Oil Usage of the 5.3L / AFM

ckinneer · January 27, 2016

Oil consumption/disappearance 5.3L

2007 silverado 4wd 1500 Lt 5.3l here with 113,234 miles. I use very expensive full synthetic oil, with a high filtration filter and lucas new vehicle treatment (it quiets the lifter noise on startup) and using the on board oil change diagnostic I have to add approx. 4 quarts throughout the entire 100% to oil change needed a d my oil still looks really good with hardly any change in consistency, viscosity, and only a mild darkening of the oil. I don't beat on her but I will occasionally open her up to 5000rpm getting on the highway if needed. I have no leaks, the engine compartment could be eaten off of, and I have no mods; not even an unrestrictive air filter mod. It doesn't smoke but, I do sometimes get a code to replace the catalytic converter and anytime the outside Temps get warmer then about 35F, the check engine light comes on saying there's a large leak detected in the vaccuum/emissions fuel area. Any ideas on this guy's? It's been to the dealer multiple times where they have changed everything, and it still uses 3 to 4 quart per oil change, and still does the Che k engine light above 35f...

JoBo1943 · January 28, 2016

I've bought my super clean, extended cab, Z71, 54k mile, late bs 07 5.3L almost 3 years ago and the current mileage is 77K. The previous owner drove it 2 miles to work and back and the truck is still spotless.

Shortly after buying it I noticed a lifter tick at cold start up with 63% remaining oil life and changed it and no tick until it got down to 63% remaining again.

That's when I joined here and learned about the problems related to active fuel management.

I learned a long time ago that "injector cleaner" does not burn and ends up in the oil and is a very good slow but through engine cleaner. That's why they say only use 2 treatments, it dilutes the oil.

Knowing that tells me it has to go by the rings to get into the oil and that's a good thing for us owners of 5.3L with AFM. I use "Berryman's B-12", it's reasonably priced at Wal-Mart.

I used injector cleaner at every fill up keeping a very close eye on the oil condition and color. For 3 oil changes with very few miles it looked like sludge and was changed. But after the third change it remained very clean and so I discontinued using injector cleaner.

Since that I keep an ear out for lifter tick on startup and noticed like clock work the tick returns at about the same 63% remaining oil life that for me is at about 3000 miles and 6 months. In that time the oil level does not drop any or very little if it does.

I like the active fuel management and can only notice it by watching the "instant MPG screen".

My driving is about half city and half freeway towing a 3000# travel trailer.

this is only my third GM vehicle at 72 years old. The first was a 1959 Olds, second was a 1985 S-10 and I was impressed with the build and features of my Silverado. I can't begin to count how many other vehicles I've owned over the years.

Joe

Nanotech Environmental · January 28, 2016

I had a 2012 1500 Silverado 5.3. In the 43k miles I had it, it never lost, if any, a 1/4 quart of oil? AFM was never turned off either. Truck was 100% stock. Oil was changed every 3k with Dexos certified synthetic blend and AC Delco filters.

If you have receipts showing your use of conventional, and you need warranty engine repairs and they ask for receipts, and they indicate you are not using a Dexos equivalent oil you do put your self at risk of voiding your powertrain warranty.

I know that these issues often get discussed to death, but it marvels me at how many folks are still throwing away good oil after only 3k miles in a modern car/truck. Pennzoil has done a great job of convincing people to do this, even though that practice is a pure waste in modern vehicles.

In a 1960's/70's era car, it made sense because carbureted cars never burned the entire combustion charge, which allowed a lot of oil contamination. Nor were the tolerances, or materials in the engines very good compared to todays engines, which also wore out easier and allowed a lot of oil contamination past the pistons/rings. Also, modern oils are much superior to those of 30-40+ years ago, especially the good synthetics, such as Mobil 1; they just don't break down, or deteriorate like old conventional oils. In fact the recommended oil change cycle reflects the limitations of the stock filter system, rather than the capabilities of the synthetic oil.

Modern engines such as the modern line of GM V8's can easily go 8-10k miles between oil changes, without any adverse affects whatsoever, for many hundreds of thousands of miles. This is why the manual states these intervals.

If you use a bypass 1micron filtration system, such those made by Amsoil, you can go much, much longer between changes on good synthetic oil than what the manual recommends, with no adverse effects.

To each their own. If a person wants to waste money, that's their choice. But there's no logical reason behind it........

newdude · January 28, 2016

I know that these issues often get discussed to death, but it marvels me at how many folks are still throwing away good oil after only 3k miles in a modern car/truck. Pennzoil has done a great job of convincing people to do this, even though that practice is a pure waste in modern vehicles.

