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Replacing Battery...


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Posted

This morning, I went to go to work and as I started the truck, the truck was idling, and then the gauges died, and at the same time, all the warning lights came on.

Then the gauges came back to life and all the warning lights went out.

This happened about 3 times before I got my cell phone out and started videoing it, and it slowly quit doing it and I drove to work with no problems.

Thinking that the stock Battery is now close to 6 years old, I think I will just replace it so I now I don't have any problems for several more years.

 

Anyone else have something like this happen? I have an 09 Silverado LT Extended Cab 5.3L w/4speed.

 

I will post a video to this thread when I get home tonight and can upload the video.

Posted

Ok, here is the video...

 

I put the parking brake on and off a couple of times, along with shifting it into drive and back to park, and they did not seem to cause the dash to act this way because it did it several times right after I let the ignition switch go and just sat there watching it.

 

I just put in a new battery this evening so I don't have any future problems. The battery had 70 months on it.

 

I will see if it does it again in the morning when I go to work.

 

 

Posted

I just replaced my battery on my 2013 Yukon Denali. I tried to start the vehicle, and just got one click. my DIC gave multiple error messages (i.e. Service Anti Theft System, Low Battery Start Vehicle (my personal favorite)). I had a new AC Delco "Gold" battery installed, and found that I did not lose any settings to the vehicle. What was interesting to note, is that my horn, lights and other peripherals worked.

 

I guess with all the electronic bullst associated with the Denali, the battery just gave up the ghost after 3 years.

 

I realize this answer does not address what your asking, I am only making you aware of the situation I went through.

Posted

Today, I figured since it was cold outside, I would video the starting of my truck to see if the gauges and dash lights go wacky.

 

I got in the truck and shut the door, inserted the key into the ignition and got my phone out.

 

As I was trying to open up the camera on the cell phone, I heard this ticking.

 

I looked at the dash and the gauges were jumping from below the "0" to level with the "0" erratically

 

The key was not even turned on yet.

 

I am wondering if this could be a short somewhere or if this could even kill my battery overnight?

 

I video'ed it and started the truck and the things go wacky like the video above.

 

Any suggestions?

 

I may have to leave it at the dealer a few days.

Posted

This morning, I go out with a flashlight, and didn't even touch the truck but looked through the window to see if the gauges were moving, and all was quiet.

 

So I hit the remote to unlock the doors, and the gauges started jumping around.

I opened the door and was banging on the dash to see if that had anything to do with it, which it did not.

 

I started the truck and of course it does the same thing for about 3 - 4 minutes and then everything works fine and no problems the rest of the drive to work. I don't expect it to do anything the rest of the day.

 

It seems that the truck being cold and first starting it up has something to do with it.

 

I know these types of problems are hard to diagnose and with just a short window of time in the morning to diagnose this, I am wondering if I should wait until something fails.

I would hate for it to short something out or cause a fire.

 

Posted

The battery on my wife's G6 had a bad cell, and it made the windows roll down by themselves, and the radio wouldn't turn on until the key was OUT of the ignition.

 

Odds are it's the battery, but check your grounds as well...as Dan has mentioned.

Posted

I had a new Delco 48PG battery installed on the 5th of Nov. right after this started happening and it didn't change anything.

 

Thursday evening, I loosened and checked the ground cable on the battery and also where it connects to the engine.

If it is a bad ground it could be anywhere other than those two places.

Posted

I would have your battery tested again. Most auto parts stores like auto zone, advance auto and Napa will test your battery with a digital tester that will test for voltage, amps, battery health and battery charge. Those type of testers give the most accurate assessment of your battery. Even though your battery maybe new, if it has a short inside or a bad cell, it could give you the symptoms you are having.

Posted

This suggestion is not vehicle specific. I have traced many issues like this to a bad engine to firewall ground. Electricity takes the path of least resistance to ground. If it's normal path is bad, it will take any path it can find often crossing up with other circuits. Add in the fact the electronics are so complex in these vehicles, it makes for a nightmare when troubleshooting.

Posted

I had a similar problem with my 02 Tahoe. In my case It turned out to be the ABS pump was continuosly running and killing the battery. When I charged the battery the Gauges would go crazy and the speakers would emit a poping sound.

Once I pulled the ABS fuse all was good. Installed a new ABS pump and all has been good for months now.

Posted

Here is an Update...

 

I talked to the dealer and they suggested replacing both the battery cables. Of course they want over $500.00 to do both of them.

 

I got a friend who suggested to do the negative cable first and then if the problem persisted to do the positive side. So I got him to buy me the negative cable at his cost of around $68.00, and then had another friend install it, which took about 25 min. and I gave him $40.00 for his time.

 

I will drive it and see how it reacts when it gets cold in the morning and see if that fixed the problem or not.

 

Our weather has been warm lately and this morning the low was only 62 degrees so the truck did not do its light show, but we are expecting colder weather by next week.

 

I will keep you posted.

Posted

Well, replacing the negative cable didn't fix the problem so I am now going to replace the positive side.

 

I ordered a positive battery cable from the dealer and gave the vin number to the parts guy and since they had one in stock, I went down to pick it up.

When they gave me the box and I went to look at the cable, there was no end to connect to the battery.

I asked the counter guy, where is the end that hooks up to the battery?

 

He said, "I don't know".

 

(now how could he not know?....seriously?)

 

I asked how does this hook up to the battery, and again he said he didn't know.

 

After discussing this he told me that a lot of vehicles now have more than one (1) positive battery cable...and my truck could have 2 or 3.

 

Well shouldn't the guy who I ordered the battery cable from in the first place have told me that the vehicle has several, and asked which one I needed, instead of just picking one of them?

 

They wanted to give me the one that goes along the firewall and doesn't even connect to the battery.

 

Of course they had to order the one that connects to the battery.

 

Shouldn't the counter people be smarter than the customer?

 

Posted

I would try a new dealership and new parts guy. Honestly, I would just bring your truck to a reputable independent mechanic also. The dealership is going to charge you too much and I don't know that your friend is going to be able to figure this problem out either. I still don't see how a battery cable could just all the sudden go bad. It is just a cable and has no moving parts. Because of that, I don't think replacing cables is going to do anything for you. To me it sounds like you have an alternator or battery problem.

 

Good Luck....

Posted

Update...

 

Well, changing the positive cable didn't do the trick either. The lights are still flashing.

 

I am going to have to take it to an independent shop and have them take a look at it.

 

I want to get it fixed before it burns out any part of the dash...provided that is not the problem.

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