Jump to content

Thoughts About New Ram Trucks?


GMC-AT

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's fine for what is not a real truck either. A 5.3 Chev or 5.0 liter F150 regular cab isn't much different... and a Tremor would outrun it. I spend enough time at the local track to watch these trucks run real world and the Hemi Rams are always the slowest thing out there for the large engine trucks.

 

Sent from my potato

 

Regular cabs aren't real trucks? lol there goes your credibility.

 

The 5.7 will destroy the common V8 options on GM and Ford trucks. The 6.2 is probably a better motor but GM is continuing their stupid top trim only scheme for selling it. Until GM gets their head out of their ass and offers it across the line the 6.2 is not relevant to this discussion.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Regular cabs aren't real trucks? lol there goes your credibility.

 

The 5.7 will destroy the common V8 options on GM and Ford trucks. The 6.2 is probably a better motor but GM is continuing their stupid top trim only scheme for selling it. Until GM gets their head out of their ass and offers it across the line the 6.2 is not relevant to this discussion.

Credibility... lol... like you have any here. No a regular cab 6.5' bed pickup is not a real truck. It's a toy... period.

 

Sent from my potato

Posted

Credibility... lol... like you have any here. No a regular cab 6.5' bed pickup is not a real truck. It's a toy... period.

 

Sent from my potato

 

You do realize that prior to 15 or so years ago half ton crews didn't even exist?

 

 

And the majority of the crew buyers today don't even use them as trucks. As you said- it's a SUV with a bed.

 

So in your world, regular cabs are toys and crew cabs are just butch SUVs. Where does that leave us? The extended cab? lol

Posted

I think RAM made a good move with this generation of trucks (and the boxy design before that).

They look like a truck, they sound like a truck and they drive like a truck.

If I need a work horse one day I'd consider one of those.

 

post-107777-0-56937100-1444657317_thumb.jpg

 

They should have stick with the design idea instead of just "bloating" up the next generations.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

post-107777-0-56937100-1444657317_thumb.jpg

post-107777-0-56937100-1444657317_thumb.jpg

post-107777-0-56937100-1444657317_thumb.jpg

Posted

You do realize that prior to 15 or so years ago half ton crews didn't even exist?

 

 

And the majority of the crew buyers today don't even use them as trucks. As you said- it's a SUV with a bed.

 

So in your world, regular cabs are toys and crew cabs are just butch SUVs. Where does that leave us? The extended cab? lol

No you are correct. But you do realize that 2500 crews built 15 years ago or more has less legal capability than a new half ton right? Gm made oodles of 7200 gvwr 3/4 ton trucks that were built lighter duty than half tons now. It wasn't until they started badging an 8600 lb gvwr 3/4 ton in 01 as a half ton that they got in the game. I don't buy crew cabs basically... but with a 6.5' bed that Gm wouldn't build until this body style as an actual half ton they are kind of useless .. and most of the time my 6.5' bed is too small. Either way I like the length for stability towing a trailer.... You won't get that as a regular cab anymore unless you buy the 8 foot bed that is a capable truck nobody wants anymore.

 

Sent from my potato

Posted

Not all trucks are bought to tow… Some of us like the idea of safely putting stuff in the bed, instead of buying a trailer to haul stuff around… Not everyone needs to haul 9000lbs on a regular basis, and just because a truck can't tow 9000lbs, doesn't mean it's not a real truck.This notion of "they aren't real trucks" is just stupid…

 

It's a pretty simple formula for a truck, if it was built from factory with a large exposed place to put things, it's a real truck…

 

If towing is all that makes a truck then I guess the only real truck out there is a 3500 or bigger…

 

The lady down the road that has a little regular cab short box Ranger she uses to do the gardens around the house, has a real truck.

The family that has a crew cab 5" bed beside me, that uses it to haul the kids dirt bikes and camping gear, has a real truck.

My Extended cab short box, that I use to get reno material and take old material to the dump in, is a real truck.

None of these truck tow anything, so they must not be real trucks…

Posted

Heck, a new V6 is tow rated 7200 and a 95 5.7 chevy is rated 7500. And the new engine is quicker and faster!

