Trailer Police Wanted!!

nvrnuf4me · June 10, 2015

Ok, so I would rather admit ignorance than put people, or my family, in harms way. My wife and I are begining the adventure of shopping for a travel trailer and I need help understanding how to figure out all of the weights. GVW, GCVW, Trailer GVWR, Truck GVWR, GCVWR, etc, etc, etc. Although I know what the acronyms mean, and know how to figure most of them out, I want to make darn sure I am within the limits of my truck and do not want my wife to pcik something out I cannot tow and have to tell her no. So, knowing up front is the goal here.

Current set up, 2014 Silvy CC, SB, 2wd, 3.42

I would really appreciate if someone out there would be kind enough to review my numbers to 1) ensure I am calcualting correctly and 2) make sure we will be within the limtations of the truck.

I have not scaled the truck and am guessing (albeit compared to scale slips seen on this forum) that the truck weighs approximately 5300, between my wife and I, the dog another 460, crap in the truck and WD w/ sway control hitch another 280. So, I figure the truck will be at 6040 loaded for a trip.

Then, subrtract the 6040 from the 7200 on the sticker in the jamb and that leaves 1160.

The trailer my wife has picked out has a useless dry weight rating (on the vendor's website) of 7902 and a dry hitch weight of 793.

If I am figuring this correctly,and this what I would like everyone's help with, based on the numbers above, I still have 367 left on the hitch weight to cover the two batteries and full propane tanks.

And, not knowing what the actual max trailer weight rating is since there are multiple manuals out there with different numbers, I chose to go with the lowest I found, which I believe is 9200 for my truck's set up. Again, based on the figureas above, I still have 1298 left in the trailer rating for gear, food, myself when the wife kicks me out of the truck on a long road trip.

So, the above is how I understand how to figure all of this out and would really, really appreciate someone double checking my numbers, correcting where they feel I am wrong, and at least explain to me whether or not I am comprehending how to choose a travel trailer that my truck can safely pull.

nards444 · June 10, 2015

To be honest payload is your biggest limiting factor, and figuring out payload will tell you what you can buy and cant buy. Find your payload and start subtracting. Your tongue weight of the trailer needs to be known which is usually 10% of the overall weight of the trailer. Youd have to look it up but your payload is probably around 1600-1800 for your truck. Minus 700-800 for tonugue weight, 200lbs of hitching, adult male 200, female 150, two kids 200lbs. right there you are at 1500lbs or so. So really leaves you being able to put about a 24pack in the truck thats it.

Also keep in mind with travel trailers, from what I have read the average camper has roughly 2,000lbs of gear, food, clothes, etc in it. So if your looking at a trailer that weighs 9k lbs and think its under your ratings, it probably will not be after you load it.

Actually after looking 2015 numbers show your models payload at 1710 and max trailer weght of 9400.

If your going by the numbers I would not want to buy any travel trailer that weighed over 7k dry, and probably would be looking at something in the 5-6k range.

You got a 8k lb trailer picked out. Thats 800 tongue, plus what you estimate for body weights and such puts you about 150lbs below payload capacity. An 8000lb trailer with 50 gallons of water at 400lbs, full propane, some food clothes is probably close to 9000lbs. Then you got the lights, was the awning added into the dry weight?, grills, chairs, tvs, etc etc. I would bet you would be over your weight pretty easily.

sahls01gmc · June 10, 2015

You're pushing your limits, but you are at least aware of what you are doing. Can't say the same for most other people....

I still think you either need a bigger truck, or smaller trailer.

ewbldavis · June 10, 2015

Lookup your trailer online for at least a rough GVWR. Then you will know allowance for gear.

I agree - if dry weight is 7900#, you need a 2500.

We have a 34' TT that is 6858# dry (empty). The trailer's GVWR is 9500#. I am allowing around 1500# for gear, etc. in the trailer, which puts a "wet" loaded weight of 8300-8400#. The tow rating on my 1500 5.3L/3.42 is 9200# according to GMC, with a GCWR of 15K.

We are within our tow limit, payload limit, and GCWR limit. We do, however, need to be mindful of how much crap we load as technically, we can load trailer heavier than tow rating (although almost 3000# of gear is a stretch - even for my wife!)

