Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Once i get done with the interior on my truck im going to finish the exhaust. I was looking at Magnaflows cats, you can get them as a stand alone weld/clamp in or with all the pipe from the manifold to where they clamp on to the factory exhaust/cat-back, and come in stainless. Kinda pricy for my truck but i like the fact i can just bolt them in and go.

I was thinking of going with those until I looked at the price. Lol! First I considered a whole new Y-Pipe, but I don't really feel like dealing with that, and it's almost $400. I found some converters by Walker for around $93 a piece. Probably just get those, and have the shop weld them up. Probably have $250-$275 in it total.

Posted

Are your cats bad? For those internet monies I would choose a tune! I would love to tune for 91+ and smooth out the tranny.

Posted

Are your cats bad? For those internet monies I would choose a tune! I would love to tune for 91+ and smooth out the tranny.

I'm not 100% sure. The truck seems like it's down on power on acceleration compared to when I put the motor in. Then there's the flashing engine light issue I get every so often on the interstate. Another member here said once they replaced their converters the flashing engine light went away. I figured between that, and the mileage it's probably a good idea to just go ahead and replace them.

Posted (edited)

Here are a few that I've found so far.

 

 

 

92ef1c60ba8195959444ef4991992ea8.jpg

 

a734445db37dff87799e5826976c16b4.jpg

 

d146c36afc14f364e7f7645e7415751c.jpg

Edited by Daryl Z71
Posted

I replaced the entire y pipe and the o2 sensors and I think my issue was more with the sensors than the cats honestly

Posted

I replaced the entire y pipe and the o2 sensors and I think my issue was more with the sensors than the cats honestly

See, I replaced all four of the sensors last fall, and the truck ran a lot better. Now though it seems like it's sluggish again. The cats are the only thing that are left to replace. I'm not sure if that's the issue, but it's the only thing left.

Posted

Sealed the extended cab window shut, and added some sound deadener to the door panel.

 

 

5b281a51f41fbd44a21b18b4494d8596.jpg

 

64c496e23b1269a94524b14e970d9904.jpg

Posted

I've been eyeing up these seat covers for a while. They're probably what I'll go with when I decide to buy.

 

6996dd4bd12c8fc55092cae316eccf52.jpg

Posted

you looking for them to be waster resistant or just fitted and tough?

 

check these out, supposed to be tough. I been thinking about ordering them myself instead of having the seat redone.

 

https://www.decorauto.com/product/cordura/

Those look nice too. I just want something that'll last and fit good.

Posted

Why more springs?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

More stability, and to prevent it from sagging so much in the rear when I haul my trailer and fourwheelers.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...