Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good question, it does not appear to be coming off in sheets . I have no rust as I am getting out of storage. That said I am going to spray all my cab mounts and any perches welded on frame . Daubert say 6 to 8 mil thick for best protection. My opinion is these areas have coating that is closer to 4 mill thick not 7 or 8.

Posted

Good question, it does not appear to be coming off in sheets . I have no rust as I am getting out of storage. That said I am going to spray all my cab mounts and any perches welded on frame . Daubert say 6 to 8 mil thick for best protection. My opinion is these areas have coating that is closer to 4 mill thick not 7 or 8.

Yea I'm not sure if I should take it in or not. This is a 3 month old truck though..

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I wonder what that shit does to the water and environment. I'm personally for the idea of using nothing or very little. Most people shouldn't be on the road when it snows. They suck at driving.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I wonder the same thing, it can't be good for drinking water. I wish they'd just go back to plowing and that's it.

Posted

Rust will always be an issue for any truck, even the aluminum wonder truck. Keeeping rust away is ultimately up to the owner.

Ultimately, yes. I can see a little rust. I am sure that most owners would accept it without too much fuss. My main issue is GM telling me it's "normal." If I can crawl under my wife's 2010 Avalanche and it looks a little better after 100,000 miles than mine at 8,000 I am going to take issue with it. It is logical to assume that there is or was a difference in some of the frames either not getting cleaned prior to dipping or a problem with the dip coating itself. A company should just own up to it. That is how you keep longtime customers and make them happy.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good question, it does not appear to be coming off in sheets . I have no rust as I am getting out of storage. That said I am going to spray all my cab mounts and any perches welded on frame . Daubert say 6 to 8 mil thick for best protection. My opinion is these areas have coating that is closer to 4 mill thick not 7 or 8.

The dip product may not be exactly the same as the 'touch up' product.

Posted

Yes good point . Even tho it is same product it could be different mfg. All the reading I have read on the hot wax dip is the actual temperature as it relates to thickness. Wax temp. to low it don't flow well over everything on dip. Wax temp. to high and flows good but dry thickness may only be 4 or 5 mil thick. Daubert say 7or8 mil dry thickness is ideal and best durability without premature ''washout'' much like a paint won't last very long applied lighter than mfg spec. My frame looks like it is reasonable thickness except during MFG assembly of vehicle where it was held or clamped . Them marred surface areas it looks like they just smeared off surrounding area and smeared it over the scare . Some of my vertical frame perches and mounts look not as thick as frame too. I will beef them areas up with more wax and see what happens I guess.

Posted

Frames are stacked, with spacers between them, when loaded on the railcars for trip from supplier to assembly plant. Some of the smearing may be at the spacer locations.

Posted

Was at a Chevrolet dealer today and looked at a couple of frames of used trucks through the rear wheel wells. Two 2016s looked pretty good while one 2014/2015 looked atrocious. I've seen better frames on 10 year old trucks. It had a nice bright orange patina on the frame.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

b6673780e8c60296669e0cc6f3de2cf9.jpg3e943676d4695791eb635b92089149db.jpg5c5f0e46f14e7ba6e72434a6feb66443.jpg3fd5d01e40f28269362e5d5366061a0c.jpg

 

Do you guys think this rust is bad enough to address with my dealer? On the fence about it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll tell ya on Friday when mine goes in. I should takes pic too of it. It's similar to yours.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

I'll tell ya on Friday when mine goes in. I should takes pic too of it. It's similar to yours.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Yes let me know! I'm going to at least bring it up when I'm in for my oil change in May. Get in on record in case it gets bad. The 2014/2015 I saw today had rust in the same areas but 10x worse.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes let me know! I'm going to at least bring it up when I'm in for my oil change in May. Get in on record in case it gets bad. The 2014/2015 I saw today had rust in the same areas but 10x worse.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are some members here who had rust like the truck was sitting in the ocean floor bed. Mine never got so bad. One thing you want to check because I looked when I was taking pictures as proof. check the area around where they put the bars to raise your truck to do the oil change or inspection. I found those areas the wax was completely removed and rust taken hold. Very shocked by that.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

attachicon.gif20160323_213622.jpgattachicon.gif20160323_213703.jpg

 

This is what mine looks like directly underneath the truck.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

What year and how many miles?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What year and how many miles?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2014 with 14250 miles on it. Drive it on trips and only on the weekends. Rest of the time it sits inside the garage. I baby this thing and it got to this level.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...