Jump to content

Am I ruining my new truck?


Recommended Posts

Posted

The dealer uses AC Delco synthetic blend 0W-20 standard. I paid $32 at my last "free" oil change to upgrade to full synthetic but I'm not sure of the brand of full synthetic. I feel like I've seen Mobile 1 signs hanging in the service department in the past.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

This is cool, I'll ask them to do this on my next oil change. I definitely go by time, when I took it in on Friday my oil life still said 41%. Sounds like everything will be fine, I just didn't want to kill my $50k truck.

The dealer uses AC Delco synthetic blend 0W-20 standard. I paid $32 at my last "free" oil change to upgrade to full synthetic but I'm not sure of the brand of full synthetic. I feel like I've seen Mobile 1 signs hanging in the service department in the past.

Posted

I have a 2 mile commute in my mustang. It has a 8 qt sump just like the Silverado/Sierra and it takes FOREVER to warm up. Like others have said, make sure you get it up to operating temperatures at least once a week or more if you can. This will burn of any condensation in the oil. You will be considered in "severe" operating conditions which means you need to change your oil more often. Do these 2 things and you will be good. I usually take the stanger out a few times a week on the highway so she can stretch her legs ;).

Posted

I couldn't imagine driving a truck around the SF area. I visit here for work and would feel super uncomfortable here...

 

Then again I saw a Coca Cola Semi barrel up Grant through China town the other day. That was a sight to see...

Posted

In the winter time, I would go out of your way to drive it a little more in the mornings.

 

This.....in the colder months, just drive an extra mile or two each way. Go the long way.

Posted

Do you think I should put one of those Moroso oil seperator cans in?

I have a 2 mile commute in my mustang. It has a 8 qt sump just like the Silverado/Sierra and it takes FOREVER to warm up. Like others have said, make sure you get it up to operating temperatures at least once a week or more if you can. This will burn of any condensation in the oil. You will be considered in "severe" operating conditions which means you need to change your oil more often. Do these 2 things and you will be good. I usually take the stanger out a few times a week on the highway so she can stretch her legs ;).

Posted

I havr to do a lot of quick 1 mile trips due to being on call at night dor work. I stick to full synthetic oil and make a couple longer drives every week to burn the moisture out the oil in the wintertime.

Posted

If its a lease don't worry about it, truck be long gone before any issues show. If your truck and that weight I wouldn't even blink an eye at that weight, just be sure to keep up on maint a little better.

Posted

I have a short 1.5 mile commute to work also. But I have different means of transportation to take advantage of; between a couple motorcycles on nice days or test vehicles from my work.

 

 

I always consider driving the bicycle to work since it is so close lol. But I can't seem to motivate myself at 6:30 am to hop on a bike and pedal to work in casual business attire.

Posted

I got to thinking if I have short drives to work everyday and don't drive that many miles period, and don't use the truck for towing or what trucks are meant for. I guess maybe I would rethink the purchase of a 40-50k truck just my opinion.

Posted

I got to thinking if I have short drives to work everyday and don't drive that many miles period, and don't use the truck for towing or what trucks are meant for. I guess maybe I would rethink the purchase of a 40-50k truck just my opinion.

 

Why? The same person can spend 40-50K on a loaded sedan or some other SUV to drive their short distance in style. Some people just prefer to spend that money on a truck.

Posted

The dealer probably gets oil delivered in bulk, but it'll meet the Dexos standard. But as others say, I'd go by time for oil changes and not distance or the oil life monitor.

Yes, they typically get it in drums (cheaper that way) and it is exactly the same Dexos spec GM oil they sell in quart containers at the parts counter.

Posted

EXACTLY! I look at my bicycle at 6:30am and laugh. I'm not riding that thing in dress clothes.

I have a short 1.5 mile commute to work also. But I have different means of transportation to take advantage of; between a couple motorcycles on nice days or test vehicles from my work.

 

 

I always consider driving the bicycle to work since it is so close lol. But I can't seem to motivate myself at 6:30 am to hop on a bike and pedal to work in casual business attire.

 

Possibly... If I didn't tow a tandem axle trailer and needed a truck bed to haul stuff I would have gone with an Audi Q5 suv or something. But then again I would have spent the same amount of money and still only drive a couple miles. Oh well :dunno:

I got to thinking if I have short drives to work everyday and don't drive that many miles period, and don't use the truck for towing or what trucks are meant for. I guess maybe I would rethink the purchase of a 40-50k truck just my opinion.

Posted

EXACTLY! I look at my bicycle at 6:30am and laugh. I'm not riding that thing in dress clothes.

 

Possibly... If I didn't tow a tandem axle trailer and needed a truck bed to haul stuff I would have gone with an Audi Q5 suv or something. But then again I would have spent the same amount of money and still only drive a couple miles. Oh well :dunno:

Yeah I don't know your situation. Always possible to have a hot car, Camaro, mustang, chally, and then an old truck to do work with.

Posted

EXACTLY! I look at my bicycle at 6:30am and laugh. I'm not riding that thing in dress clothes.

 

Possibly... If I didn't tow a tandem axle trailer and needed a truck bed to haul stuff I would have gone with an Audi Q5 suv or something. But then again I would have spent the same amount of money and still only drive a couple miles. Oh well :dunno:

 

 

Hey at least your located in beautiful California! Here in Kansas we have hot muggy summers, short falls, harsh winters, then right back to summer (where did spring go?) lol.

 

 

Why? The same person can spend 40-50K on a loaded sedan or some other SUV to drive their short distance in style. Some people just prefer to spend that money on a truck.

 

Well put. Why not have a full size truck that can do everything? I was looking at a Vette (2011 z06) of equiv. price as my truck. Sure, a young lad like myself would love the power and probably end up in jail, but it wasn't practical for a daily.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...