Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Same thing happening to me too.....

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT. Bought an entire overhead console with everything already in it. Installed it, I get power to the home link system, but when I go to learn the garage door opener, the light never flashes rapidly, only slowly while trying to learn.....

Posted

When I did this for my wife's traverse, the instructions in the owners manual did not work. I had to perform the pairing using the garage door opener instruction. Since moving to a new house, I have since decided not to use homelink on the traverse or my truck.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I spent time talking to Homelink on the phone. They tried everything They said they think the homelinks were faulty. I had 2 different ones from the same place and neither worked. That is why I wanted to know where Justin101714 got his. If it was the same place?

Edited by carnut325
  • Like 1
Posted

I bought mine off of eBay. I sent the other one back. Got another one and that one does the same thing, flashes slowly and never learns. These things should only require power and ground and everything else is internal to the module.

Posted

I spent time talking to Homelink on the phone. They tried everything They said they think the homelinks were faulty. I had 2 different ones from the same place and neither worked. That is why I wanted to know where Justin101714 got his. If it was the same place?

I've had the same problem. Bought from the same guy on eBay and then purchased just the transmitter from a separate vendor with no luck. When looking at the wiring harness , there are 3 wires going into the home link transmitter. Does anyone know if they are now trying to run this through the computer? Or have a wiring diagram? Was thinking maybe I can clip and retire if necessary.

Posted

stonephillips18 Is your truck a Silverado LT? TAZZIN Installed his piece by piece and it worked....why He has a video on this thread on page 3

Posted

Hey ladies & gents,

 

Just to give a quick update on this, I know this is a bit late but for anyone else wanting to know this. You FIRST need to go to some place like www.gmpartsonline.net and drill down to you make/year/model and ensure there is a option for a replacement for the trim/harness/buttons/transmiiter for your vehicle, IF you DO see these options, you more than likely will be able to do this OEM style and not aftermarket (not guaranteed based on you situation). The transmitter for mine is as stated by another guy, that all is needs is power, it doesn't connect to anything else like the vehicle computer or anything, it is self contained. I decided to do the research on this after being told from the dealership, "You can't add this to your vehicle".. Upon researching this myself, I found I could buy a new harness (to have the OEM HomeLink plug on it), Trim plate (to be able to add the buttons), the buttons themselves and the transmitter. All in all I think I spent about 180.00 to keep it OEM. I WAS able to do it. I have a video that show tips and tricks on a 2014 silverado LT and changing the said above parts on the overhead console.. I made a youtube video on this make/model/color for my truck. I seriously hope is helps others wanting to do the same thing. I also upgraded my OEM 4.2" radio (i04) without OEM backup camera to a 8" (i05 - no nav) with OEM backup camera on the same truck. I'm getting together a small video on this as well and post it on my channel in youtube.

 

 

Some of us tried to install the homelink After install the unit lights up LED flashes slowly when trying to learn remote but never learns the transmitter code. Any ideas why? thanks

Posted

2014 LT. I saw his video...Didn't do mine piece by piece, but purchased one on eBay that was already put together. Did you ever get yours working?

No purchased on ebay also got two of them neither worked weird Tazzin's worked

Posted

I've had the same problem. Bought from the same guy on eBay and then purchased just the transmitter from a separate vendor with no luck. When looking at the wiring harness , there are 3 wires going into the home link transmitter. Does anyone know if they are now trying to run this through the computer? Or have a wiring diagram? Was thinking maybe I can clip and retire if necessary.

Yeah I figured power,light, and ground

Posted

Never showed proof that it worked did he? the unit receives power from Fuse 3 left instrument panel fuse block, it's a 10 amp fuse. The circuit #240 comes down to connector x316, which is the headliner to overhead console harness, then continues to the module. It gets a ground from G210 which is underneath the dash extension panel on the passenger side below the windshield. His ground grounds multiple components. The unit is reviewing power and ground properly. There is an internal logic in the module that isn't really explained as to what it does, so I don't know if it keeps any VIN information or not. This module is not tied into any other modules, so I don't see how it would matter as far as any VIN information would go. The damn thing should just work.

Posted

I also read in GM service information that if you can't get the remote to learn to the module, you must program directly to the garage door opener itself. As in, pull the vehicle in the garage, but the learn button on the opening motor, you have 30 seconds to learn the vehicle to it. He garage door motor light should flash when learning is complete.

Posted

Homelinks only need power and ground to work, they are not on the CANBUS system. Make sure to hold the outside two buttons down for 10+ seconds to clear any stored memory positions. The light will flash fast once this is done. Then while holding the GDO opener below the Homelink module push the button on the HL you want to use and the GDO opener button at the same time. Hold them both down until the HL light flashes fast.

 

That part of the process only programs the GDO opener rolling code to the HL module, now you need to tell the GDO opener head unit that the HL module is a allowed remote. Press the learn button on the back of the GDO head unit and then press and hold the button you used in the above process on the HL module. If the process is done correctly the GDO head unit should flash the garage light to let you know the opener is programmed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...