Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great Looking truck man! Did you have to trim the studs at all for those 1.5 inch Bora spacers? Thinking of putting them on mine due to a good amount of UCA rubbing with my 33x12.50s.

 

Also, would you be able to post some pics down the side of the truck so I can see how far they stick out? I've got OEM GMC A/T wheels on mine, which i believe should be the same offset as your SLT wheels

I didn't need to trim anything. The stock wheels (including the ones you have) have pockets that will allow for them to fit without modifications. e531264e1db30e657b99e47ee2b82744.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I didn't need to trim anything. The stock wheels (including the ones you have) have pockets that will allow for them to fit without modifications. e531264e1db30e657b99e47ee2b82744.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Awesome, thanks! this helps out alot. I assume this picture is with the 1.5 inch right? (not that .25 inches makes much of a difference anyway)

Posted

Yes I only have ever used the 1.5" spacers on the rear.

Awesome, thanks! this helps out alot. I assume this picture is with the 1.5 inch right? (not that .25 inches makes much of a difference anyway)

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

3.5" Super Lift and 295/60R20 Cooper STT Pros.

4dcd073ee608cb7d86dc56f62f85f104.jpg453957df0b80f31876d2238570b46369.jpg71a573d61c3ddf6d1155f84837e21ba8.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love the truck. Just what I'm looking to do. 3.5 superlift with sst pro is what I want.

 

I have so many questions.

 

I have the same truck, but in the Silverado version...2017 Crew Cab,4x4, stamped steel control arms, is what I have.

 

So I have the chrome 20" LTZ wheels, they are +27 offset. What offset are your wheels?

 

Are you running any wheel spacers?

 

Any rubbing, anywhere?

 

According to Cooper, you're 295/60/20 tires spec out at 34.29 x 11.5 inches. I'm debating between those or the 295/55/20, which spec out at 33.07 x 12.3 inches

Or maybe even the 305/55/20 which is 33.5 x 12.4

I don't know what would look best, I like a wide tire but I'm concerned with the stamped steel control arms...any thoughts??? And don't want to run wheel spacers if I don't have to. But I must keep my factory wheels.

Also, do your tires actually measure out to the specs that Cooper lists on their website?

 

How's the ride on the 3.5 superlift?

Any firmer than stock, has it settled in better now???

 

How are the CV angles, Upper and lower ball joint angles. ( I know they give new UAC'S)... Any pictures of angles would be greatly appreciated.

 

Any other pictures of the truck would be great too, like to see how wide those tires look.

 

Wow, I know that's a lot, thank you for any information you can throw my way. Thanks.

Edited by 15_silverado
Posted

So I have the chrome 20" LTZ wheels, they are +27 offset. What offset are your wheels?

 

Are you running any wheel spacers?

 

Any rubbing, anywhere?

 

According to Cooper, you're 295/60/20 tires spec out at 34.29 x 11.5 inches. I'm debating between those or the 295/55/20, which spec out at 33.07 x 12.3 inches

Or maybe even the 305/55/20 which is 33.5 x 12.4

I don't know what would look best, I like a wide tire but I'm concerned with the stamped steel control arms...any thoughts??? And don't want to run wheel spacers if I don't have to. But I must keep my factory wheels.

Also, do your tires actually measure out to the specs that Cooper lists on their website?

 

How's the ride on the 3.5 superlift?

Any firmer than stock, has it settled in better now???

 

How are the CV angles, Upper and lower ball joint angles. ( I know they give new UAC'S)... Any pictures of angles would be greatly appreciated.

 

Any other pictures of the truck would be great too, like to see how wide those tires look.

 

Wow, I know that's a lot, thank you for any information you can throw my way. Thanks.

I would assume my 20" AT wheels are the same specs as yours are. People interchange them all of the time.

 

I run no spacers at all. I do get a little rub on the fender liners at full lock but zip tying them back solved most of it.

 

The tires measure out about 33.5" on the wheels and with that height programmed the speedo is right on. I had the 295/55/20s on my '14 and they measured about 32.5" and rubbed the sway bars a little. I think the taller tires look much better.

 

Ride is firmer then stock but I attribute that mostly to the LT tires and not the lift.

 

CV angles are not extreme but I don't have any pic of them specifically.

 

I think I answered everything but if not just let me know.

28e82811fa877c4be3b6779ffa6c5b6b.jpgb55d7ff45c95802b6c020adfd5cb8c4b.jpgf18202481e99f18b15465dcfe18a557c.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted

dfb02e42688fe3a96a6133de14656108.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, yours is gorgeous... I think you have the 4.5 zone lift... correct?

 

I just can't commit to that, too much money, have to cutt and can't go back, and mostly I'm not sure how long I'm going to keep the truck.

 

Those are the wheels I have and must keep.,So...

What size tires do you have?

What control arms?

Any wheel spacers?, ( i know the zone lift pushes the tires out some up front)

Any rubbing anywhere?

 

Thanks, again it's beautiful.

Posted

Yea, yours is gorgeous... I think you have the 4.5 zone lift... correct?

 

I just can't commit to that, too much money, have to cutt and can't go back, and mostly I'm not sure how long I'm going to keep the truck.

 

Those are the wheels I have and must keep.,So...

What size tires do you have?

What control arms?

Any wheel spacers?, ( i know the zone lift pushes the tires out some up front)

Any rubbing anywhere?

 

Thanks, again it's beautiful.

Yes, Zone 4.5". Stamped Steel control arms which actually caused those wheels not to work, so I had to buy cheap chrome wheels for winter mounted on 305/55 Toyo AT2s. In the summer I run 22x10 AFs on 33x12.5 Nittos. And I have 1.5" bora spacers.

Winter setup now:

b920e8354136591cc1ca3a435cb19b8a.jpg

 

Summer setup:

7e95c40809c261573b421db3e0612e68.jpg

And thank you!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes, Zone 4.5". Stamped Steel control arms which actually caused those wheels not to work, so I had to buy cheap chrome wheels for winter mounted on 305/55 Toyo AT2s. In the summer I run 22x10 AFs on 33x12.5 Nittos. And I have 1.5" bora spacers.

Winter setup now:

b920e8354136591cc1ca3a435cb19b8a.jpg

 

Summer setup:

7e95c40809c261573b421db3e0612e68.jpg

And thank you!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So do you know why exactly the stock chrome 20 LTZ wheels won't work with the zone lift. Is it the stamped steel control arms or just how the zone lift is made. Why wouldn't wheel spacers work to allow the stock 20's to work???

Posted

So do you know why exactly the stock chrome 20 LTZ wheels won't work with the zone lift. Is it the stamped steel control arms or just how the zone lift is made. Why wouldn't wheel spacers work to allow the stock 20's to work???

the best I was able to figure out was the design of the stamped steel control arms. They have a "nub" that sticks out in front of the ball joint that was just big enough to rub on the tire when I turned, possibly also caused by the width of the tire. You could definitely use spacers, but this was only my winter wheel setup so it was easier to just sell those for a cheap set of chrome wheels. You could also have bought aftermarket UCAs to solve the issue. Oddly enough I've seen 1 other Zone guy with stamped steel control arms with stock wheels and no spacers. There was absolutely no way to make it work without at least 1/2" spacers so I don't know how he did it. Possibly grinding that nub down. I was really bummed because I loved those wheels for winter

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

My old 2015 when it was on stock gmc 20s painted black with 305/55r20 on a 3.5 rcx lift attachicon.gifFullSizeRender.jpg

Black that is exactly what I am thinking about doing but gloss black 20's.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...