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AUX switch install

smcgillis10

By smcgillis10
in Modifications & Accessories

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TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted

Yes, that switch would work but the Exhaust Brake uses the other connector on the back. You likely have some wires plugged into a “blank” on the back of your switch now. The exhaust brake has 6 pins at that plug, two of which are used for our purposes. The exhaust brake plug and the main plug use different terminals. You could easily cut and splice but this switch might be better suited as you can just relocate The HDC terminal to the cavity on the main switch plug that corresponds with the CNG pinout. Unfortunately I don’t have a diagram for that but it’s easy to find which one that is using a multimeter. (Assuming it doesn’t use the same plug as the exhaust brake). I have only seen this switch on eBay but it’s around $30 US.

 

 

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Sffsks11
Sffsks11

So if everybody is wondering on how to install these auxiliary switches (GM Oem P# 23145158) without the GM upfitter diagram. I purchased the Bussmann 15303 - 5 it is a weather tight fused and relay b

tha_lildude
tha_lildude

I have just successfully fully integrated my AUX switches OEM style. My fuse block did not come with the relays or fuses, nor did it have connectors for them. I had to purchase a few new things.

AZelkhunter
AZelkhunter

Here are some pictures of the modified buttons. I had to remove all the black and white, then respray the white because you couldn't see the icon in the daylight. I am pretty happy with the way they

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TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted

Obviously you wouldn’t have the right size HDC button cap for that switch. I’m waiting on my BCM to come back from White Auto & Media so I’m going to say hold off on the X50A until I can test the one that I just got in my “15 6.0 just to be sure it’s compatible. I do have a couple extra HDC button caps and I’ll gladly mail one to you so you can use the CNG one for your slip tank in place of say AUX 4. I’ll get part numbers for terminals together soon to save money over buying terminated leads through GM.

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

Stoked to see the video of this.

 

Will be doing this mod next month.

 

Do you happen to have the info on how much we can plug into these new relays - max amps I mean.

 

Will be using mine for light bars and air compressor.

JohnnyTooTall New Member

JohnnyTooTall

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

Obviously you wouldn’t have the right size HDC button cap for that switch. I’m waiting on my BCM to come back from White Auto & Media so I’m going to say hold off on the X50A until I can test the one that I just got in my “15 6.0 just to be sure it’s compatible. I do have a couple extra HDC button caps and I’ll gladly mail one to you so you can use the CNG one for your slip tank in place of say AUX 4. I’ll get part numbers for terminals together soon to save money over buying terminated leads through GM.

I'd really appreciate that, TF. That switch bank looks like it would work perfectly. Do they typically have a master harness feeding into the back? Or does each switch have its own plug?

Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted

Has this gotten a successful review? I’ve been pondering the idea. So these switches are switched negatively so if I run my own relays and switch with negative instead of a 12v these should work?


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TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted
On 4/23/2018 at 10:40 AM, JohnnyTooTall said:

I'd really appreciate that, TF. That switch bank looks like it would work perfectly. Do they typically have a master harness feeding into the back? Or does each switch have its own plug?

Each switch has its own pin-out in the main plug that plugs into the switch bank. The exhaust brake uses a separate plug that is a blank on a truck with a gas motor. If you have a truck with T/C, Cargo Light, and HDC and you plug in a switch with those options plus a few more, your options will still work and all switches will be illuminated with the dimmer but the extra switches will be sending a signal to an open cavity in the main plug. (No wire will be present in the plug) I haven’t had the opportunity to test a panel with CNG but I assume it sends the signal through one of the pins in the main plug. You would locate that pin on the switch and move the wire in your plug corresponding with HDC over to the cavity corresponding with the signal from CNG. On switches that have an indicator light there will be a second wire coming back to that switch as well. Upfitter switches don’t need a second wire for an indicator light as the switch will stay closed (like a clicker pen) until pressed again. Since HDC has no indicator light and CNG does you would not utilize the indicator light and have to slightly modify the inside of the toggle cap (the part that disperses the light) as it will slightly contact the indicator LED. It’s just a little trim job on thin plastic.

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Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted

Did I see someone make a plug already pinned out ? I currently only have 3 stock buttons. I got a aux gm one with the cng button. Does someone make the plugs needed to switch my own relays using grounds like I read?


