Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't know if I've official posted a pic on this thread, so here it is.

 

0c716319eeb449f54b98c5135c9ec9f4.jpg

 

0f667266498395f65b541c2265660531.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 5
Posted

5ba470391f0500b4b224b3f6a9c92a8e.jpg

 

0bbeb9dfd511cd5f27e1d737524fc29f.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted

Ok I'll just get it out of the way what setup you got?

Thanks!

 

I'm running the 6" BDS lift with 35" Toyo RTs. Added the AMP steps, 500 watt RF sub and the fold-a-cover. Next I'd like to upgrade the lights to something brighter and throw a 30" or 20" Rigid Industries Midnight Edition E series light bar behind the grill. The factor LED lights aren't very bright in the 2014s.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Here's my 2016 Silverado Z71 LT. So far, I've added 5" iBoard Running boards, Type S Smart Off-Road Lights, Blacked out front & rear Bow-Ties..along with the stearing column & the Bow-Tie on the wheels, I've also added rear lights under the tailgate. My next projects will be adding DL3 mirrors (or tow), adding a 2" leveling kit from Tuff Country, and (I know my wife hopes) lastly putting 22" CK162s on.

thez71a

thez71c

thez71

 

post-172547-0-52002800-1494216706_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-22898800-1494216722_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-45171600-1494216736_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-52002800-1494216706_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-22898800-1494216722_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-45171600-1494216736_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-52002800-1494216706_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-22898800-1494216722_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-45171600-1494216736_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-52002800-1494216706_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-22898800-1494216722_thumb.jpeg

post-172547-0-45171600-1494216736_thumb.jpeg

Posted

I don't know if I've official posted a pic on this thread, so here it is. 0c716319eeb449f54b98c5135c9ec9f4.jpg0f667266498395f65b541c2265660531.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are those factory assist steps?
  • Like 1
Posted

Are those factory assist steps?

Yes they are.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Thanks!

 

I'm running the 6" BDS lift with 35" Toyo RTs. Added the AMP steps, 500 watt RF sub and the fold-a-cover. Next I'd like to upgrade the lights to something brighter and throw a 30" or 20" Rigid Industries Midnight Edition E series light bar behind the grill. The factor LED lights aren't very bright in the 2014s.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you like the RT's? That's what I'm planning on getting when these tires are done. The 2014's don't have LED's except for the dlr's. I recommend the Morimoto HID and kit from TRS. Works great in the stock projectors and super bright. Also the Morimoto xb led fogs. You'll never complain about lighting again.

Edited by novembervictor
Posted

The RT's are great I have about 14k miles on them now and they're holding up well. I've ripped them in sand, snow, mud, dirt, rock, etc. and they still have lots of tread. I rotate them every 5k miles.

 

Thanks for the recommendation on the lights. I'll check them out. I thought it was LED projector based on my sticker. What does this mean then?

 

aa477d1a3f4221fa54d9ddb9b3aa39a0.png

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Will have to take this offline as it's a different thread. Must be referring to the LED strips that go around the projector.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Will have to take this offline as it's a different thread. Must be referring to the LED strips that go around the projector.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the LED is just the strips. 2014 and 15 only came with halogens and they are god awful. How's the noise on the highway from the RT's? I really don't feel like listening to tire drone if I can avoid it. Edited by novembervictor
Posted

Yes the LED is just the strips. 2014 and 15 only came with halogens and they are god awful. How's the noise on the highway from the RT's? I really don't feel like listening to tire drone if I can avoid it.

It's noticeable compared to the stock tires but nothing like running MTs. It's hardly noticeable and any radio volume drowns the right out. If you're going 80+ with no radio, then you'll hear them. I don't mind it at all and had the same concern. That's why I went with these. More rugged than an AT but not as bad on sound and wear & tear as an MT.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

New lift wheels and tires last week...

 

what lift , tires size please - looks good

Posted

 

what lift , tires size please - looks good

 

Thanks! I'm running a Fabtech Gen II 6" w/ the stealth shocks, Toyo Open County MT 35x12.5x20 on 20x9 Fuel Wildcats

I had previously trimmed some of the lining in the wheel wells to fit 33x12.5's on a level w/ stock wheels, so no more was needed to accommodate the new set up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...