Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Y'all will hate me. I did not test drive mine. Rolled the dice and lucked out. Minor complaihts. 2k miles in now

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Y'all will hate me. I did not test drive mine. Rolled the dice and lucked out. Minor complaihts. 2k miles in now

Here is an update to our purchase. Maybe minor boom remains. However I installed the GM BORLA exhaust and due to its "hum" I don't notice ANYTHING but that, and it's a good thing. We don't have any vibration issues and the buffeting which is/was present is completely not noticeable. I have grown to love this this thing and so far so good. 3500 miles now.

 

2017 LT 20 continental's.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Just joined after reading this entire thread. Unfortunately, I purchased a new 2017 Yukon Denalli XL before reading it. I have the buffeting issue - it's horrible. Sadly, we only took it on a short test drive. Not sure where to start! I'm thinking about going with 20" wheels and the Michelin tires.

Edited by HorsemanAR
Posted (edited)

I just put 20s on with the Bridgestone Duelers. MUCH better, but not gone. MUCH MUCH better tho.

Edited by Jeff Westley
  • Like 1
Posted

Quick update - I went to Discount Tire and ordered a set of Michelin Premier LTX, 22" for existing wheels. Heck of deal, and they gave me a 300 buck credit for the OEM tires. Something is better than nothing. And, they offered their usual 30 day satisfaction guarantee. The manager said if the 22" Michelin tires didn't help, he'd take those back for full refund, and I could order 20" wheels and the same tire in a 20"...and maintain the 300 buck discount on the OEM tires. I was pleased! I'll update when I know more.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So, I posted over a year ago when I purchased my 2016 Yukon Denali.

 

It's been basically fine up until a few weeks ago when I had the vehicle in for an oil change. They checked the alignment (screening diagnostics, in order to generate $) and said mine needed adjustment. I said go for it.

 

Probably should have left well enough alone - as the sleeping giant has awakened (though it could just be coincidence). A unmistakable vibration is getting more and more frequent AND louder and is most noticeable when either holding speed or very slightly accelerating - upper 40's to low 50's seems to be the sweet spot/trigger, but it can also be detected for a very brief moment when the transmission shifts gears.

 

I took the vehicle back in this morning and they re-aligned it and road force balanced the tires, apparently to no avail. Got a loaner and they're going to look closer at it on Monday. I can't say I'm hopeful.

 

In the past couple of months I've also noticed a few quirks - and was wondering if anyone else had experienced this. Just yesterday, while turning into a parking spot (90 degree turn) with the wheel cranked FULLY to the left, it felt like a hard slip of some type - a jolt/bump. Lasted just a moment, but it felt like it really yanked the driveshaft or something. Nothing was in the parking lot to cause this.

 

In addition to this, upon a cold start (in Florida, by no means COLD!) and putting it into gear and pulling out of the garage 3-4 times I've noted what felt like the transmission slip then jolt/catch and then continue on as if nothing happened.

 

Not sure if either of those two things are associated with the problem or not - but thought I'd throw that out there.

 

FINGERS CROSSED

Posted

So, I posted over a year ago when I purchased my 2016 Yukon Denali.

 

It's been basically fine up until a few weeks ago when I had the vehicle in for an oil change. They checked the alignment (screening diagnostics, in order to generate $) and said mine needed adjustment. I said go for it.

 

Probably should have left well enough alone - as the sleeping giant has awakened (though it could just be coincidence). A unmistakable vibration is getting more and more frequent AND louder and is most noticeable when either holding speed or very slightly accelerating - upper 40's to low 50's seems to be the sweet spot/trigger, but it can also be detected for a very brief moment when the transmission shifts gears.

 

I took the vehicle back in this morning and they re-aligned it and road force balanced the tires, apparently to no avail. Got a loaner and they're going to look closer at it on Monday. I can't say I'm hopeful.

 

In the past couple of months I've also noticed a few quirks - and was wondering if anyone else had experienced this. Just yesterday, while turning into a parking spot (90 degree turn) with the wheel cranked FULLY to the left, it felt like a hard slip of some type - a jolt/bump. Lasted just a moment, but it felt like it really yanked the driveshaft or something. Nothing was in the parking lot to cause this.

 

In addition to this, upon a cold start (in Florida, by no means COLD!) and putting it into gear and pulling out of the garage 3-4 times I've noted what felt like the transmission slip then jolt/catch and then continue on as if nothing happened.

 

Not sure if either of those two things are associated with the problem or not - but thought I'd throw that out there.

 

FINGERS CROSSED

Very interesting. I had an opposite experience. Dealer did a routine wheel alignment and it seemed to reduce the buffeting drastically. So much for that meaning anything, if you had the opposite experience.

 

For sure my transmission shifts funny sometimes. Like it's slipping between gears momentarily. Another fricken' problem with these junkers.....

Posted

Monday came around and the dealer called me (meanwhile I'm "enjoying" the Chevy Trax I've got as a loaner, NOT). They feel that something is wrong with the transmission and are hoping that their planned fix takes care of the vibration... just my luck that it's just another non-related issue.

 

They're focusing on the torque converter - specifically the filter to the solenoid (or something along those lines). Part on order, then transmission flush/fill and 200 miles of break-in. I should have noted my fuel level when I dropped it off!

Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that began showing the vibration around the 11,000 mile mark.

 

I would describe this, as many others have, as an extreme vibration and buffeting that sounds like a window is down creating uneven cabin pressure--except the feeling and vibration is worse than that. It also sounds like you're running over very bad pavement. It shakes the whole vehicle in a bone jarring way and even makes people nauseous. I noticed it was more likely to happen when maintaining speed on an incline or level road but rarely downhill.

