Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anybody know how many amps the 110V electrical outlets can handle? I'm wondering if I can run a Coleman air bed pump from one of these? Is it about the same as the 12V plug or more/less? I want to buy an air pump for camping, but I also want to be able to use it around the house, so 110V version is preferable it the truck can run it.

 

Thanks.

Posted

The alternating current (AC) accessory power outlet system consists of the accessory DC/AC power inverter module and the accessory power receptacle – 110 V AC. The accessory DC/AC power inverter module converts 12 V direct current (DC) battery power to 110 V at 60 Hertz (Hz) AC power to operate AC powered devices. The accessory DC/AC power inverter module provides up to 150 watts of power. The accessory power receptacle – 110 V AC provides the usual connection for AC powered devices.

 

Posted

The AC outlet is a joke. I plugged my Makita charger into it, and it tripped immediately. Why even put on in there in the first place?

 

You can plug the pump in and see if it trips.

Posted

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

Posted

Don't know the specs but can tell you I tried using my 400w invertor to plug in a pump for an air mattress and it cut out immediately. I doubt the factory 110v plug will allow you to run that pump.

Posted

So, it looks like the 120V pump runs at ~250 watts after the initial ~450 watt surge. That won't cut it. I guess I'm going with the 12V pump.

Posted

12.5 amps should be plenty for most household appliances, even a microwave or a small refrigerator. I'd imagine, though, that you want to pull this much amperage only with the alternator turning/engine running.

Posted

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

 

Maybe I'm wrong, but the outlet is 120v, correct? So wouldn't it be I = 150/120, or 1.25A?

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

This is 120v AC, not 12v DC....

  • Like 1
Posted

This is 120v AC, not 12v DC....

 

You are correct sir! :)

 

And on top of it from my experience with the outlet, it looks likes its a modified sine wave inverter and not a pure sine wave inverter. This means that there are certain things like some chargers will not be too happy on that modified sine wave.

Posted (edited)

Does anybody know how many amps the 110V electrical outlets can handle? I'm wondering if I can run a Coleman air bed pump from one of these? Is it about the same as the 12V plug or more/less? I want to buy an air pump for camping, but I also want to be able to use it around the house, so 110V version is preferable it the truck can run it.

 

Thanks.

 

You will be fine, I have done this many times with no issue.

 

truck.jpg

Edited by roadblock
  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted

Okay. Here's the equation:

 

P=VI (Power (watts) = Voltage (volts) x Current (amps))

 

With the numbers provided above, the available current (I, in amps)

should be...

 

I = 150/12 = 12.5 A

 

Yes, I am a physics nerd.

 

 

Nerd, maybe but correct, no.

 

Your formula is correct, but you solved for the 12V amperage and not the 110V amperage. Since the pump in question is a 110V device, it's THAT amperage that will dictate whether or not its current draw is too much.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • JW2024 and Others is this site for Oshawa built Trucks as well ? Thank You !
    • Thanks JR that would be great if you could do that !!! Do you have a link to where this was discussed before ? I cant seem to find it  Thank You Again !
    • Oil pump noise was discussed before.  I will try to remember to record a remote start later this morning. 
    • There are probably a few threads talking about fuel mileage but this one seemed to fit the stats I have seen based on my typical local driven route but with different outcomes based on different seasons/temperatures. I have a few hundred pounds of items that consistently ride on the truck at all times such as a bak flip cover, rubber bed mat, tools and extra fuel so I would be something over 8100 lb without me in the truck. All these examples are based on a 100 mile round trip to a town plus running around town so maybe 110 to 120 miles in total for a trip. Using regular fuel and I assume it always has some ethanol in it but don't know the percentage they blend in. Also speed wise I am going at 62 mph and non aggressive driving although less speed yet if its crappy winter condition roads. I am going by an initial reset of the computer generated fuel use numbers averaged over a couple of thousand miles or so for each weather/season so they may be more optimistic then actual hand calculated numbers. Basically this is painting a picture of doing the same drive but seasonal conditions and temperature being the major variable to the end result. Oh and although I am in Alberta Canada, I am converting it to miles per US gallon so there is no confusion.    So winter time it gets cold here, no real surprise there and the roads can be clear at times but also often have packed rough snow or are are driving through loose snow ( they do a poor job of plowing the highways ) and yes this includes the extra idle engine time due to trying not to freeze ones butt off. 12.7 mpg is what I was getting during the winter months on average.    Then during the spring when it was around the freezing point and the highways are clear of snow, I was getting around 14.25 mpg.   Summer time, I have been getting around 15.15 on average but certainly some of the trips showed quite a bit better fuel mileage, so much depended on how much or little I had driven around town and number of engine restarts after sitting for a while at each location. But stating a best fuel mileage trip to town pretending that is what the truck gets on average is fooling ones self for sure !.      As I said in a different post, I had driven a 645 mile trip over a couple of days stint to a different destination then these other daily to town examples above, and was done during the summer with nice weather and not bucking a head wind, also keeping at 62 mph and its a rolling landscape type highway drive ( this isn't southern Alberta or Saskatchewan flat lands ) Hand calculated fuel mileage in this case though and it came out to 17.65
    • On my wife's 2020 Blazer (~69000 miles), we started to notice the brakes pulsating at faster speeds. Typically around town you don't notice anything, but highway/interstate driving you will notice it. I decided to pull of the front tires and look at the brakes. I figured with the milage, the pads should be wearing out to their life span, but they actually looked decent. Still with "meat" on them. One pad has a ridge wearing in it, and that same rotor is showing the ridge too. That's not the concerning part...the other rotor appears to have a raised bump on it!  The picture make it look like a pimple! Very odd and strange! NOTE: These are the factory brakes and rotors.   I'm attaching pictures of the front brakes and what they look like ate ~69000 miles.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...