Intake clean. WOW!

Spurshot · April 13, 2015

That's why I'm working building a meth/alky kit in the next few months. I figure it and the catch can will be great with a future tune.

For a temporary setup run the hose from your winshield washer to the place you're going to inject it. I'd just put a washer nozzle in the plastic duct in front of the throttle body. Solder or squash the orifice down to about .060 and be done. You can control it with the washer switch. Pull the wiper fuse. Heck, you can shoot the blue juice in there and get good results. It's mostly water and alcohol.

Edited April 13, 2015 by spurshot

14'SilveradoLT · April 13, 2015

For a temporary setup run the hose from your winshield washer to the place you're going to inject it. I'd just put a washer nozzle in the plastic duct in front of the throttle body. Solder or squash the orifice down to about .060 and be done. You can control it with the washer switch. Pull the wiper fuse. Heck, you can shoot the blue juice in there and get good results. It's mostly water and alcohol.

That's definitely simplistic...

The good thing is that with the AFE Stage II, is that I will not feel bad about tapping the elbow. I'm guessing that the spare battery tray was put there just for a meth/alky tank. Been looking into Devil's Own kits.

Silverado-Hareek · April 13, 2015

I just did the BG treatment at 16,500 miles. I can honestly say the truck runs smoother, has more power, and the mpgs seem to be up a lil. I'm ordering my catch can next week, and will probably do the BG treatment every 10,000 to 12,000 miles for as long as I own the truck

Scheduled a service appointment with my mechanic for tomorrow to do the BG treatment. I'm hoping to get some before and after pictures from his borescope. I will report the findings here if I do. When you did your BG service, did they change your oil afterwards?

BBRU · April 13, 2015

Scheduled a service appointment with my mechanic for tomorrow to do the BG treatment. I'm hoping to get some before and after pictures from his borescope. I will report the findings here if I do. When you did your BG service, did they change your oil afterwards?

Nope, dealer is changing the oil tomorrow though

Silverado-Hareek · April 13, 2015

Nope, dealer is changing the oil tomorrow though

Ok yeah I didn't plan well for this. I did the dealer free oil change a few weeks ago and you're supposed to change oil after the bg service so now I have to pay to change it again after only 800 miles. Oh well. Next year I'll be able to do them both at the same time since I'll be done with the dealer changes and will be going to my side mechanic by then.

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Spurshot · April 14, 2015

That's definitely simplistic...

The good thing is that with the AFE Stage II, is that I will not feel bad about tapping the elbow. I'm guessing that the spare battery tray was put there just for a meth/alky tank. Been looking into Devil's Own kits.

...and effective.

We did this on turbocharged engines running 30+ psi and controlled the pump using a oil pressure switch placed in the intake manifold. When the boost came up to 3-4 psi, the switch tripped and water injection started.

For just occasionally cleaning an engine, a manually controlled injection system you can engage when under load is all that is needed. If you're trying to solve a detonation issue, that's different.

440hsp · April 14, 2015

Yeah, I'm running a devils own water/ meth kit on my 450whp srt4. When we took the motor apart my intake was clean enough to eat off of. Great for detonation when raising the afr, adding more timing and turning the wick up.

Edited April 14, 2015 by 440hsp

14'SilveradoLT · April 14, 2015

...and effective.

We did this on turbocharged engines running 30+ psi and controlled the pump using a oil pressure switch placed in the intake manifold. When the boost came up to 3-4 psi, the switch tripped and water injection started.

For just occasionally cleaning an engine, a manually controlled injection system you can engage when under load is all that is needed. If you're trying to solve a detonation issue, that's different.

I'm hoping that down the road I'll have a reason to have a detonation issue, lol. That's a long long way off though.

Silverado-Hareek · April 15, 2015

The good news: I did the BG induction service yesterday and the truck seems to be running great afterwards, no issues so far *knocks on wood*

The bad news: I could not get before and after pictures of the valves. The way the intake is designed on these engines, you can't get the borescope in there because of all the bends and turns. We would have had to remove the intake manifold to see the valves and I wasn't about to do that on an engine with only 15k miles.