Here is a link to some good info. http://www.gmc.com/sierra-1500-pickup-truck/features-specs/options.html

Oh, and the 24-pack should be in the fridge Nards!

calgator73 · June 10, 2015

I agree with the other people in respect to payload being your limiting factor. One sure fire way to get a more accurate picture on TW and over all trailer weight is to call the manufacturer in IN. Tell them what you want and what options and they should be able to provide a more accurate figure. Most TTs have storage up front. This will greatly increase your TW.

Use this link to build your truck:

http://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/proddesc.jsp?year=2014&regionID=1&divisionID=2&type=0&vehicleID=14683&section=modeloptionweight&page=&butID=21

It will be very close to your actual payload sticker but more importantly will give you actual axle loading as equipped.

My biggest reason for getting rid of the 1500 was ride quality. I was "safe" but the ride quality sucked...even after maxing out the WDH and swapping to bilsteins.

ember1205 · June 10, 2015

I like the guidance you've already gotten here pertaining to "bigger truck or smaller trailer". The single most important thing to remember is that your insurance will NOT cover you if you're involved in an accident and you're outside of your max ratings. All it will take is one person to see that you were towing and ask "was that trailer too big for that truck?" and you could lose everything of material value - even if the accident wasn't "your fault".

Besides... If she's absolutely set on the bigger trailer, she'll have to 'let' you get the bigger truck.

Jon A · June 10, 2015

The single most important thing to remember is that your insurance will NOT cover you if you're involved in an accident and you're outside of your max ratings. All it will take is one person to see that you were towing and ask "was that trailer too big for that truck?" and you could lose everything of material value - even if the accident wasn't "your fault".

Another completely false internet myth. Call your insurance company. Read your policy. This is complete BS.

You can drink an entire case of beer, drive down the wrong side of the freeway at 100 MPH and kill a dozen people and your insurance company WILL cover you. They’ll drop your policy after that (you won’t need it anyway because you’ll be in jail) but they will cover you for that accident. That’s what you’re paying them for.

The idea that being over your tow/payload rating offers the insurance companies some sort of loophole to get out of covering you is completely false. Read your policy—most likely you’ll find the words “tow rating” and “payload” don’t even appear in them.

nvrnuf4me · June 10, 2015

Thanks to everyone for their assistance. I mainly wanted to know that I was correctly calculating the weights, and it would appear so. I have already warned the wife that if she wants a bigger trailer, than I get a bigger truck. I was informed that a smaller trailer would do just fine. We will be looking very closely at the under 7k mark. Thanks again to eveyone who commented, it is appreciated.

j-ten-ner · June 11, 2015

...I have already warned the wife that if she wants a bigger trailer, than I get a bigger truck. I was informed that a smaller trailer would do just fine...

loooool

You made my day.

That's hilarious .

so long

j-ten-ner

therink · June 11, 2015

I am a veteran rv'r and have towed many with numerous trucks. This is simple. With 1100 payload left (assuming that nothing more will go into the bed when towing), Subtract 100lbs for WD hitch, leaving 1000 lbs for tongue weight.

The tongue on travel trailers will weigh an average of 13 percent of the loaded weight of the trailer. This means you should not tow a travel trailer with gvwr or weighing more than 7500. This will max out the truck though and towing comfort and sway will likely be noticeable.

Also, do you have P rated tires? If so, consider upgrading to E rated and run the rears at 80 psi. Most P rated truck tires are too soft and will promote sway.

If it were me, I would stick with loaded trailer weighing under 6500 or get an HD.

I have bought and towed more than my truck was designed and had buyers remorse.

Pat Grant · June 11, 2015

The trailer is 5,000# dry, 5,300# pictured (800# tongue) with a 10,000# max (which I would never attempt with this truck). The max I will configure it is around 6,000# with only my lard ass in the truck (225#). It has the Draw-Tite 1,200# weight distribution hitch with sway control. It pulls like a dream and rides really well, but the height of the trailer is like dragging a parachute. This is as much as I would feel comfortable pulling with this truck. This trailer is getting ready to go on one last 1,400 mile trip then I'm sending it down the road in exchange for an 18' light weight TT (no need for a "toy hauler" anymore. I pulled this trailer on some shorter trips through the hills of Missouri with my old 2,000 Silverado LS with the 5.3 and 3:42 and it's tongue was really hanging out pulling it.....