Jump to content

Frame Wax/Undercoating

eric.warner.549
 Share

Recommended Posts

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

 

Can you take pictures of where it's coming off? Mine was built the exact same time as yours, haven't noticed the obvious spots yet. I'll take look right underneath later on today.

 

I talked to a rep from Krown who also does oil spray in Canada, they stated that spraying over the wax will actually speed up the deterioration which leaves me stumped on which way to go before the snow and salt flies.

 

I can take pictures after work and get them posted later this evening.

 

I have read to that oils, such as Fluid Film, will nearly take off the wax coating. I am not sure what to do with the frame. I will be spraying the underbody at least, as well as any surface which doesn't have the wax coating.

  • Replies 305
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Silverado-Hareek
Silverado-Hareek

Most likely. I swear this is the last first edition vehicle I ever buy from any manufacturer. If it hasn't been out for at least a model year or 2, I'm walking away.

Graphic
Graphic

My 2014 Silverado z71 ltz was a lemon. The frame rust was the final straw. I fixed mine by trading it in on a new ram. After 25 years of GM trucks, I have to say that it was like losing an old frien

Graphic
Graphic

2015 Ram Sport Crew Cab 1500 4x4. Love it. My Silverado started showing problems after day one, little things, then bigger, then frame rust and that was enough for me. Took a loss, but I walso

Posted Images

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

 

I have read to that oils, such as Fluid Film, will nearly take off the wax coating.

 

 

This is a pretty overblown claim that you've read. I've applied FF 3 times since I bought this truck and have had zero issues with it "taking the wax right off" like some swear it will. I'd be happy to provide more pictures. After coating the wax, it became slightly softer and seems to almost self-heal now, but still sticks to the frame just fine. The last thing you want is the factory wax to become hard. Hard wax likes to become brittle and either peel away frome the frame like we've seen in this thread, or worse, wick water and road salt between it and the steel frame, rotting the steel while looking like it's still protected by the coating.

 

I was just under my truck last week and found large areas under the bed that I missed while applying the FF and those areas look just like COP TZR's frame. The wax is flaking away and peeling at the edges of the cross members. So now I have to scrape all the wax off, apply rust converter, paint it, and hit it with FF. Why would I apply the same shitty wax that failed to do it's job the first time, not only on my truck but every guy that's been to this thread for help. That's just stupidity. It's not like the K2XX trucks suddenly have an issue with wax peeling off the frame that GMT900 trucks didn't have. Look under any GMT900 truck in the Midwest or Northeast and it'll be pretty obvious.

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

 

Can you take pictures of where it's coming off? Mine was built the exact same time as yours, haven't noticed the obvious spots yet. I'll take look right underneath later on today.

 

I talked to a rep from Krown who also does oil spray in Canada, they stated that spraying over the wax will actually speed up the deterioration which leaves me stumped on which way to go before the snow and salt flies.

 

Sorry I didn't get the pictures today. I will have a lot more time after work tomorrow to do this.

 

 

This is a pretty overblown claim that you've read. I've applied FF 3 times since I bought this truck and have had zero issues with it "taking the wax right off" like some swear it will. I'd be happy to provide more pictures. After coating the wax, it became slightly softer and seems to almost self-heal now, but still sticks to the frame just fine. The last thing you want is the factory wax to become hard. Hard wax likes to become brittle and either peel away frome the frame like we've seen in this thread, or worse, wick water and road salt between it and the steel frame, rotting the steel while looking like it's still protected by the coating.

 

I was just under my truck last week and found large areas under the bed that I missed while applying the FF and those areas look just like COP TZR's frame. The wax is flaking away and peeling at the edges of the cross members. So now I have to scrape all the wax off, apply rust converter, paint it, and hit it with FF. Why would I apply the same shitty wax that failed to do it's job the first time, not only on my truck but every guy that's been to this thread for help. That's just stupidity. It's not like the K2XX trucks suddenly have an issue with wax peeling off the frame that GMT900 trucks didn't have. Look under any GMT900 truck in the Midwest or Northeast and it'll be pretty obvious.

