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All synthetic oils are not equal, be careful

MikeInCtown

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SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

When I had my 98 I was brand loyal to Quaker State, but I remember times where I would get done driving and I would actually hear the oil dripping into the pan. I eventually switched to Mobil and used that until getting rid of it. Started with conventional and ended up using synthetic. I also used the Mobil 1 oil filter. By the way, in the 98 it said to use 5x-20, but said that 10w-30 was fine as long as it didn't get below 0°F. So I'm sure it was like that for the later Vortecs.

 

I haven't even had the 1st maintenance done to my new truck yet (but it's close). But, once the maintenance warranty is up I'm going to use Mobil. I'm not really wanting it to end only because the fact that the 5.3 holds 8.5 quarts and the 0w-20 DEX oil is $10 per quart. So that's right around $100 including the filter just to change the oil. But, I won't cheap out on this truck. Never cheaped out on any of my older trucks either, even if I was tight on money.

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48548 Enthusiast

48548

Posted
Posted

Hell you can get this or others weights for less than 28$ at Wal-Mart and until the end if the month with a 12$ rebate per bottle up to two bottles 24$ back rebate.

 

20141003_220752_zpsiimf1qjx.jpg

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Hell you can get this or others weights for less than 28$ at Wal-Mart and until the end if the month with a 12$ rebate per bottle up to two bottles 24$ back rebate.

 

20141003_220752_zpsiimf1qjx.jpg

 

I thought I looked in Walmart for Mobil dexos 0w-20 but maybe I missed it. I know I saw it in other weights though. Plus the Ecotec3 5.3 takes 0w-20 and that's nto as common as 5w so I'm hoping that doesn't help raise the price. It will be awhile before I'll have to do it myself so I'm not worried about it right now.

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

I sure hope you folks are at least changing the oil filter every 5000-7000 miles if you plan on going 15,000+ miles on an oil change.. even premium oil filters will crap up and go into bypass well before 15,000 miles.

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

Not all synthetics are created equal, and it may be that not all synthetics are actually synthetic at all. The cheap synthetics on the market may have very little Group lll base oil in them since there is no regulation or oversight from the API on what is in the bottle.

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

True, there is really no way for us out here in the cheap seats to actually know what is going into the bottle or jug. The key thing is to do one's research. There is tons of information on various oils available online, including independent analysis of various oils. There really is no need for anyone to guess at what might be good based on marketing.

 

One of the key areas to look at when judging an oil is the NOACK, or burn off rate. The lower the number the better. The dexos standard in a NOACK of under 11%. There are some oils that have incredibly low NOACK numbers. When you get into the single digit NOACK numbers, you can be pretty assured that you are looking at a full synthetic. Whether it is a full Group IV or Group III is really not that important. Matter of fact, many great oils have a blend of both Group IV and Group III synthetics. Each group brings something great to the party.

 

You get into NOACK numbers higher than the dexos standard of 11%, then things get murky at best. Is it a Group III? Is it primarily a Group II with a sprinkling of Group III throw in? Who knows. You can usually find NOACK numbers on producer's data sheets on their oils, or on the PQIA website from their testing.

 

Next up, the add pack. Boron is a great friction reducer in oils. Borac Acid (reflected as Boron in the add pack) is a inexpensive friction reducer than is a part of most oils nowadays and is slicker than teflon without the teflon problems. Molydenum is another great friction reducer, and has the added advantage of being a plate like substance that fills in imperfections in cylinder liners and cranks and cams, yet it is a softer metal that does not build up. As well as being a friction reducer, It helps the base oil do what it is supposed to do. It was initially developed for military use and made its way into the retail sector. Zinc is an old standby, but is eclipsed but the previous two in ability to reduce friction. Higher numbers of these elements in motor oil shows a very good add pack. The TBN (Total Base Number) of the add pack is something to look at, as it deals with handling various acids that can build up inside the engine, but a higher number doesn't always equate to a better product.

