Jump to content

Let's talk about cleaning these beautiful trucks!


Recommended Posts

Posted

I normally go through the touch less automatic wash and finish with Turtle Wax Ice Detailer spray. For the inside, Meguiars Leather cleaner on the seats, arm rest and steering wheel, followed by Leather conditioner on the seats. In between that regiment, I use Turtle Wax Ice Interior a Detailer spray. I know there are way better products then Turtle Wax, but the Ice line is readily available at Wally World and won't empty your pocket, plus it's really easy to use. I can finish my truck start to finish in 30 minutes.

 

Sadly I haven't found any touchless automatic car washes around me. I have went through a automatic car was a few times, I know shame on me. I haven't noticed any scratches or swirls in the paint, but I'd prefer not to go through those any more. I think a hand wash looks much nicer anyways.

 

Do most people use microfiber towels for cleaning their windows and windshield on the inside?

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Leather conditioner is pointless on our seats as they have a coating on them. Maybe once they're really worn down it would be needed.

Posted

Here is my method for twice annual polish and wax on all my vehicles.

 

1. Wash truck with two bucket method mentioned already

2. Dry with microfibre towels and compressed air for all tough spots

3. Clay bar with detail spray or spray bottle with car wash and water (1:20 mixture)

4. Quick wash/rinse and dry as before

5. Tape off all plastic trim or parts you don't want to get polish and wax on

6. Apply preferred polish based on paint damage with Flex XC3401 and appropriate backing pad - do one body panel at a time. Step up abrasiveness of polish as necessary. Move to a finer polish to get the small stuff, and then a finishing polish for shine.

7. wipe off excess polish with microfibre

8. Admire handy work and check for swirls etc re-do step 6 if still present or continue if lazy and ready for beer

9. Apply wax or sealant of choice with Flex and proper wax backing pad - some waxes/sealants will have a "cure" time on panel

10. Remove glazed wax with microfibre cloth - use small micro brush to get all seams and around trim.

11. Peel off tape and inspect

12. Go buy flowers for wife as you've been in the garage for 8 hours

Posted

Need a hose fore sure. Even if some products mention you can wash it without water I Would rather hose off the dust and mud off instead of wiping it off. If I really want it to shine, I use FW1 after it's been properly rinsed. Use it mostly on my motorcycle as it does a great at shining and covers swirls and small scratches in clear coat. So the truck gets it few times a year to keep it like new. Any other time is just a bucket with soap.

.

Posted

I hear you, I try to stay away from the auto car washes with the brushes, luckily here most if not all are touchless. Since I live in an apartment to with no access to a hose, automatic or the coin wash is my main option. Another reason I like silver is it doesn't show dirt as much.

 

Sadly I haven't found any touchless automatic car washes around me. I have went through a automatic car was a few times, I know shame on me. I haven't noticed any scratches or swirls in the paint, but I'd prefer not to go through those any more. I think a hand wash looks much nicer anyways.Do most people use microfiber towels for cleaning their windows and windshield on the inside?

Posted

That's true, I personally like the feel of the seats after I put conditioner on then, they have a nice Shen andslight slick feel to them. Makes it easier sliding in and out of the seats, that and dust and particles brush right off.

 

 

Leather conditioner is pointless on our seats as they have a coating on them. Maybe once they're really worn down it would be needed.

Posted

I have a hand car wash that is a drive through for the wash and then you get directed to a lane for them to clean the interior and do the finishing details. It costs me $55 a month + tips. I can wash every day if I want to, so this is a killer deal. They have a one year package that I am seriously considering, which is an every better price than the monthly fee.

 

The staff knows me and know to fold in my mirrors with they are pre-washing. They also know I tip very well, so they really do a good job.

Posted

I dust mine off almost daily with a California duster and use a clean MF towel and Adam's detail solution to get any bugs off. If it gets rained on while sitting and is dry then I will just rinse with high pressure water from the car wash, if I had to drive in the rain then it will get soap and water from the car wash. I never use the brush on the truck and never go thru an automatic car wash. Then I dry and detail from there.

 

I clay bar the cars 3x a year, then spot polish anything that needs attention, then seal it and then wax it. All with Adam's products.

 

Interior I keep it dusted and vacuumed, pretty much stays immaculate all of the time. About once every 2-3 months I use Adams interior cleaner to wipe the dash and doors off and then I use the leather cleaner on the seats. As said using a leather conditioner is pointless since all GM leather has a clear top coat that wont allow it to soak in.

Posted

I would like to get in the habit of washing the truck once every two weeks. I have a garage at my place that me and my roommate share and a parking deck at work, so every two weeks would hopefully be enough. I've had the truck a little over three months and I'm ready to get a full deep clean on the truck and clean the interior really well.

 

I think I will look into clay barring it and polishing and waxing but this would be my first time doing those.

 

Any specific clay bar or spray I should look into? I've seen a lot of people recommend Adam's and Meguiars. I saw Meguiars has a clay bar kit with qwik detail spray and a MF towel. Also, is the liquid wax good or should I try something different?

Posted

Also, people with the nice chrome wheels, what do you usually use or do to keep those babies in tip top shape?

Posted

Chrome wheels= Water and a microfiber cloth then ring out cloth to dry lastly a clean paper towel. Always stays shinning like the truck.

Posted

Chrome wheels= Water and a microfiber cloth then ring out cloth to dry lastly a clean paper towel. Always stays shinning like the truck.

 

No wheel cleaner? Just wash them while washing your truck then after rinse and use MF cloth? Sounds easy enough!!

Posted

Hate to admit it, but I pick up my new black on black '15 CC A/T 6.2 truck on Thursday (had a '14 black/black AT 5.3 previous that was totaled in wreck) and I'll probably only wash "by hand" in my driveway (actually mostly w/ extendable brush) MAYBE once a month, other than that I tend to spray it off in the self wash bay w/ high pressure because it is just easier. When the weather is nice I'll follow up w/ Adams or Meguires detail spray/wax stuff and some tire dressing maybe couple times a month. When I had a vinyl tonneau 3-4 times a year I'd wipe it down w/ 303 aerospace. I don't put it in the garage EVER because its just too big, and its a truck and I'll use it as such, so cleaning it isn't a huge priority. I do have it waxed professionally twice a year minimum as well - in spring and right before winter. I clean the interior when it starts to bother me - Lexol is my favorite for the leather.

 

My vette on the other hand - whole other story, that b***h gets wax by my own hands!

 

It may sound silly, but I've always been super anal/ocd when it comes to my vehicles....because I typically had sport cars/sedans that I tried to double as DD duty, and that is just maddening. That's why I like having a truck - in my opinion its OK to let it get dirty and get some dings and scratches, but I keep it in top mechanical condition and all that.

Posted

That's what I do. Back in the day I would use all kinds of polishes and cleaners and spend hours making my vehicles look clean. Several years ago I just stopped buying stuff and you what? My vehicles are as clean and sharp as any around, and it doesn't take me all efn day. I run the sprayer over my cloth as I wipe and it gets my vehicles pretty clean. Then I wring out the cloth and start the drying process. Also I don't have the dreaded swirl marks either. I do wax from time to time though, just not very often. Also at least twice a month I do run my truck through a touchless car wash.

 

 

No wheel cleaner? Just wash them while washing your truck then after rinse and use MF cloth? Sounds easy enough!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...