In a 1960's/70's era car, it made sense because carbureted cars never burned the entire combustion charge, which allowed a lot of oil contamination. Nor were the tolerances, or materials in the engines very good compared to todays engines, which also wore out easier and allowed a lot of oil contamination past the pistons/rings. Also, modern oils are much superior to those of 30-40+ years ago, especially the good synthetics, such as Mobil 1; they just don't break down, or deteriorate like old conventional oils. In fact the recommended oil change cycle reflects the limitations of the stock filter system, rather than the capabilities of the synthetic oil.

Modern engines such as the modern line of GM V8's can easily go 8-10k miles between oil changes, without any adverse affects whatsoever, for many hundreds of thousands of miles. This is why the manual states these intervals.

If you use a bypass 1micron filtration system, such those made by Amsoil, you can go much, much longer between changes on good synthetic oil than what the manual recommends, with no adverse effects.

To each their own. If a person wants to waste money, that's their choice. But there's no logical reason behind it........

When you see camshaft actuator solenoids coming out because they are plugged, turbos failing because the oil feed and returns are plugged, cam actuators failing, etc. it makes you second guess the OEM's guidelines of following the OLM. Every one of those parts I listed I've had seen them all gummed and plugged up. Every car that had an issue with those parts, were all OLM followed or beyond. We've seen cam solenoids on 2013 and 2014 cars, with new engines and 0W2oil (Chevy Malibu with the 2.5). People go 6-8k, heck 10k miles, and they are the ones we see the issues with almost all the time. The 3-5k OCI customers? More or less trouble free.

Nanotech Environmental · January 29, 2016

When you see camshaft actuator solenoids coming out because they are plugged, turbos failing because the oil feed and returns are plugged, cam actuators failing, etc. it makes you second guess the OEM's guidelines of following the OLM. Every one of those parts I listed I've had seen them all gummed and plugged up. Every car that had an issue with those parts, were all OLM followed or beyond. We've seen cam solenoids on 2013 and 2014 cars, with new engines and 0W2oil (Chevy Malibu with the 2.5). People go 6-8k, heck 10k miles, and they are the ones we see the issues with almost all the time. The 3-5k OCI customers? More or less trouble free.

Anecdotal evidence/experience for sure, but not necessarily demonstrative of what the true causes are in those cases. Owners always report perfect adherence to maintenance when something goes wrong, especially if it's just out of warranty.

I used to have an older VW Turbo diesel that I ran oil for 30,000 miles between full changes(Delvac) and just changed the filter every 10,000. Car had almost 300k on it when I sold it, still running as good as ever.

My 2006 5.3 gets changed when the OLM goes off. Since new. About 175k on it now. No lost oil between changes. Mobil1 5w30 since new.

JoBo1943 · January 29, 2016

It boils down to usage and climate and we have winter in Ohio.

Before retiring I drove 35k miles a year easily and went 10k between changes on many various VW diesels.

But now I'm retired and my trips are short and on most the engine doesn't get to normal operating temperature.

So I change it spring and fall and it works out to 3k miles.

And as I mentioned I get a "tick" with 63% oil usage remaining so it gets clean oil. 10k changes are good for some but not others.

I listen when the engine talks to me.

Wasting money I don't think so compared to wasting a cam shaft and lifters. I suspect buying oil every 3k is cheaper in the long run.

BlackZ71Silverado · January 29, 2016

Thanks Bowtie2,

Sorry to hear you got one of the bad engines. I agree its some problem in motor assembly that they haven't figured out or are not telling anyone.

No problems since the rebuild, how many miles now?

I have put about 1500 miles on my truck since purchasing it, city, freeway and mountain driving. Pulling grades, stop and go, and sustained high speed. I have used it in manual and drive with the AFM working. No oil use so far.

GM has not kept the oil usage a secret by any means. They've pretty much told everybody by releasing a TSB that included the procedure they use to fix the issue. The fix was a newely designed valve cover to be installed with some sort of deflection device that stops the oil usage.

