Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
30 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

The part number(s) that you are looking for are listed in one of these, think it was in the LONG one, "LED Under Rail Bed Lighting." 

Thank you very much. I thought I had looked though all of those but I guess I missed it. Just ordered the harness off of eBay. Should be here Monday, then I can install my back rack led lights and someday a real set off bed lights. Thanks again Ravenkeeper!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, E-rich1210 said:

Thank you very much. I thought I had looked though all of those but I guess I missed it. Just ordered the harness off of eBay. Should be here Monday, then I can install my back rack led lights and someday a real set off bed lights. Thanks again Ravenkeeper!

You're welcome.  I am still looking at doing mine, but with LEDs.  Bunch of the guys said they were tired of trying to find a way to splice them into the cargo lights, so it was suggested to connect at the j-box under the bed, then someone found/made a connector for the j-box.  I know that I have a lot of reading ahead of me, when I finally go for this project.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

You're welcome.  I am still looking at doing mine, but with LEDs.  Bunch of the guys said they were tired of trying to find a way to splice them into the cargo lights, so it was suggested to connect at the j-box under the bed, then someone found/made a connector for the j-box.  I know that I have a lot of reading ahead of me, when I finally go for this project.

That's my plan, splice off one side of the harness for the back rack led lights and the add two or three led strip lights under my tonneau cover. I'll probably do the reverse light diode trick so that they come on with the cargo lights as well as two led reverse lights I'll have installed. Once it's all done I'll post some pics.

Posted
17 minutes ago, E-rich1210 said:

That's my plan, splice off one side of the harness for the back rack led lights and the add two or three led strip lights under my tonneau cover. I'll probably do the reverse light diode trick so that they come on with the cargo lights as well as two led reverse lights I'll have installed. Once it's all done I'll post some pics.

Cargo on with reverse lights, or reverse lights on with cargo?  If you stumble across my diode photo, mine is set cargo on with reverse.  For reverse on with cargo, turn the diode around.

Posted

Thanks, I'll probably do the reverse on with cargo. Since i'll have two led lights that come on with reverse I shouldn't need the cargo light. and when I turn on the cargo light, the whole back of the truck will turn on :) Thanks again for all your help. This forum is great and full of knowledgeable people.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/17/2018 at 7:22 PM, nmyron said:

I just have to say thanks to the OP and the rest. Just did this on my 2017. Used a piece of single-strand 24ga hookup I had laying around. 

 

I got a nice set of LED backup and cargo replacement bulbs from eBay (link will be below), right after I picked the truck up because (esp in the rain) at night my backup camera was useless. They helped, some. I hit the seller up (had one of the plate lights go out) and asked about some brighter reverse lamps, and for an extra cost he shipped me a pair to try. Much better, and then when combined with the cargo lamp hack found here, it's almost as bright behind the truck in reverse as in front!

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182525013600

 

This link is for the original reverse lamps and cargo bulbs. I am asking the seller for an updated listing for the new reverse lamps and cargo bulbs. Will update when/if provided.

 

large.20180117_191539.jpg.083306e2ba1808a964f6d5fb9d9a0745.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the original upgrade reverse lamps to compare.

large.20170629_220050_20180117202622794.jpg.90c9c9a788771b70beddd2e86878ac2a.jpg

 

 

Did you, by chance, ever get specs on those updated lamps ?

I am looking to upgrade mine, as i agree... backup cam is useless in the rain.

 

THANKS!!

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Make sure the wires are pushed in to make the connection. Mine wasnt and took a little to figure it out.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted



So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Posted





Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk




I ended up getting mine working, just had to really jam that diode in there.

Check out this video, it’ll show you where the dome light wire is. You should be able to run your diode between it and the cargo light connection.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

So I found the correct pins, but dang if couldn't find a diode anywhere within a 30 miles of my place, so I'll have to order some. I did try it out with a jumper wire and the theory works, just need a diode so I can get it to work how I want.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/4/2018 at 2:37 PM, noJeepshere said:


 

 


Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
 

 

Jumper going from GRY-1 to PNK-26.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 526 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Even tougher is the 5.0 / 302. That's what this one has.    https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   https://postimg.cc/4n3F3yzY   Just realized I had the airbox removed in the engine pic, lol.
    • Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...