 

Times change.

Posted

I just traded in my 13 reg cab ram with the 5.7 and the 355 rear it was a rocket it was much quicker than the 15 Silverado ltz with the 5.3 and towed like a dream .Now to why I didn't go with a ram when I needed a 4 door they come mostly with the 3.21 rear and a 8 speed lower tow rating and a lot of the people I know with the 8 speed have had issues with them needing multiple valve body replacements Also even though my truck was only 2 years old it had a lot of rust on the frame ram just paints the frame rails instead of undercoating them any scratch starts rusting immediately and I hate the dial shifter on the 15s.I wouldn't even consider the fords because I not sold on the aluminum body yet and turbos are great until the blow then bend over .I must admit as a life long mopar guy the chevy is growing on me

Posted

Honestly I am a GM fan boy when it comes to trucks and will continue to buy as long as the quality and features are on par or better than the rest. But honestly thr big these days are killing it with the new trucks and I would be proud to own any of them. Each truck has its draw backs but thats just life. For me I'd get a Ram with the diesel engine, Ford I would purchase a Eco-boost and make sure the truck had the panoramic sunroof. GM I have to have the 6.2L.

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Posted

Just go drive one. Bad and downright incorrect "advice" in the majority of posts made in this thread.

 

They have tighter steering, tighter brakes, and have very quick acceleration. You can get the 8 speed with 3.92 or 3.21 gears, and the tranny actually shifts well, unlike the confused GM 8 speed. My friend's 2014 with the 8 speed and 3.92s feels much quicker than my 6.2 Denali. His Ram is MUCH funner to drive.

 

Thats the good. The not so good is general ride quality. They ride stiff, the seats feel like a park bench, and I just can't get used to the steering wheel.

 

Interior of the Ram is more luxurious with more features. U connect is flaky. Keyless entry is a great feature (that I miss dearly).

 

I love the telescopic steering column and mag ride of my Denali. If the Ram had better seats, the GM steering wheel and column, and a better ride - I'd own one.

Posted

I like you have been a GM guy for years. In 2012 I bought my first Ram and in 2013 I bought my 2nd because I liked the updates and wanted 4wd. I unfortunately got a 6 speed and not the 8 speed otherwise I would still be driving it because I never any problems or issues with it except mpg, I averaged about 14.5. I was going to get a 2015 Ram sport but I decided to go back to GM and I told my wife yesterday I miss my Ram and I got a shut the F up look so there you go... I will be driving my 2015 Silverado for a little while.

Ram is supposed to have a complete update in 2017 so maybe I'll have look at them again then...

Posted

If I needed a 2500 or 3500, I'd seriously consider a RAM based on price vs GM and Ford.

 

Many people told me I could get a 1500 RAM much cheaper than a GM or Ford but, that really only seemed to hold up on the 'work truck' packages. With mid level trim and the options I wanted on a 4x4 crew cab with 6 1/2 foot box, pricing as pretty close between the three.

 

In the 1500, I like the GM look better and was able to get the configuration I wanted for a very good price. I know the RAM has more horsepower but its power I don't actually need. The RAM gets better fuel economy, either with the new Eco-Diesel or with the 5.7L and 8 speed transmission so I do wish for that but, its not enough of a difference that I'd trade for.

Posted

I bought a new Ram with the eco diesel and this was my first ram. Have been with GM all my life but wanted better pulling and fuel millage and I am very happy. It pulls my 5400 Lb enclosed trailer with ease as my 2010 5.3 struggled on hills. My fuel millage with my trailer behind is getting the same millage as my 5.3 was empty around the city.

 

BUT the Ram is ugly compared to the GM In my humble opinion. the ram also does not have blind side awareness like the GM has and that is much more important than a lot of the crap a new vehicle comes with like the adjustable peddles, The Ram also does not have power fold trailer mirrors and that in its self drives me nuts..

 

The four corner air suspension on the Ram is great and the only thing I wish I had that I don't is the Ram Box.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...