL3 mirrors and switch 23154702. I've reached out to smokey1300 who has been successful at this. You do need to look at the female end of you harness within your door to see if you have the pins for the powerfold. Looks like pin 18 from the diagram above. The puddle light and signals will not work without changing the door harness though. I don't think anyone has chimed in that they replaced the door harness and got the signal and puddle lights to work but your also looking at about $80-$90 for each harness.

I got the mirrors - even though my door harness has the turn signal pins wired up, only the power fold works - no luck on the turn signals.

 

I will try the new harness next.

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

I am in the middle of working on replacing DL8 mirrors from my Mexico built 2015 Silverado Crew Cab with DL3's.

 

I got a great deal on the DL3 mirrors, $350 for driver and passenger mirrors and both door harnesses. The guy I bought from took the DL3's off of his 2015 2500HD and added the DQS tow mirrors. I also purchased the switch mentioned on this thread, 23154702, for $50. All together $400 for mirrors, harnesses and the switch.

 

This past weekend I installed the new mirrors and harnesses as well as the switch. It took me about 3 or so hours and was fairly simple. Once I installed everything I tried testing it all and was partially successful.

 

So most everyone mentioned that they got the mirrors to fold using the 23154702 switch and the existing DL8 harnesses. I never tried using the new switch and the original harnesses b/c I had the harnesses for the DL3's that I installed. With the new harnesses and switch I was able to get the blinkers, puddle lights and heated mirrors to work. But I cannot get the mirrors to fold in/out or to change directional position. I do hear the relay click or engage when I press the power fold button on the switch but nothing happens.

 

Do I need to get these mirrors programmed or turned on in the BCM? The switch was brand new so it was never coded to a VIN before. Are the DL3's from the 2500 not compatible with the 1500? The 2500 DL3's have a temperature sensor where the 1500 DL3's don't.

 

Anyway, I can confirm that with the new harness blinkers and puddle lights will work. But now I need advice on how to get the mirrors to fold and how to be able to get the glass to change position again, currently only drivers mirror up and down works.

Edited by jbreeds09
Posted

Interesting - do you have the part number of the harnesses you installed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,864 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...