 

I took the vehicle into Sierra in Madison, TN. They appear to have fixed the the issue using Bulletin 16-NA-175, which calls this "Torque converter shudder".

Edited by MrBondTN
  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that began showing the vibration around the 11,000 mile mark.

 

I would describe this, as many others have, as an extreme vibration and buffeting that sounds like a window is down creating uneven cabin pressure--except the feeling and vibration is worse than that. It also sounds like you're running over very bad pavement. It shakes the whole vehicle in a bone jarring way and even makes people nauseous. I noticed it was more likely to happen when maintaining speed on an incline or level road but rarely downhill.

 

I took the vehicle into Sierra in Madison, TN. They appear to have fixed the the issue using Bulletin 16-NA-175, which calls this "Torque converter shudder".

 

Got mine back last Friday. They had to replace the filter TWICE, but it actually appears to have eliminated the vibration. I was quite skeptical that this would have caused the issue I was having, but I'm a believer (for now) !!

Posted (edited)

Got tired of reading all these entries. But you need help on diagnostics.

 

First load front and rear axles at all 4 points off the ground in a quite area of the garage. Make sure "ALL" 4 tires are off the ground by a few inches. Best object to use is 4 equal / level jack stands with multiple shop towels insulating the jack stand from the axles / control arms to isolate any potential noise transmission. Run the truck back up to the speed of issue of noise / buffeting. If the noise / buffeting is gone, it's a tire tread design / wind resistance issue.

 

I don't think the diagnostic techs have access to special made "test tires" with super smooth tread and super balance to eliminate tire issues. They "must" use a completely different tire / tread design as part of the diagnostic procedure or they are just screwing around. They must also change the tire pressure in 10 psi increments from 20 psi base to the maximum recommended pressure to see if the issue changes.

 

The other part is they have to use some duct tape and heavy cardboard to redirect areas of airflow that could cause body / chassis parts to vibrate. If the issue is present, the diagnostic service people will have to observe / feel / move vibration sensors around to locate the greatest frequency disturbance.

 

Does this problem change when you have 4 people in the cab???

 

I keep seeing driveshaft issues. The areas of diagnostics are, is any of the u-joints binding when the axle is loaded??? Is the pinon bearing preloaded correctly / or binding??? Is the driveshaft inclination near zero degrees??? Is there any bushings driveline mounts made out of urethane??? Is one of the brakes dragging??? What is the drive shaft lateral run out / balance at the speed of issue??? Are they using 2 or more large radiator hose clamps holding heavy washers to change the balance characteristic of the drive shaft???

 

There is a test I do with a small rubber mallet to see what might vibrate underneath the complete truck. Look for things that can catch airflow and vibrate. I've even beat the chit out of floor pans because the way they resonance vibrations and used sheet deadener.

 

More I read, there is a corrective fix, but could be labor intensive. In my time I used sheets of sound deadener wherever sound was emanating through the cab. This sound deadener looks "Freeze Guard" like they put on the lower 6 feet of a roofing job with paper on both sides.

 

Hand this entry over to the diagnostic boys. They will poo -poo my ideas, ...but I did driveability diagnostics for 36 years to their 2 or 3. If there's a problem, ...it can be fixed. Keep in touch on this.

Edited by Motor City Rick
Posted

 

Got mine back last Friday. They had to replace the filter TWICE, but it actually appears to have eliminated the vibration. I was quite skeptical that this would have caused the issue I was having, but I'm a believer (for now) !!

 

Which filter is this?

Posted

 

Which filter is this?

 

 

Monday came around and the dealer called me (meanwhile I'm "enjoying" the Chevy Trax I've got as a loaner, NOT). They feel that something is wrong with the transmission and are hoping that their planned fix takes care of the vibration... just my luck that it's just another non-related issue.

 

They're focusing on the torque converter - specifically the filter to the solenoid (or something along those lines). Part on order, then transmission flush/fill and 200 miles of break-in. I should have noted my fuel level when I dropped it off!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi All. Been a while since I checked in. Did anyone ever get any relief from the booming/pressure/buffeting by installing the Borla exhaust? Back in the day, probably 2 years ago now when this thread was on fire, adding/replacing exhaust was being experimented with before focusing on the tires. Just curious...

Edited by jasondenali15

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
    • I went to the county a few years back to dispute my property taxes. To do that I hired an appraiser and a lawyer. The County Assessor wished to argue that the homes in my neighborhood the appraiser used were all 'distressed properties" and not representative of the "Market Average".    My response was," Of the 50 homes in our subdivision 43 of them were "distressed properties" under bank foreclosure and as such "Distressed IS the market". Lawyer about choked on his coffee and handed the Assessor the 'receipts'.    I won that case on the evidence provided by the Lawyer and the Appraiser.    We have the same thing going on here. My statements were based on the GOVERNMENTS NATIONAL DATA and yours on local markets in areas of your interest. They are both correct....   Thing is, this divergence was based on NATIONAL and not on LOCAL. I think you even understand that. But like you said, we are both stubborn and hardheaded.    I do not see any advantage to disengagement.  But that said we can step back to compose ourselves. 
    • Trust me I appreciate the comments and concerns. It's what I was looking for to help me evaluate the situation and what I want to do. I have decided to move forward with the BORA hubcentric slip on 3/8" (.375") with the extended lugs nuts. Fedex says they should be here Monday :). Meanwhile, the dealer got the remote start and Patriot spray in bed liner done over the last couple of days. Also, I installed an inline stop/start eliminator today. Starts back up in what whatever mode you shut it off in, so you don't have to hit the button every time you fire up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...