higher friction brake pads for sucky OEM brakes

[M3eater]

I did a search, but didn't really see what I'm looking for.

 

I've had 1500 & 2500 suburbans forever (we're on our, umm ... 8th). The brakes have sucked on all of them. On the last three generations, you can hardly (or not at all) lock the tires up. I currently have a "new to me" 2007 Escalade ESV. This is our first of this generation/platform. The brakes are especially bad. High pedal effort and low braking torque (yes, all is fine and proper with the systems). If you don't see any problem with the brakes on these vehicles .... well, that 's OK and I don't mean any disrespect, but, but you have just never driven anything with good brakes.

 

I've thought about higher friction pads on the past ones, but this one really needs them. I am well versed in brakes and if our BMW performance brake supplier (I do BMW parts for a living) had pads for this, I'd use those.

 

The rub in looking for something specifically with higher friction is that the suppliers typically do not supply the values. I've seen a couple notes on some EBC numbers, but ......

 

So far, the EBC Yellow seems to be a potential choice. I did see one mention of them having a 0.5 friction coefficient. I've used EBC Green, on the track, in a light car and they had great friction (have seen rating of 0.45 or 0.48), but didn't last a whole day and killed the rotors. Understandably, this is a completely duifferent situation, so, for the moment, I'm centering on braking torque ... friction.

 

I don't care about rotors, and drilling/slotting, etc. does not improve brake friction. It just gives gasses an escape route if you happen to be getting the brakes hot enough for the pads to gas.

 

Sooo .... what have YOU found, in pads, that are specifically and noteably higher in friction.

 

Thanks for your input!

[RyanbabZ71]

I plan to go EBC on my truck when I need to change out

 

Hawk makes a good pad too and they have quite a few options

[brucelimerick]

I have an 01 sierra. Eats rear pads every year. I use aftermarket ceramic and they are ok. Less than half the cost of the GM ones that don't last. For some reason the rear passenger side wears out twice as fast so I have extra pairs to do those ones early. and then once the year is out pads and rotors. Fronts seem ok, I get a coupe to a few years out of them and still have the original rotors.

You are right about sucky brake performance. I used to think it was normal till I got a Hyundia Accent. Took a while to adjust my GM brake foot. My poor dog was wondering if I had forgotten how to drive!

[RyanbabZ71]

I found the mid grade raybestos to work well on my 2000. I did three rear brake changes and dealer did one under warranty by 89k miles. Never touched the front pads

 

 

Ryan

[Sir Dan]

Hmmm....comparing braking performance on a full sized truck/SUV to the likes of BMW or a Hyundai Accent? Interesting. OP mentions not being able to "lock up" his brakes at all. It's because of the ABS system which is required on all vehicles now. GM had trouble with the rear disc brakes on the GMT800s but compared with Ford or Dodge trucks, GM brakes are way better. Just look at the front wheels of any Ford F-150 and you'll see all the brake dust staining them.

[jcmd]

I used a Callahan brake pad & rotor set from Amazon all the way around. Combined with a fresh bleed, it stops on a dime. I highly suggest them!

[Gurrzt]

Hawk "HPS" pads will do the trick.

[dsmmace]

I've had great luck with Hawk HPS pads.

 

I'm surprised more people don't upgrade to stainless steel lines as well.

[Chevor]

I went with duralast gold SD pads. Brake better than ceramic. Downside is brake dust on wheels and will smell if brakes are used heavily.

[jcmd]

Hawk pads are good as well, I completely agree.

[M3eater]

Hawk HPS was my other potential. Wish I could view the cold and hot friction of these and the EBC Yellows.

 

As for "locking up" .... Yes, the idea of ABS is to keep the wheels from locking. However, on dry pavement, you can't even get into the ABS with a large tire (which is the same braking force as you would have to lock up the tires, hence the ABS coming on).

 

My 1st gen X5 brakes better with a 5,000 trailer with no brakes than this thing empty. Pretty much the same with all of the past Suburbans. The best one was the '01 3/4 ton with 8.1. The rotors are the biggest of any of the versions. Playing with various cheap and middle priced pads, I got it to be at least reasonable in braking. Had to tow the 10K boat a couple times without brakes, due to hydraulic issues while out on the road, and it at least felt moderately safe ..... as long as I was mindful of the issues involved with this extra weight and no brakes on it.

[M3eater]

Hmmm ... Hawk SD sounds interesting .....

[M3eater]

Found this with more searching. A couple plus inputs on the Yellows:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153844-ebc-brakes/

[Sass]

5,000 trailer with no brakes

 

Had to tow the 10K boat a couple times without brakes

 

No offence but I raced cars for years, pulled trailers all over the place, but I never and I mean never had to pull a trailer with no brakes much less a 10,000 LB trailer twice! Seriously if you think the brakes are that bad on these trucks maybe you should call a professional to move the boat and not risk your life or someone else.

 

Looks like EBC yellow or Hawk HPS should help. Try the Hawk HPS if you don't like brake dust.

[M3eater]

ordered Yellows .... let ya know what I think.