AUX switch install

smcgillis10 · September 7, 2016

As far as I am aware there is only one "upfitter switch" which has 4AUX toggles. Those other part numbers just cover all the other variations of switch banks that control OEM truck options.

Below is a picture of what it looks like once you combine part #23145202 with #23145158 (upfitter).

I've been working on this for a long time and it's very difficult. Each switch does not have its own wires, rather they push buttons that are mounted on a circuit board inside the thing. If you look through my other thread it explains what I'm trying to do, I just haven't finished the project yet because it's so annoying.

AUX1 used to be "Lane departure warning"

AUX2 used to be "Exhaust brake"

I'm going to try using the signal from those two systems to trigger relays for the lights.

Here's where I'm at so far - two switch sets mixed together:

Im still on the fence about this. I would love to do it, but I want to be exactly sure of what I am doing before i break into the dash of my brand new truck.

So after reading this like million times...I think I am closer to understanding what was done here, lol

I have pedals, TC, and cargo lights/bedlights. (3 switches, it is an SLT). It would be perfectly convenient if I could just buy the first upfitter switch bank with that blank one in the third spot and the 4 AUX switches. But can I use the blank spot for a switch (my 3rd position is cargo lights), or is it just a blank? Otherwise I would have to buy the other one and do what you did here.

And on another note, why did you bother soldering anything to the board and bothering with those special terminals and using the OEM plug? I dont understand where you are going to plug in those small plugs with red/bk wires going towards switches?

Read that post. Do why he did. You need to find the switch bank with most of the type of switches that you need.

The adjustable pedal switch has contacts on top and bottom since the switch goes both ways. The best way to Get the results that you want is find a switch bank like the one from a fully loaded diesel.

That switch bank will most likely have:

Adjustable pedals (momentary up/down)

Traction Control

Cargo lights

Parking Assist

Hill Decent control

Exhaust brake

Then after that you would need to find out what type of contact is behind the last 4 switches (parking assist/hill decent/exhaust brake)

They will either be latched or momentary.

And both will work.

Latched switches are easier

Momentary needs a little more behind it.

These are the two different switch types

Latched

Momentary

To use the latched switched. You use them in line with a relay. Look up how a relay works and you'll understand. And ground side switch.

The flow of power will be

Battery-coil on relay - then to the switch. The latched switches ONLY control a negative signal. As in power flows through the relay coil then the switch. The switch DOES NOT SUPPLY POWER. Only supply's a ground.

If you try to "not use a relay" you will burn up this switch board. Only a relay should be used to supply power to a light or whatever you plan to power.

With the momentary switches you can use one of these. Didn't look long enough to find one in the us.

http://www.abeltronics.co.uk/products/momentary-switch-to-latching-switch-converter-toggle-action-non-potted/fog-901np

Or look up how to latch a relay with a momentary switch and have fun.

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smcgillis10 · September 7, 2016

That was someone else. I think he used the aux panel. But I didn't really understand that either. He was one of the many guinea pigs that got us to point we are now.

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I was the one who soldered to the wire connections on the inside of the board. Was faster then finding the pins to install into the connector for the upfitter switch. They weren't readily available like they are now. Lol

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Grumpy Tooch · September 7, 2016

Read that post. Do why he did. You need to find the switch bank with most of the type of switches that you need.

The adjustable pedal switch has contacts on top and bottom since the switch goes both ways. The best way to Get the results that you want is find a switch bank like the one from a fully loaded diesel.

That switch bank will most likely have:

Adjustable pedals (momentary up/down)

Traction Control

Cargo lights

Parking Assist

Hill Decent control

Exhaust brake

Then after that you would need to find out what type of contact is behind the last 4 switches (parking assist/hill decent/exhaust brake)

They will either be latched or momentary.

And both will work.

Latched switches are easier

Momentary needs a little more behind it.

These are the two different switch types

Latched

Momentary

To use the latched switched. You use them in line with a relay. Look up how a relay works and you'll understand. And ground side switch.

The flow of power will be

Battery-coil on relay - then to the switch. The latched switches ONLY control a negative signal. As in power flows through the relay coil then the switch. The switch DOES NOT SUPPLY POWER. Only supply's a ground.

If you try to "not use a relay" you will burn up this switch board. Only a relay should be used to supply power to a light or whatever you plan to power.

With the momentary switches you can use one of these. Didn't look long enough to find one in the us.

http://www.abeltronics.co.uk/products/momentary-switch-to-latching-switch-converter-toggle-action-non-potted/fog-901np

Or look up how to latch a relay with a momentary switch and have fun.

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Thank you for all that prudent info but actually I knew all that. I wanted to know this: I was planning on getting the switch bank with all 7 options AND the switch bank with 2 options and (4) AUX. Then replace the last (4) options on the bank I plan on using with the (4) AUX switches. I guess I needed to know if after I do this will those last (4) switches (now showing AUX) operate and the indicator lights work as well.l I know they will momentary so I will still need the latching relays.

This is so it all looks factory and I do not have to worry about switches saying options i dont have.

Edited September 7, 2016 by tooch420

Grumpy Tooch · September 7, 2016

I was the one who soldered to the wire connections on the inside of the board. Was faster then finding the pins to install into the connector for the upfitter switch. They weren't readily available like they are now. Lol

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OH OK, lol Thanks for clearing that up!

smcgillis10 · September 7, 2016

If any of those last 4 positions are momentary switches I doubt the indicator will light up. But I know how to get them to light up if they work in the way I think they do.

I think the indicator light circuit for the monetary switch is like this

Witch would mean the connection pin for the switch has - or + going through it at different times.

The way I think it works is like this.

