Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I did the seafoam cleaning and no change in mpg, as I wasn't expecting any. I'm still getting a whopping 13.7

Posted

I did the seafoam cleaning and no change in mpg, as I wasn't expecting any. I'm still getting a whopping 13.7

My update so far is the same. I'm not getting as low as 13.7, but a good piece of mind.

Posted

I did this procedure with Seafoam this past weekend on my wife's 2014 5.3 with 9400 miles as preventative maintenance. We have noticed no difference in mileage or performance but I did not expect any with only 9400 miles on the truck.

Posted

I don't see any advantage of seafoam over a mix of water and acetone/methanol. When I ran extreme boost turbocharged engines, I ran a mix of water and acetone/methanol. The internals were clean as a whistle. I really don't trust seafoam because I don't know exactly what's in it. Their SDS doesn't reveal much more than it's some kind of petroleum product combined with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol). I've heard that it's mineral oil and alcohol. But I can't confirm it.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

 

No I did not. Did really feel like taking the intake manifold off again if you know what I mean.

 

 

Yes there was oil covering the inside of the intake.

 

 

I thought about doing something like this too but I think it might be pretty difficult. On the inside of the intake manifold, the runners aren't easily accessible because of a cylinder that starts at the throttle body and goes about half way back. Here is a picture from PickUPS in the "Oil Catch can?" thread showing the inside of his intake manifold. This is on a 4.3 but the 5.3 is similar. I don't want to discourage you from trying to get a camera down to the intake valves but just wanted to let you know that it might be tricky. If you get it to work let me know as I would be interested in getting one of those cameras then.

 

IMG_2402behindthrottle-bodynovalleyventt

 

 

Got the scope in. Playing ...

 

Snap_004_zpsqpvlimhu.jpg

 

Snap_006_zpscl7bse37.jpg

 

 

Got the scope in. Playing ... IQ is meh. Depth of field could be better.

 

Snap_004_zpsqpvlimhu.jpg

 

Snap_006_zpscl7bse37.jpg

Edited by spurshot
Posted (edited)

got this from the FAQ on the seafoam website take it for what it is worth......

I added a can of Sea Foam to about 12 gallons of gas in the tank of my 2002 Grand Marquis, then used ½ can of the spray in the intake. Now my car shows a “check engine” light that was not previously on. Did the Sea Foam somehow cause this? What should I do about it?

Jim’s answer:

Adding Sea Foam Spray Cleaner and Lube directly into the intake will, in some cases, trigger the “check engine” light due to misfires that occur while you’re spraying. The misfiring was only temporary, and you should be able to easily turn the light off by clearing the error code.

[Question asked by Tango Devin]

Unfortunately this is not the issue this time around, I have a bad catalytic converter. I just put 600km on and I had to keep resetting the check engine light. Having the dealership install a new cat tomorrow.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted

I just did the BG treatment at 16,500 miles. I can honestly say the truck runs smoother, has more power, and the mpgs seem to be up a lil. I'm ordering my catch can next week, and will probably do the BG treatment every 10,000 to 12,000 miles for as long as I own the truck

  • Like 1
Posted

I just did the BG treatment at 16,500 miles. I can honestly say the truck runs smoother, has more power, and the mpgs seem to be up a lil. I'm ordering my catch can next week, and will probably do the BG treatment every 10,000 to 12,000 miles for as long as I own the truck

Nice yeah I think I'm going to do it soon too. They'll warranty your engine if you stick with their maintenance plan so that says something about their product in my opinion that they'll stand behind it like that. I have a catch can now that I installed around 11k miles so I'm thinking having that with the BG service every year will really keep the engine functioning in top shape. They say even with a catch can you'll still get some valve build up just not as much so it makes sense to continue to clean the engine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Nice yeah I think I'm going to do it soon too. They'll warranty your engine if you stick with their maintenance plan so that says something about their product in my opinion that they'll stand behind it like that. I have a catch can now that I installed around 11k miles so I'm thinking having that with the BG service every year will really keep the engine functioning in top shape. They say even with a catch can you'll still get some valve build up just not as much so it makes sense to continue to clean the engine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I hear you. I will definitely will be doin the same thing. Like I said, I could feel a difference after having it done. They sold me on it.

Posted (edited)

Has anyone tried the amsoil power foam. Does the same thing but it foams up when you spray. Youtube it. Debating on trying it

Edited by JC84
Posted

Nice yeah I think I'm going to do it soon too. They'll warranty your engine if you stick with their maintenance plan so that says something about their product in my opinion that they'll stand behind it like that. I have a catch can now that I installed around 11k miles so I'm thinking having that with the BG service every year will really keep the engine functioning in top shape. They say even with a catch can you'll still get some valve build up just not as much so it makes sense to continue to clean the engine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It'll be nice to see once those that have been using CCs for thousands of miles do a comparison with those without.Or, a comparison such as those who got a cleaning service see what it's like after the same amount of miles put on with a catch can as without one.

Posted

 

It'll be nice to see once those that have been using CCs for thousands of miles do a comparison with those without.Or, a comparison such as those who got a cleaning service see what it's like after the same amount of miles put on with a catch can as without one.

 

I plan to do this. I'm waiting for my mechanic to call me back to discuss everything. But basically I put my catch can on after 11,500 miles and I have 14,800 on the truck now. I plan to get my mechanic to borescope the engine before a BG induction service, borescope after he finishes, and then borescope it another year after about 15,000 miles when I go to do service #2. If catch cans do what people claim, the pictures of my valves in a year from now should be mostly clean compared to the picture of them before the BG service I'm about to do. I'll keep everyone posted. Sucks we all have to wait a year to find out though haha

Posted (edited)

I did the CRC GDI IVC treatment today with about 11,500 miles on the truck. I don't feel any real difference so maybe the valves weren't that bad. I made sure to follow the directions on the can so I know I did it right. I also did plenty of driving after the 1 hour head soak so I also know I did enough driving. If anything it gave me a piece of mind because I know it works from the comments on here. The can did say to do it every 10,000 miles, but I still may get a catch can in the future. If I do get a catch can I'll do the CRC GDI treatment before installing it.

 

By the way, mine came with a tag that said to send it in with the receipt and they'll send a $5 rebate. Not much, but will give a little bit of that money back for the cost of a stamp.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
Posted

I bought 2 cans yesterday. I just turned over 20k miles. Will have enough for the next 10k miles too.

Posted

I don't see any advantage of seafoam over a mix of water and acetone/methanol. When I ran extreme boost turbocharged engines, I ran a mix of water and acetone/methanol. The internals were clean as a whistle. I really don't trust seafoam because I don't know exactly what's in it. Their SDS doesn't reveal much more than it's some kind of petroleum product combined with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol). I've heard that it's mineral oil and alcohol. But I can't confirm it.

That's why I'm working building a meth/alky kit in the next few months. I figure it and the catch can will be great with a future tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 843 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...