So the catch can debate will have to rage on. I will say I have not really noticed much of an improvement with the truck as others have reported. It honestly wasn't really running bad before I did the service, I just wanted to get in before 15k miles to take advantage of BG's warranty. So if guys without catch cans are noting an improvement in performance after the service and I'm not noticing much of anything, I'd argue that's evidence in favor of the catch can doing what people say it should be doing....keeping the valves clean. I only had 11,500 miles on the truck when I installed the catch can so there wasn't much time for a lot of build-up to happen and dramatically affect performance, although I don't doubt that some buildup did occur and the service yesterday took care of it.

I'm going to post this in the catch can thread as well.

EDIT: Forgot to add it was about $78 in materials and $117 in labor for the BG service so $195 total. You have to get your oil changed as well afterwards so factor that into the total if you're considering doing this service.

Edited April 15, 2015 by Silverado-Hareek

20L8TSierra24 · August 14, 2015

Been really curious about this... I'm installing my catch can this evening and I think I'm going to run up to the auto parts store and buy a can of CRC for good luck. My truck has 18k on it and I'm better off late than never with the can and intake cleaner. I'm going on a 2500 mile trip next week and just bought my oil but I'm going to clean out the intake before I do the oil.

20L8TSierra24 · August 15, 2015

Might be a dumb question but here it goes... Instead of putting the CRC valve cleaner in the front of the intake, can I spray it in the outlet hose coming from the catch can?

Spurshot · August 15, 2015

Might be a dumb question but here it goes... Instead of putting the CRC valve cleaner in the front of the intake, can I spray it in the outlet hose coming from the catch can?

I don't quite understand which hose you mean. Can you be more specific? Do you mean squirt it in the PCV valve where it goes into the intake manifold? I would think it would be fine, if you disconnect the PCV valve, seal around the spray can nozzle so you don't have a large vacuum leak. Maybe a small cork with a hole in the middle for the spray nozzle straw.

Edited August 15, 2015 by spurshot

20L8TSierra24 · August 15, 2015

I don't quite understand which hose you mean. Can you be more specific? Do you mean squirt it in the PCV valve where it goes into the intake manifold? I would think it would be fine, if you disconnect the PCV valve, seal around the spray can nozzle so you don't have a large vacuum leak. Maybe a small cork with a hole in the middle for the spray nozzle straw.

Exactly. I'm sorry if it might have been confusing.

Panik · August 15, 2015

I don't quite understand which hose you mean. Can you be more specific? Do you mean squirt it in the PCV valve where it goes into the intake manifold? I would think it would be fine, if you disconnect the PCV valve, seal around the spray can nozzle so you don't have a large vacuum leak. Maybe a small cork with a hole in the middle for the spray nozzle straw.

Quick, dumb newbie related question. Most of the catch can I am seeing are sealed systems that require unscrewing and draining on a regularly basis. Are they designed as a closed system on purpose to prevent vacuum leak issues, or is it possible to have an open system?

As an extreme example, would it be possible to have a catch can system with a bottom drain that just remained open all of the time. And if so would it require one way valves on the intake and outlet lines? (I'm in no way advocating polluting by letting oil drip onto the road, I'm just trying to be simplistic for the sake of my question and understanding.

RobZ71LM7 · August 16, 2015

Quick, dumb newbie related question. Most of the catch can I am seeing are sealed systems that require unscrewing and draining on a regularly basis. Are they designed as a closed system on purpose to prevent vacuum leak issues, or is it possible to have an open system?

As an extreme example, would it be possible to have a catch can system with a bottom drain that just remained open all of the time. And if so would it require one way valves on the intake and outlet lines? (I'm in no way advocating polluting by letting oil drip onto the road, I'm just trying to be simplistic for the sake of my question and understanding.

That would be called a vacuum leak.