When you hit the switch it gives the BCM a Negative signal to turn whatever on. Then once the BCM turns on what it powers, the BCM sends a low voltage POSITIVE signal to the switch board using the same pin and then that turns on the indicator light.

To find out for sure I would need to pull out my switch board and test it.

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Thank you for all that prudent info but actually I knew all that. I wanted to know this: I was planning on getting the switch bank with all 7 options AND the switch bank with 2 options and (4) AUX. Then replace the last (4) options on the bank I plan on using with the (4) AUX switches. I guess I needed to know if after I do this will those last (4) switches (now showing AUX) operate and the indicator lights work as well.l I know they will momentary so I will still need the latching relays.

This is so it all looks factory and I do not have to worry about switches saying options i dont have.

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Edited September 7, 2016 by smcgillis10

Grumpy Tooch · September 8, 2016

If any of those last 4 positions are momentary switches I doubt the indicator will light up. But I know how to get them to light up if they work in the way I think they do.

I think the indicator light circuit for the monetary switch is like this

Witch would mean the connection pin for the switch has - or + going through it at different times.

The way I think it works is like this.

When you hit the switch it gives the BCM a Negative signal to turn whatever on. Then once the BCM turns on what it powers, the BCM sends a low voltage POSITIVE signal to the switch board using the same pin and then that turns on the indicator light.

To find out for sure I would need to pull out my switch board and test it.

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Yeah I never thought of that. If what you say IS in fact true, then whatever switch i replace (either lighted or not) will work being it is using the same power path. If the power is being rerouted back to the panel, the lighted switch is not utilizing that....hope that makes sense

Do you know if the last 4 options have indicator lights like the AUX switches?

Edited September 8, 2016 by tooch420

Grumpy Tooch · September 8, 2016

Ok finally got it opened up. I removed one of the wires to look at them side by side.

They look the exact same. Only a slight variation on the clip but they should fit just fine.

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Look at what i found on amazon.com, I think it looks just like those and comes with plugs to make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-2-54mm-Headers-Connector-Housing/dp/B014YTPFT8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7Q20BZHTKWYF4JGAWFHH

arkiehou02 · September 8, 2016

Yeah I never thought of that. If what you say IS in fact true, then whatever switch i replace (either lighted or not) will work being it is using the same power path. If the power is being rerouted back to the panel, the lighted switch is not utilizing that....hope that makes sense

Do you know if the last 4 options have indicator lights like the AUX switches?

The downhill assist does not. The ones with the lights have a separate pin connection. You just need to run a wire from the relay back to this correct pin and it will turn the light on.

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arkiehou02 · September 8, 2016

Look at what i found on amazon.com, I think it looks just like those and comes with plugs to make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-2-54mm-Headers-Connector-Housing/dp/B014YTPFT8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7Q20BZHTKWYF4JGAWFHH

It's hard to tell from their pictures if it will fit. I guess that's the good thing about Amazon is that you can return it if it's not the right part. You will have to let us know is they work.

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Grumpy Tooch · September 10, 2016

The downhill assist does not. The ones with the lights have a separate pin connection. You just need to run a wire from the relay back to this correct pin and it will turn the light on.

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If i do that, being I am swapping buttons will there even be a contact on the board for the light?

arkiehou02 · September 10, 2016

If i do that, being I am swapping buttons will there even be a contact on the board for the light?

I'm not sure about that one. I've honestly not seen any of these trucks that don't have this option though. I also wonder about the button contact shape (how it pushes the internal button). I think I've seen others that have done this so it must work.

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Grumpy Tooch · September 11, 2016

I'm not sure about that one. I've honestly not seen any of these trucks that don't have this option though. I also wonder about the button contact shape (how it pushes the internal button). I think I've seen others that have done this so it must work.

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Well i hope so..lol. I havent ordered my switch banks yet. I have everything else, my light bars just came today, wire/relay/cnnectors/ect i have. I cannot believe how tiny the latching relays are from amazon, I was so surprised when they came!

I have a small battery box with cover coming to put all relays and a dist block for power and fuses and put it in the spare battery spot under hood.

Grumpy Tooch · September 27, 2016

ok i got both switch banks but cant figure out how to remove the switches to swap them...

Grumpy Tooch · October 1, 2016

Ok time for a little update. I know I am incredibly slow and apologize for that.

So I ordered this relay from eBay for around $4 thinking it would be the same. Not so much! It turns out this was not a latching relay.

So then I went back to the drawing board. I just knew I could find a 4 channel latching relay and I finally came across one from Amazon, and it was even on prime.

I got everything hooked up and each of the first 3 relays trigger with the pedal button, park assist button, and lane departure button. For the Pedal button I ended up putting the pedal up and pedal down wires into the trigger hookup. I don't have a picture but I got everything in a small plastic case and added my ground wires to the output so the indicator lights work as well.

Up next is getting my relay box wired and mounted under the hood. I bought this box from Amazon. I plan on using the 2 additional relays to turn the headlights off and just have some rgb halos as daytime running lights.

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Hey there. I got everything and just about to break open the dash. Can you explain here what wires go where on the relay board from amazon (have same one)

You have the 4 diff colored wires on one side going to CH1~4, do these go to the other standard relays, if so which pin? and i assume DC+,DC- to ign power as you said. But what of the terminals on the actual relays there, NO, COM, NC?

Edited October 1, 2016 by tooch420

grnmtnboy · December 7, 2016

Looking for some help.

According to this thread, if I have the WT package and the aux wires in the plug the truck should be set up for the switches?

This is what I have.

Truck his the wiring.

Replaced the original 4 switch panel with a 7.

I have installed the relay's and fuses in the underhood fuse block but I'm still unable to get power to the IECM (X61A). What am I missing, do those wires go to another panel (that needs relay's or something) before going to the underhood fuse block?