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TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/24/2018 at 12:07 PM, TinkeringFox said:

Each switch has its own pin-out in the main plug that plugs into the switch bank. The exhaust brake uses a separate plug that is a blank on a truck with a gas motor. If you have a truck with T/C, Cargo Light, and HDC and you plug in a switch with those options plus a few more, your options will still work and all switches will be illuminated with the dimmer but the extra switches will be sending a signal to an open cavity in the main plug. (No wire will be present in the plug) I haven’t had the opportunity to test a panel with CNG but I assume it sends the signal through one of the pins in the main plug. You would locate that pin on the switch and move the wire in your plug corresponding with HDC over to the cavity corresponding with the signal from CNG. On switches that have an indicator light there will be a second wire coming back to that switch as well. Upfitter switches don’t need a second wire for an indicator light as the switch will stay closed (like a clicker pen) until pressed again. Since HDC has no indicator light and CNG does you would not utilize the indicator light and have to slightly modify the inside of the toggle cap (the part that disperses the light) as it will slightly contact the indicator LED. It’s just a little trim job on thin plastic.

 

78B711CC-8E65-4223-B0C7-7F08E8DB29C2.jpeg

I just tested an Upfitter switch with a CNG button (23146445) and it seems to be identical to the one with TC,Cargo,Exhaust Brake (23145163?). The output and indicator input use the Exhaust Brake plug (X2). If you were to use this CNG switch, or the Exhaust Brake switch inyour application you would need to remove terminal/wire 4 from the X1 connector (main plug) and swap into pin 4 on the X2 connector (exhaust brake plug). The terminals are a different size so a cut and splice would be necessary or just replacing the terminal. This would allow the use or triggering of HDC through the Output pin from CNG or Exhaust Brake. You would just pop on an HDC cap in place of CNG, then move the CNG cap to say Aux 4 to use as your slip tank Trigger.

 

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Edited by TinkeringFox
Upside down pics
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TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted
On 4/22/2018 at 11:10 PM, WesternMike said:

Stoked to see the video of this.

 

Will be doing this mod next month.

 

Do you happen to have the info on how much we can plug into these new relays - max amps I mean.

 

Will be using mine for light bars and air compressor.

I believe the relays in the new X50A are fused at 30A. You could also just add your own relays without the new Underhood fuse box (X50A) and just use something a little beefier like 70A Hella relays.

Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

I believe the relays in the new X50A are fused at 30A. You could also just add your own relays without the new Underhood fuse box (X50A) and just use something a little beefier like 70A Hella relays.

 

I posted this earlier in the thread but will bump it again.

 

Switch Fuses 5Amp (only 2 of the 4 spots should end up being populated depending if you want them to work with the truck off.)

-22 Aux Switch1+2 battery power

-26 Aux Switch1+2 switched power

 

-27 Aux Switch 3+4 battery power

-31 Aux switch 3+4 switched power

 

Power Fuses 30A

-23 relay for sw2

-30 relay for sw3

-32 relay for sw4

-37 relay for sw1

 

Relays

-60,61,62,65

 

I found it much easier(and cheaper) just to use the upfitter switch and run my own relays.  I'm running a 50A main wired with 8ga  to 4x 30A relays fused at 20A with 12ga wire to the loads.  Got a 6 pack of the relays off amazon for 27$

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Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted

Did I miss how to get a plug for this switch set. My truck has stock 3 switches. I bought these switches but need some sort of harness to be able to use these. Can someone point me in a way to get the plugs for the back?


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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, Csjumper2003 said:

Did I miss how to get a plug for this switch set. My truck has stock 3 switches. I bought these switches but need some sort of harness to be able to use these. Can someone point me in a way to get the plugs for the back?


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I didn't need a extra harness for mine, I just put the 4 new pins in the existing harness but I believe Tinkerfox above posted the documentation for the extra plug needed for the CNG/Exhaust break upfitter switch.

 

In my case(only TC and bed lights) I removed the 4 factory wires (the y,r,gry,blu striped wires on the right) and repinned them with the ground side of the relays coil.

OL1r8gw.jpg

 

9 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

I just tested an Upfitter switch with a CNG button (23146445) and it seems to be identical to the one with TC,Cargo,Exhaust Brake (23145163?). The output and indicator input use the Exhaust Brake plug (X2). If you were to use this CNG switch, or the Exhaust Brake switch inyour application you would need to remove terminal/wire 4 from the X1 connector (main plug) and swap into pin 4 on the X2 connector (exhaust brake plug). The terminals are a different size so a cut and splice would be necessary or just replacing the terminal.

OEM connector 15488869

Edited by Crazyjoker77
TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted
On 4/24/2018 at 9:30 PM, Csjumper2003 said:

Did I see someone make a plug already pinned out ? I currently only have 3 stock buttons. I got a aux gm one with the cng button. Does someone make the plugs needed to switch my own relays using grounds like I read?


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Which three buttons did your truck originally come with? I’m assuming TC, Cargo, and ?

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