Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There is a fix (reprogram) for UQ3 equipped trucks only.

 

I don't have the UQ3 I have UQA - BOSE AUDIO SYSTEM. I guess nothing else has come up on this. It is very load.

 

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

 

I don't have the UQ3 I have UQA - BOSE AUDIO SYSTEM. I guess nothing else has come up on this. It is very load.

 

I have uqa and I can adjust the volume in my settings

How can I tell if my truck is UQ3 or UQA?

There is a list of codes in your glove box

Posted

I had the radio reprogramming done to my 2015 this week. You could hardly notice any difference. Sort of a waste of time. If I would have known the outcome I wouldn't have bothered. Especially since it's an avoidable annoyance in the sense that you don't hear it if you buckle up first.

Posted

I have uqa and I can adjust the volume in my settings

I have the volume setting also but it does not change it any lower.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I've only had my '15 Silverado a day and that chime already drives me nuts. I haven't turned down the volume yet (learned about that here), but I can say it is WAY louder than the new Fords we have at work. There has to be SOMETHING that can be done. That chime covers more than just the seatbelt

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I have this same problem in my 2014 GMC Sierra.

 

I had the dealer take a look at it, after giving them the heads up on the bulletin. They performed the steps that were listed but it did not fix them problem. After looking at it a second day, they came back and said it is the 'amplifier' that is faulty, and it would cost $740 to replace. Since I have 40,000+ miles, it is no longer under warranty.

 

Like others have mentioned, the chime is associated with the seat belts, so buckling up before starting resolves that part of the issue. However, the loud chime also occurs for the proximity sensors. It is also an occasional loudness as well.

 

The problem isn't worth the $740 cost, so I suppose I will just deal with it for now.

Posted

I posted this in the other threads about this chime. Just buy one of these:

http://www.seatbeltextenderpros.com/chevrolet-silverado-seat-belt-extender/

 

 

Get the 3" rigid one in the color to match your interior. They are the only manufacturer that meets all the safety ratings. Leave it plugged in and the chime is gone (well the seatbelt part - it doesn't help with the other times but they don't happen too often).

Posted

I would have thought the 15s, 16s, or 17s would have corrected some of these customer reported nuisance items. You have to admit, the damn chime gets your attention and more often than not, gets you to put on the belt. :crackup:

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I have the uq3 truck. How do I get the reprogram? Does the dealer do it, is it free?

Posted

Anyone?

 

Responded in your other thread. The dealer does it. I don't have the TSB number handy but you need to ask about it. If your truck is out of warranty they will charge you the labor time to do it.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Responded in your other thread. The dealer does it. I don't have the TSB number handy but you need to ask about it. If your truck is out of warranty they will charge you the labor time to do it.

I saw the other thread, thanks man.

Posted

My dealer told me they would do the TSB for free for me since I just bought the truck. Anyone have a link where I can read about the TSB, I'm looking for the TSB number.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,381 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...