Here You Go :

#10-06-01-008G:

Engine Oil Consumption on Aluminum

Block/Iron Block Engines with Active Fuel Management (AFM) (Install AFM Oil Deflector and Clean Carbon from Cylinder and/or Install Updated Valve Cover) (Jan 3 2013)

Subject: Engine Oil Consumption on Aluminum Block/Iron Block Engines with

Active Fuel Management (AFM) (Install AFM Oil Deflector and Clean

Carbon from Cylinder and/or Install Updated Valve Cover)

Models: 2007-2011

Cadillac Escalade Models

2007-2011

Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado 1500, Suburban, Tahoe

2010-2011

Chevrolet Camaro

2007-2011

GMC Sierra 1500, Sierra Denali, Yukon Models

2008-2009

Pontiac G8 GT

Built Prior to February 1, 2011 (Updated Valve Cover) and October 2010 (AFM

Shield)

Equipped with Any of the Following Engines:

– Aluminum Block V8 Engine with Active Fuel Management (AFM) (RPOs L94, LZ1,

L99, LC9, LH6, L76, LFA, L92)

– Iron Block V8 Engine with Active Fuel Management (AFM) (RPOs LMG, LY5)

– Hybrid Engine (RPO LFA – Only Applies to Hybrid Models Built July 7, 2009 February

1, 2011 – Prior Builds Not Cast For AFM Valve)

Attention: This bulletin does not apply to the Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer and

GMC Envoy equipped with LH6 due to a different design oil pan and AFM

pressure relief valve.

This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate

Bulletin Number 10-06-01-008F

(Section 06 – Engine/Propulsion System).

#100601008G.pdf

I hope you do not end up with any oil usage issues with your newely purchased truck but if you do, there is a fix for it so you will not be out of luck. I guess it depends on the trucks warranty status if you would have to pay to have the upgrade done or not, don't really know how GM determines those type of things because I never had to deal with that.

ckinneer · January 29, 2016

It all boils down to the condition of the oil after 3000 miles for me.. If the oil is still see through and doesn't have any noticeable issues, its stays in and gets checked at 5000... My lifter tick comes only when I Park it on an incline greater than 10 to 15 degrees from level and more so the closer to the oil change time or if it's a quart low +. If I use regular non synthetic oil I notice the tick on every startup at any degree of incline right after the oil change, so nothing but full synthetic is what goes in her always..

diyer2 · January 30, 2016

Thanks BlackZ71Sil.

I hope I have no issues only time will tell.

I will stick to 3k for oil changes because it's what I like.

Yes things are different than 20 plus years ago with the advance in technology, but I will add this.

I knew a fleet maintenance manager that said change oil every 200 gallons of fuel not mileage.

We all have our ways of doing things.

BlackZ71Silverado · January 30, 2016

Nothing wrong with sticking to the old 3,000mile changes, it's not really necessary but it will not hurt to do it more frequently. Just be sure to keep an eye on your oil level between changes and if you happen to notice any loss, have it looked at right away.

That truck shoudl serve you well and you should not expect to have any issues....Enjoy it!

ckinneer · January 31, 2016

Thank you black z71 silverado, for posting that. Since I have bought an extended warranty to 200,000 miles I'm dropping it off at the Chevy garage I use to have it done.. Maybe I can stop buying so much extra oil!! " thanks again!!

Nanotech Environmental · February 1, 2016

Nothing wrong with sticking to the old 3,000mile changes, it's not really necessary but it will not hurt to do it more frequently. Just be sure to keep an eye on your oil level between changes and if you happen to notice any loss, have it looked at right away.

That truck shoudl serve you well and you should not expect to have any issues....Enjoy it!

This is the argument that guys use, but what they are really doing is creating a way to fool themselves. Many also use the argument that replacement engines, or engine parts are expensive. Once you actually do the math, you find that is a lie as well, comparatively speaking.

All these modern GM v8 engines have a realistic life expected span of at least 300 k miles when used normally. That's 100 oil changes for you high frequency guys. At $40 a pop for good full synthetic, that's $4000 in oil changes. Probably a lot more for you guys paying expensive dealers to do it for you; maybe as much as $6000, or more over the 300k life of the vehicle. This doesn't include all the extra personal time you have to invest in this.

Say an hour per change - 100 hours @ how much per hour do, or did you earn?

Now compare that to the vehicle done every 8000 miles;

Total oil changes 37.5

Total cost at $40 each is $1500, or $2250 @ $60 plus only 37.5 hours of your personal time.

The 3000 mile guy has now overspent between $2500 and $3750. Plus 62.5 hours of personal time @ ?$/Hr. That's a replacement engine right there.

Jus' sayin. The math doesn't lie.

To those who might argue that they never keep a vehicle that long, it doesn't matter. The math rolls over into every vehicle you own & keeps adding up. Over a lifetime of driving, many folks are probably spending as much as $10,000 or $15,000 on un necessary oil changes. Great for the company's that facilitate that, but no benefit to the consumer.