 

The PQIA and other sites like the Bob Is The Oil Guy site are a wealth of good information on various oils. The BITOG site has used oil sample results submitted by users to see how oils hold up out here in the real world and not just in the lab.

 

While the base oil is important, the add pack is what really makes or breaks how well an oil does. It is a complete package.

  • 6 months later...
SierraJoe1110 Enthusiast

SierraJoe1110

Posted
Posted

I have absolutely noticed this. What ever the dealer put in it when i bought it (GM Certified, with only 43,000 miles) the low oil light came on after like 3500 miles. Needless to say I FREAKED out my new truck was using so much oil, especially after some of the horror stories I had read with these trucks using oil. Rather than fly off the handle at the dealer, I took it straight to my mechanic and had him change the oil with 5w30 AMSOIL. It has gotten that every 5000 miles, and in 60,000 since it has not burned a drop

MikeInCtown Enthusiast

MikeInCtown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just wanted to provide a little update.

 

At the advice of a nuclear scientist I tried 0w-30 in my truck in December. I bought the synthetic Mobil 1. I noticed that the oil pressure is as good, if not better than the QS 5w-30 that I was using previous. I also noticed that I heard zero ticking on a cold start up as I heard when using other oils. This included QS, Pennzoil, and Supertech synthetic oils. Also, I have used 60% of my oil life and the level on the dipstick is above the halfway mark still. This is as good if not better than the other oils I have used.

 

Now looking to see if I should continue with the 0w-30 for the summer, or go with their 0w-40 oil (branded as oil for European luxury cars) for the summer.

Coppertone Enthusiast

Coppertone

Posted
Posted

I sure hope you folks are at least changing the oil filter every 5000-7000 miles if you plan on going 15,000+ miles on an oil change.. even premium oil filters will crap up and go into bypass well before 15,000 miles.

 

Source?

BIG THUNDER II Enthusiast

BIG THUNDER II

Posted
Posted

Why are you some of you using 5w-30, when the manual of 2014+ engines call for 5w-20?

Actually, SAE 0W-20 is the best viscosity grade for the 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engines (Owner Manual, 10-12).

Coppertone Enthusiast

Coppertone

Posted
Posted

Actually, SAE 0W-20 is the best viscosity grade for the 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engines (Owner Manual, 10-12).

 

I was trying to emphasize the 20 vs 30, which matters most at operating temp.

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

That is right. it doesn't matter if it is a 0w20 or a 5w20, they are both 20w oils. Or a 0w30,5w30, or 10w30, some thing, they are all 30w oils. The number in front is only the cold winter flow rating. The actual viscosity is the same. Viscosity of all 20w oils is roughly 8-9 cSt at 100c and all 30w oils are around 10-11 cSt at 100c. The winter flow rating, the number before the "w" has no bearing on the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature. Just the cold temperature characteristics at startup. I wouldn't want to use a 10w30 in Fairbanks, AK in the dead of winter. I would rather use a 0w30. For someone in south Florida, it really doesn't matter.

 

Now, the 20w oils are just fine as the OEM recommends. A 30w could be used if one couldn't get a 20w oil. I would NEVER throw in a 40w oil except in an emergency. Hydrodynamic lubrication can be greatly affected at that point. One might get by with a 40w, while another could really mess things up. That is a crap shoot. A 40w oil has a kinematic viscosity that is double of a 20w. And with the clearance tolerances in these newer motors, one could end up with spots on cam and rod bearings that don't get proper lubrication. Even the newest heavy commercial diesels in semi trucks are being factory filled with a 10w30, for much the same reasoning. No heavy diesel OEM is factory filling with a 40w oil anymore.

 

Most people just overthink the issue. get a good XXw20 at a good value, based on the temps you will be running in. Same for the motors using XXw30. Dexos spec'd if you want to worry about anything. All the major brands are good. Just get the best value you can. But brand loyalty amongst buyers is no more evident than when it comes to motor oils. Like a religion almost.

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