Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Do you guys think I could fit this kit behind the passenger seat in a Regular cab? I don't know if the harness for your My-link would be any different from the 4" but anything that maintains the factory warranty while improving the stock sound would be a welcomed addition. Thanks

Posted

how dod you run the power wire?

Power wire just just runs out to the junction block next to the battery, there is a tab or nipple (so to speak) the sticks out of the firewall main harness passthru, just make to small cuts with a blade on under hood and one under dash and your good to go.

Posted

Do you guys think I could fit this kit behind the passenger seat in a Regular cab? I don't know if the harness for your My-link would be any different from the 4" but anything that maintains the factory warranty while improving the stock sound would be a welcomed addition. Thanks

Doubt the sub would fit, may be easier to do a customer box on that one

Posted

Honestly it may fit. Its about 8" thick on the front side facing the front seats and about 5" facing the back wall... If you stood it up vertcally it just may fit.. Maybe your dealer can let you see one if they have one in stock and test fit it.. or find a place with a return policy.... idk how to answer that properly.


It would ROCK in a reg cab!

Posted

Thanks for the input and suggestions Mall. if I can't get a dealer to let me fit one, I'll buy one for the heck of it and return it if I can't make it fit.

  • Like 1
Posted

Can just the amp be purchased and used in a crew cab? I know that the complete kit is not compatible with the Bose System (which I have) and so I did some research and I do not see anything denying that one could put just the sub in a Bose equipped truck. I am considering putting one or 2 of these. 2 would actually match a quote I received from a local shop to have a custom job done with some JLs.

 

I do not have much knowledge when it comes to bass systems or audio systems.

 

Which do yall think would be a better idea? I want something that is tamed when I want it to be but when I'm cruising down the road when the windows down, I want people to know I am there and have a bada$$ system.

 

Thanks in advance. I apologize if this has already been mentioned.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I want to answer this for you. I wouldnt just to do the amp/dsp. Here's why; Low frequency's that used to go to your door speakers(that made them sound so muddy) are pulled from those and sent to the sub, the mids and highs got a boost via the dsp and then the amplifier made it louder overall..

 

Long in short : If you do the AMP/DSP only you'll have a louder tinny hollow sounding listening environment.

 

I dont rock out like I used to and it can be as tame as you want it to be. But when you want it to rock.. it can rock.

Posted

Has any one taken a video showing the enhanced sound? I would love to hear the before and after on this mod.

 

Just go listen to a new Bose truck and add 5 times awesomeness. and call it a day.. lol.. My friend that owns a chevy dealership here in town got in my truck and said, "whoa... Bose sucks"

  • Like 1
Posted

I want to answer this for you. I wouldnt just to do the amp/dsp. Here's why; Low frequency's that used to go to your door speakers(that made them sound so muddy) are pulled from those and sent to the sub, the mids and highs got a boost via the dsp and then the amplifier made it louder overall..

 

Long in short : If you do the AMP/DSP only you'll have a louder tinny hollow sounding listening environment.

 

I dont rock out like I used to and it can be as tame as you want it to be. But when you want it to rock.. it can rock.

So just go with a custom job at the local audio shop? I mean, I'm not worried about what kind of job they will do. Hell, I know the owner and he hooked me up with 2 T1 12" Rockford Fosgate subs with a custom box for my old SUV. I have since sold the SUV and am currently looking for a buyer for the subs. Need to put them up on eBay. Wish I could put those in my new truck. But if I did then I would have to lose the back seat, or find a way to mount them in the bed and have a tunnel for the sound to travel into the cab.

Posted

I actually just bought and installed the entire sound stage in my 2008 crew cab took about 4 hrs to install however I am so disappointed in the sound . They say and all the reviews say how dynamic it makes the sound. It's really bass heavy and I feel like my mid range is gone. They amplify the door speakers but then fade volume to front and the rear speakers are used as a filler .I felt sick to my stomach that this is my 1100 system . Called kicker about low volume from rear speakers they told me to send them amp. So after a week of no radio I call to check on warranty they say nothing wrong with amp. So in a nut shell - put in amp.and sub turn your fade to front and there's your kicker powerstage.

Posted

Wow.. Mine doesn't sound like that at all. No mids scooped, not boomy or flabby bass. If my EQ is set flat its a pretty perfect even tonality across the range. Are you using a MyLink EQ setting or a custom EQ? Sounds like something isn't right to me. I went from having 3 sets of JBL 660Gti's and 2 JBL W15GTi's sealed and a JBL MS8 with proper amps... Even though no system will sound as good as that car from a factory setup perspective ( I won Iasca world finals in SQ 2012 in that car ) I was not disappointed at all with the way it sounds. I feel like something isn't right with your setup.

Posted

So just go with a custom job at the local audio shop? I mean, I'm not worried about what kind of job they will do. Hell, I know the owner and he hooked me up with 2 T1 12" Rockford Fosgate subs with a custom box for my old SUV. I have since sold the SUV and am currently looking for a buyer for the subs. Need to put them up on eBay. Wish I could put those in my new truck. But if I did then I would have to lose the back seat, or find a way to mount them in the bed and have a tunnel for the sound to travel into the cab.

 

In your case I probably would to achieve what you're trying to.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

In your case I probably would to achieve what you're trying to.

Thanks man. I figured I would have to go that route. Just wanted to try to use something OEM approved if I could.

 

I was looking through the vehicle builds the other day and came across this set up, you wouldn't happen to know who it is?

 

 

 

I found it at like 1AM and don't remember where I found it (or rather who's build thread I found it on) and am trying to find it again. Want to copy this. Looks like a great set up! And I know the local shop loves JL.

 

EDIT: nevermind! I found the thread again!

Edited by Mike1220

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...