 

I am glad to hear you have had the opposite experience. Maybe Jordan18 and I should just Fluid Film our trucks and be done with it. I could also order a can now and spray a small area of the frame and then see how it is in a couple months from now.

Jordan18 Enthusiast

Jordan18

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry I didn't get the pictures today. I will have a lot more time after work tomorrow to do this.

 

 

 

I am glad to hear you have had the opposite experience. Maybe Jordan18 and I should just Fluid Film our trucks and be done with it. I could also order a can now and spray a small area of the frame and then see how it is in a couple months from now.

I had a look undermine quickly this morning, I cannot see any spots that are peeling off, and this was right after an undercarriage wash. Dust/dirt just sticks to this wax like nothing so it still looks half assed dirty.

 

Will try to snap pics after it dries some more.

Edited by Jordan18
Jordan18 Enthusiast

Jordan18

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bear in mind this is all dust stuck to the wax, and I cannot really see if there are any spots peeling.

 

 

Truck is currently at 6000 miles, have been on a few gravel roads.

 

 

Yes that is my FORD work truck sitting in one of the pictures.

post-79641-0-86278200-1437450309_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-33579900-1437450338_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-13069900-1437450360_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-86278200-1437450309_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-33579900-1437450338_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-13069900-1437450360_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-86278200-1437450309_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-33579900-1437450338_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-13069900-1437450360_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-86278200-1437450309_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-33579900-1437450338_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-13069900-1437450360_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jordan18
Bent-1 Enthusiast

Bent-1

Posted
Posted (edited)

As I mentioned before, my 2012 F150 work truck has a painted frame but after 3 years it is also got lots of rust in different spots on the frame. The paint maybe better than the wax but not much better.

In my 34 years experience in PA, WV, & OH, a factory painted frame sprayed 1x/yr with Fluid Film is an effective rust inhibitor.

 

The painted frames i've seen usually don't flake off in large swaths like the waxed over bare metal frames. Some of the wax strips seen were 2" long.

Edited by Bent-1
Shredzy Enthusiast

Shredzy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dropped my truck off last night at the local Ziebart shop for rustproofing & undercoating.

 

Need all the help one can get to protect it from the WI winters-road salt & liquid road de-icers.

Edited by Shredzy
steelcity Enthusiast

steelcity

Posted
Posted

Nasty stuff but it didn't rust my 12 year old, 135,000 mile jeep frame the way it did my 2013 15,000 mile Avalanche. Jeep frame still looks great. Avalanche looked like it was sitting in the ocean for 50 years.

Bent-1 Enthusiast

Bent-1

Posted
Posted

Nasty stuff but it didn't rust my 12 year old, 135,000 mile jeep frame the way it did my 2013 15,000 mile Avalanche. Jeep frame still looks great. Avalanche looked like it was sitting in the ocean for 50 years.

 

Was the frame on the Jeep painted from the factory?

steelcity Enthusiast

steelcity

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Was the frame on the Jeep painted from the factory?

Yep. And I've had a jack or jack stands under it a thousand times. Any time I would jack up my Avalanche, chunks of wax would come off at the jacking point.

Edited by steelcity
HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Nasty stuff but it didn't rust my 12 year old, 135,000 mile jeep frame the way it did my 2013 15,000 mile Avalanche. Jeep frame still looks great. Avalanche looked like it was sitting in the ocean for 50 years.

 

Damn I can't find a used Wrangler TJ that isn't rotted out here in WI. Must be a regional thing.

 

I noticed the other day that there were a couple guys with frame rust on their new 2015 F-150's. So much for painted frames. I'd still take paint over wax.

Kent2500 Enthusiast

Kent2500

Posted
Posted

it's a ahame GM isn't listening. Ignoring Issues like this reminds me of the old, bloated bureaucracy pre-bankrupsy.

 

There was numerous news reports of GM spending billions upgrading factories lately. Just Internet search on "GM upgrade factories".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...