Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
51 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

Somewhere in the first dozen or so pages of this thread, is the link to download the eBooklet(s) for these trucks.

Latest available is for 2018!  Hopefully will update for 2019.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/21/2018 at 7:43 PM, Roscopcoletrain said:

Success! Took a deep breath, gave it another shot and got it! Yay

Fml it fell out ??‍♂️

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For what it's worth, I gave up on trying to use the 1N4004 diodes that are so often used. The leads were just not stiff enough for me to force into place. Instead, I used some 6a diodes that I had lying around from an earlier project. The diode is quite a bit bigger, but leads are thicker and much stiffer making them SO much easier to push in. I did use@Ravenkeeper 's idea of starting the path with a jeweler's screwdriver, which also helped.

Obviously the 6a diodes are overkill, but they do prevent current backflow, so they work fine. If anyone with more electrical knowledge than I do feels these are not safe somehow, please chime in.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, adverbius said:

For what it's worth, I gave up on trying to use the 1N4004 diodes that are so often used. The leads were just not stiff enough for me to force into place. Instead, I used some 6a diodes that I had lying around from an earlier project. The diode is quite a bit bigger, but leads are thicker and much stiffer making them SO much easier to push in. I did use@Ravenkeeper 's idea of starting the path with a jeweler's screwdriver, which also helped.

Obviously the 6a diodes are overkill, but they do prevent current backflow, so they work fine. If anyone with more electrical knowledge than I do feels these are not safe somehow, please chime in.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

Should be fine - a 6A diode nearly always has a peak or RMS reverse voltage above our truck electrical voltage.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 23/10/2018 at 12:15 PM, OBO said:

Hi everyone, this is a longshot but does anyone if this mod would work on a 2012 GMC Acadia, Thanks

2010-04-19_132224_pic1.gif2010-04-19_132315_pic2.gif

 

If you have a multimeter, check pins 11 and 15 and see what the voltages are with regard to the fog / headlight status.  You may be able to do something similar.  

Posted
4 minutes ago, bgweed said:

2010-04-19_132224_pic1.gif2010-04-19_132315_pic2.gif

 

If you have a multimeter, check pins 11 and 15 and see what the voltages are with regard to the fog / headlight status.  You may be able to do something similar.  

15?  Windshield Washer Relay?  Don’t see HIGH Beams listed on this.

Posted
10 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

15?  Windshield Washer Relay?  Don’t see HIGH Beams listed on this.

Yeah, that way you can flash your lights whenever you spray your windows.  It let's everyone know you can't see for a moment.  

 

Nah I mean 16 - headlamp relay control.  It doesn't say high beams, but maybe OBO will get lucky and it's related to highs.  I don't have a pinout for the other BCM connector that sits next to this one on 1st gen Acadia.

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Does anyone know if the diode jump from low beams or park lights to your fog lights works on a 2018 Sierra?? I done this on my 2015 and loved the fog lights on all the time, I jumped it from my park lights so my fog were always on. Does this work on a 2018 with the LED fog lights? Tks! 

Posted
10 hours ago, SierraBrad said:

Does anyone know if the diode jump from low beams or park lights to your fog lights works on a 2018 Sierra?? I done this on my 2015 and loved the fog lights on all the time, I jumped it from my park lights so my fog were always on. Does this work on a 2018 with the LED fog lights? Tks! 

Did it with my ‘18 Silverado, PIN numbers are the same.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Help please, I have a 2018, 2500hd. Trying to do the fogs and brights. The wire in position 10 is solid brown in mine, directions say it should be brown with white stripe. What are the correct positions for this truck? .Position 18 is brown and violet like the directions suggest. Please let me know if I do 10 and 18 regardless of color or what is correct for the 2018 2500 HD to keep the fogs on with the brights. Thanks .....update....

Answered my own question. Brown wire equals brown with white stripe on my 2018. Use positions in the connector. Also used small tap ons, easy.

 

Edited by Jrs 94
Update
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/15/2018 at 3:20 PM, Jrs 94 said:

Help please, I have a 2018, 2500hd. Trying to do the fogs and brights. The wire in position 10 is solid brown in mine, directions say it should be brown with white stripe. What are the correct positions for this truck? .Position 18 is brown and violet like the directions suggest. Please let me know if I do 10 and 18 regardless of color or what is correct for the 2018 2500 HD to keep the fogs on with the brights. Thanks .....update....

Answered my own question. Brown wire equals brown with white stripe on my 2018. Use positions in the connector. Also used small tap ons, easy.

 

So, did you get it worked out?  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,623 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...