Morimoto HID - Any Issues for you?

EPIC CAJUN · January 12, 2015

35w kit, but have yet to resolve issues with HD radio when the lights are on.

I noticed this today after 3 days of driving around trying to figure why most of my local stations, some hd and some not, stopped working properly. My hd stations will come in if I turn the lights off. When I turn them back on, the signal clarity slowly fades till all you hear is static. Same with some regular radio stations.

What the hell is causing this? This may be a deal breaker if I can't use the radio.

POS VETT · January 13, 2015

Shine a flashlight onto the solar load sensor.

nuclearxp · January 13, 2015

Epic,

Where exactly are your three grounds, and how did you prep them? Take pictures if you can, my first thought is you have one or more not making good contact or in a bad spot so it's feeding back noise into the vehicle.

Second option would be to make sure your capacitor is hooked up correctly.

EPIC CAJUN · January 13, 2015

Oh damn what you mean by prep? I can see it now, I'm gonna burn this truck to the ground. Lol

One is on the drivers side battery tray bracket piece.

The capacitor is bolted to the tray under the air box.

The third is on a bolt I made to the body panel behind the air box.

I'll have to get pics tomorrow if you need.

Where did you place yours?

Payton34 · January 13, 2015

Mine was perfect for 6 months but now since late Nove have had one headlight staying on after truck is shut off. no parking light etc are on just one head light. TRS sent me a new cube relay for the harness and I just replaced it for the 3rd time. 2 days later the headlight stayed on. Then the riverside headlight just started having intermittent firing issues. I am very close to going back to stock bulbs I am so irritated with the issues.

EPIC CAJUN · January 13, 2015

Epic,

Mine has gone away now. I cleaned up the grounds, but think what solved the problem was switching the OEM input to the capacitor around. I think my mis-interpretation of the directions was that "harnesses with one OEM input should have red:red and black:black connections to the capacitor harness". I swear I read and implemented that correctly but I left the lights on and switched the polarity around and all buzzing stopped immediately.

I switched the OEM input around and so far no buzzing noise.

Thanks for the tip

nuclearxp · January 14, 2015

Sorry about the triple post above.

I used the bolt going through the body to the body cross-brace member above the air box.

As for prepping - I mentioned that because the bolt (seemed) anodized and the body spot where I attached the ground cables had paint on it. Without a pure ground-to-unpainted-body connection you won't get a good electrical transfer.

I just ask in the event the ground locations you choose doesn't have a good metal to metal contact it may give you issues.

GMC-AT · January 14, 2015

I grounded to that same cross brace area.

Spurshot · January 14, 2015

The classic ground method is to put a star washer under the fastener.

EPIC CAJUN · January 14, 2015

The classic ground method is to put a star washer under the fastener.

Will try this today. I did clean the paint around the grounds last night and the reception on my radio was much better. Still a couple stations coming in static.

Crf450r420 · January 14, 2015

I believe that GM update the radio hardware at some point and the software after that so many need one or both, but if it was better before the lights then keep going.